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1996 583 MXZ Locked up, where do I go from here?
- I believe that I lost oil to one of my cylinders last winter resulting in a locked piston.
started by 19ranger78
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July 31st 2009 at 4:36 AM
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19ranger78
Starting Member
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2 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: July 31st 2009
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I am very new to snowmobiling and to two cycle engines for that matter, The last one that I rode was a 1973 John Deere 400. Anyway, I got a chance to buy a 1996 Ski-Doo MXZ 583 that according to the last owner "Ran when I parked it". I took it to a buddy who cleaned the carbs, put on a new track, some new bearings in the track's suspension, got it running and back to me. I ran it till I felt somewhat comfortable riding (couple weeks and a tank or two of gas and oil) and then took it to do some trail riding. I topped the gas, oil and we were off. We started and stopped at half a dozen warming shacks, but on the way home, 84 miles later and about 2 miles from home, we stopped at another shack, but the motor stopped quickly. I tried to pull start it, and it would not move. I checked the oil (had about half my tank left), then we put some oil in the cylinder, added some to the gas tank, grabbed the clutch and rocked the motor loose. We sat for a while, let it cool, Pulled it, it started, ran for about 20 yards and locked tight.
Sorry for the long story, but just wanted to get you some background on where I am at.
I am guessing the rings melted to the cylinder walls. My first question is; are the sleeves replaceable in that engine or do I need a whole new motor or if the damage is light enough, can the cylinder be bored? I am familiar with car and motorcycle engines (4 cycle), so I understand the principle of the motor, just not in it's rebuild-able capabilities. I am a little leery about taking it to a shop, I have already sank more money into it than I expected, but I am not willing to give up the ship yet. Any ball-park figures on what a rebuild like this may cost (time + part) in a shop?
Thank you all for your time and help. Hope to see you on the slopes!
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August 3rd 2009 at 12:37 AM
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theword
Junior Member
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134 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: December 8th 2007
Location: Spring Lake Park, MN, USA
Current Sled: 1996 Polaris Ultra SKS
2008-2009 Miles: 425
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Well you need to start by taking the head of the motor and find the cylinder that went. Now when you do that look in to the oil injection and find out if your oil line is plugged. Now if you can get your hands on a shop manual you can check the proper amount of oil to your motor. What you do is get a oil line to the pump and time the amount of oil that go's thru the pump (when running). Well if you add to much oil to a motor it is just as bad as not running any oil in the motor. I hope that you know what you are doing when you take your motor apart to find the issue. I would take the motor apart and get your cylinders honed out if they can or board out .050 and get new pistons. That would be the best thing that you could do. DO NOT ADD EXTRA OIL TO THE GAS IF YOU REBUILD YOUR MOTOR! Just oil the rings and pistons when you put the new ones in. The other thing is if you do this make sure when you put the piston pin clips in that you make sure that you put the gap of the clip ether up or down. I hope that this helps you out.
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August 5th 2009 at 2:58 AM
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19ranger78
Starting Member
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2 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: July 31st 2009
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Quote originally posted by theword
Well you need to start by taking the head of the motor and find the cylinder that went. Now when you do that look in to the oil injection and find out if your oil line is plugged. Now if you can get your hands on a shop manual you can check the proper amount of oil to your motor. What you do is get a oil line to the pump and time the amount of oil that go's thru the pump (when running). Well if you add to much oil to a motor it is just as bad as not running any oil in the motor. I hope that you know what you are doing when you take your motor apart to find the issue. I would take the motor apart and get your cylinders honed out if they can or board out .050 and get new pistons. That would be the best thing that you could do. DO NOT ADD EXTRA OIL TO THE GAS IF YOU REBUILD YOUR MOTOR! Just oil the rings and pistons when you put the new ones in. The other thing is if you do this make sure when you put the piston pin clips in that you make sure that you put the gap of the clip ether up or down. I hope that this helps you out.
Thank you for this information. I am planning on opening it up this weekend or the next and see where I am standing and go from there. Also, going to look into getting that shop manual.
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October 11th 2009 at 2:26 AM
[ Modified October 11th 2009 at 2:27 AM
]
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robssportandlawn
Starting Member
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8 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: October 7th 2009
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Quote originally posted by 19ranger78
Quote originally posted by theword
Well you need to start by taking the head of the motor and find the cylinder that went. Now when you do that look in to the oil injection and find out if your oil line is plugged. Now if you can get your hands on a shop manual you can check the proper amount of oil to your motor. What you do is get a oil line to the pump and time the amount of oil that go's thru the pump (when running). Well if you add to much oil to a motor it is just as bad as not running any oil in the motor. I hope that you know what you are doing when you take your motor apart to find the issue. I would take the motor apart and get your cylinders honed out if they can or board out .050 and get new pistons. That would be the best thing that you could do. DO NOT ADD EXTRA OIL TO THE GAS IF YOU REBUILD YOUR MOTOR! Just oil the rings and pistons when you put the new ones in. The other thing is if you do this make sure when you put the piston pin clips in that you make sure that you put the gap of the clip ether up or down. I hope that this helps you out.
Thank you for this information. I am planning on opening it up this weekend or the next and see where I am standing and go from there. Also, going to look into getting that shop manual.
Quote originally posted by 19ranger78
I am very new to snowmobiling and to two cycle engines for that matter, The last one that I rode was a 1973 John Deere 400. Anyway, I got a chance to buy a 1996 Ski-Doo MXZ 583 that according to the last owner "Ran when I parked it". I took it to a buddy who cleaned the carbs, put on a new track, some new bearings in the track's suspension, got it running and back to me. I ran it till I felt somewhat comfortable riding (couple weeks and a tank or two of gas and oil) and then took it to do some trail riding. I topped the gas, oil and we were off. We started and stopped at half a dozen warming shacks, but on the way home, 84 miles later and about 2 miles from home, we stopped at another shack, but the motor stopped quickly. I tried to pull start it, and it would not move. I checked the oil (had about half my tank left), then we put some oil in the cylinder, added some to the gas tank, grabbed the clutch and rocked the motor loose. We sat for a while, let it cool, Pulled it, it started, ran for about 20 yards and locked tight.
Sorry for the long story, but just wanted to get you some background on where I am at.
I am guessing the rings melted to the cylinder walls. My first question is; are the sleeves replaceable in that engine or do I need a whole new motor or if the damage is light enough, can the cylinder be bored? I am familiar with car and motorcycle engines (4 cycle), so I understand the principle of the motor, just not in it's rebuild-able capabilities. I am a little leery about taking it to a shop, I have already sank more money into it than I expected, but I am not willing to give up the ship yet. Any ball-park figures on what a rebuild like this may cost (time + part) in a shop?
Thank you all for your time and help. Hope to see you on the slopes!
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October 11th 2009 at 2:44 AM
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robssportandlawn
Starting Member
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8 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: October 7th 2009
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check with dealer ,if cyl. are nikasil they can not be bored or honed , on a fresh rebuild you do want to run double oil first few tanks 50-1 for break in,must determine failure before reassembly or will puke again,by inspecting piston and cyl, dealer can tell you what happened,lack of oil, overheating ,air intake leak etc.im located in n. central IL.if your close, ill give you free estimate,only use ski-doo inj. oil,SNOWMOBILE ROB,ROBS SPORT AND LAWN
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October 11th 2009 at 10:38 AM
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slednut55
wanna race?
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685 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: November 6th 2007
Location: Emerald, WI, USA
Current Sled: 96' mxz, 91' mach 1 xtc
2008-2009 Miles: 2300
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Quote originally posted by robssportandlawn
check with dealer ,if cyl. are nikasil they can not be bored or honed , on a fresh rebuild you do want to run double oil first few tanks 50-1 for break in,must determine failure before reassembly or will puke again,by inspecting piston and cyl, dealer can tell you what happened,lack of oil, overheating ,air intake leak etc.im located in n. central IL.if your close, ill give you free estimate,only use ski-doo inj. oil,SNOWMOBILE ROB,ROBS SPORT AND LAWN
they are not nikasil. you can hone them.
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October 11th 2009 at 12:40 PM
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stormrider62033
wally
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4729 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: December 25th 2004
Location: Gillespie, IL, USA
Current Sled: 99xcr 800
2008-2009 Miles: 500
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nice thing about the ski doo 583's
mid Il alway's waiting for snow,moving north(way north)2001 thundercat 99xcr 800 97SPX ULTRA 96 zrt 600&800,92 doo plusX 92 v max 4 750
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