First tip the sled on its side



Take out the cover bolts and remove the cover



Loosen the jam nut on tensioner bolt and remove the chain tensioner inside the case. It just slips right out.



Remove cotter pin



Squeeze the brake handle and remove the top gear nut.



While keeping the brake on, remove the lower gear BOLT.



Remove the gears and chain. It should slide right out.



Heres a cool tool, its a sucker upper. They are fairly cheap and well worth it.



Take out the brake caliper bolts.



Move the caliper out of the way.



Take out the bolts that mount the case to the sled



It might take a little wiggling and twisting, maybe even a little prying, and the case will come out.



Use a set of snap ring pliers to remove the bearing retaining clip. It's the same thing for both bearings.



Turn over the case. Use a screw driver that is a little bit bigger than the inner race on bearing and tap them out.

The next part will cover the process of removing the seals and installing new seals and bearings and what to do and check for when installing the case back in the sled.



Use a screw driver on the inside of the seal and tap it out. Move driver around so as not to force seal out in an uneven way.



OK..installing seals 101...use an old bearing that has been ground down. You want to grind the outer race of bearing so it is smaller in diameter than the inside of the case. That way when ya use it to install the new bearings, the "bearing tool" wont get stuck. I use the old bearing on top of the seal. This will prevent damaging the new seal AND help ensure the seal go's in straight.



Thats how it looks with seals installed.



OK... bearing installation 101.... Place the new bearing in the hole place the bearing installing tool. (IE.ground old bearing) On top use a wooden or rubber mallet to drive the it into place.



Replace the snap rings and TA-DA/WHA-LA, the new bearings and seals are installed. As you might notice, the seals are removed on mine. O N L Y the seal on the inside of the case side. The bearing will come as "sealed" units. Now here is where I open myself up to a lot of different opinions and feed back, which is good and fine. If a bearing is sealed to keep out dust-moisture-dirt, which is good for the tunnel side, then wont it seal out the oil inside the case from getting to the bearing? Well, that's my reason for removing the seals O N L Y on the inside of the case side.



When you get ready to install the case there are a couple of things that are I M P O R T A N T. THIS IS A SEAL THAT GO'S ON THE JACK and DRIVE SHAFT



DON'T BE CHEAP get new o-rings, they are cheap. Inspect the metal seal if it is in good shape then re-use it, because they are a bit pricey. D O N'T use a screw driver or any thing that will cut/crease/pinch/squash that o-ring. Heres a little "tip-0-the-trade". Use a washer, ROLL it around to seat the o-ring into place there is one on both shafts.