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Aluminum rivets strong enough?
started by LilRedDave
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August 8th 2009 at 12:28 PM
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LilRedDave
Starting Member
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35 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: March 31st 2009
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Are 1/4" aluminum pop rivets strong enough for rear suspension brackets? That's all I can find in this town.
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Site Supporter
Group: Site Supporters
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August 8th 2009 at 12:59 PM
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sledneck1978
HAIL CHASER
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2143 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: August 9th 2007
Location: Andover, MN
2008-2009 Miles: 875
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I'd order some steel ones from fastenal. Plus, you'll get one of their 9 million page catalouges sent with your first order that will include every fastener you could ever want. Seriously, it's bigger than the minneapolis phone book.
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" (Wayne Gretzky)
"Not everyone gets off to a great start, but you have to start to be great" (Zig Zigler)
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August 8th 2009 at 1:19 PM
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crums440
f/s 2002 440 snopro
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293 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: December 4th 2008
Location: corcoran, MN,, USA
Current Sled: 2002 zr440 sno pro
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truee that! lol and you should go with the steel rivets because of there strength
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August 8th 2009 at 2:00 PM
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Empire087
Dude wheres the snow?
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236 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: July 19th 2009
Location: Sault Ste Marie, Michigan
Current Sled: 2002 ZL 500
2008-2009 Miles: 475
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Stainless is the way to go, takes longer to rust, looks nicer for longer.
02 ZL 500(apv)
91 jag afs 440
"if it snowed in the summer, I'd ride!"
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August 8th 2009 at 2:08 PM
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greasemonkey
Northwoods Powdercoating
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1089 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: November 18th 2005
Location: proctor, mn, USA
Current Sled: 05 Switchback
2008-2009 Miles: 1850
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Stainless steel rivets are not as strong as steel.
Go to the dealer and order the right rivets for the brackets. Might cost a little more but you won't have any problems later on.
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August 8th 2009 at 4:30 PM
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LilRedDave
Starting Member
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35 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: March 31st 2009
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Quote originally posted by greasemonkey
Stainless steel rivets are not as strong as steel.
Go to the dealer and order the right rivets for the brackets. Might cost a little more but you won't have any problems later on.
Do you need any special tooling for the factory rivets?
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August 8th 2009 at 6:19 PM
[ Modified August 8th 2009 at 6:21 PM
]
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XLT96rider
Other sports play once a week, but this sport is with us every day.
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942 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: January 7th 2009
Location: Wausau, Wisconsin, USA
Current Sled: 1996 Polaris XLT Special
2008-2009 Miles: 1000+
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Quote originally posted by LilRedDave Quote originally posted by greasemonkey Stainless steel rivets are not as strong as steel. Go to the dealer and order the right rivets for the brackets. Might cost a little more but you won't have any problems later on. Do you need any special tooling for the factory rivets? The factory rivets that I've seen (like on my sled), you would need special tools. Go to your local Fastenal and order some 1/4" steel rivets...you'll have to find someone with a gun (pneumatic) that will pull those though. I doubt you could do it by hand with one of those little guns. Or you can do like I did and use stainless button-head bolts. Where are you from? I get really good pricing at Fastenal. I could just mail them or something.
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August 8th 2009 at 9:25 PM
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polaris91
117 racing
polaris91 ugh.
Updated Tuesday at 8:30 PM
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3647 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: March 9th 2006
Location: bridgeport, new york, USA
Current Sled: 1991 indymod/2005 xcsp600
2008-2009 Miles: 2900
2009-2010 Miles: grass!?
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the drop brackets require 3/16 steel rivits
1990 indy trail bored.20over, ported and polished, cluched and geared, chaincase/brakes/jackshaft from 93 xlt, headlight cover, teather, some custom painting, black skid plate, blue running board trim, fox shocks, blue/gray powermadd handguards, 2 in powermadd riser, fly bars/barpad,blue leds(underglow),1 in lug track, teather mount from a 96xcr440,blue guage bulbs, blue c&as, xtra 10 rear, and edge seat and tank.
2005 xcsp 600,chrome windy,stripped decals,3.5 inch rox riser,white powermadd handguards,white c&a ultra 3 skis 6in shapers,camoplast cobra,slp can,fly bars/barpad,xeon headlight bulbs,rsi barhooks,odi grips,light blue clutch spring,slp vents,black headlight cover,billet wheels,rydefx clicker,
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August 8th 2009 at 10:11 PM
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XLT96rider
Other sports play once a week, but this sport is with us every day.
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942 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: January 7th 2009
Location: Wausau, Wisconsin, USA
Current Sled: 1996 Polaris XLT Special
2008-2009 Miles: 1000+
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^^mine used 1/4"
What kind of sled do you have? That might help.
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August 9th 2009 at 12:34 AM
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ACG
Sell-Out - Moderator
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9086 Posts 
Group: Moderators
Member Since: October 29th 2001
Location: Bountiful, UT, USA
Current Sled: 2009 Dragon 800
2008-2009 Miles: 1500
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The factory rivets I saw on my 04 Pro X2 I had to replace were fine with a regular rivet gun. Pneumatic is better and easier though. These weren't structural rivets either though.
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August 9th 2009 at 1:08 PM
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LilRedDave
Starting Member
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35 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: March 31st 2009
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The rivets are for the rear brackets on a wedge chassis. These ones are definitely 1/4" holes. I'm just more concerened with how the aluminum ones will hold up to the pounding. I might have to check with some supply houses around here on Monday. Thanks for the offer also XLT96rider.
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August 9th 2009 at 8:40 PM
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wallygator
Starting Member
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26 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: February 7th 2006
Location: duluth, mn, USA
Current Sled: 2008 switchback dragon
2008-2009 Miles: 2265
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The rivits you are looking for are installed with an air hammer and an anvil
they are solid aluminum not a pop rivit. You should be able to get them from
a polaris dealer. Finding the tooling is the problem, if you are crafty you
can make them your self.
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August 9th 2009 at 9:44 PM
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polaris91
117 racing
polaris91 ugh.
Updated Tuesday at 8:30 PM
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3647 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: March 9th 2006
Location: bridgeport, new york, USA
Current Sled: 1991 indymod/2005 xcsp600
2008-2009 Miles: 2900
2009-2010 Miles: grass!?
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hmm my indy fit a 3/16 snugly? and you can use pop rivits i just reccomend using a air riviter
1990 indy trail bored.20over, ported and polished, cluched and geared, chaincase/brakes/jackshaft from 93 xlt, headlight cover, teather, some custom painting, black skid plate, blue running board trim, fox shocks, blue/gray powermadd handguards, 2 in powermadd riser, fly bars/barpad,blue leds(underglow),1 in lug track, teather mount from a 96xcr440,blue guage bulbs, blue c&as, xtra 10 rear, and edge seat and tank.
2005 xcsp 600,chrome windy,stripped decals,3.5 inch rox riser,white powermadd handguards,white c&a ultra 3 skis 6in shapers,camoplast cobra,slp can,fly bars/barpad,xeon headlight bulbs,rsi barhooks,odi grips,light blue clutch spring,slp vents,black headlight cover,billet wheels,rydefx clicker,
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August 10th 2009 at 12:51 AM
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proxsledhead
if it aint broke dont fix it!
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221 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: October 25th 2008
Location: Kotzebue, Alaska, USA
Current Sled: MXZX 440 soon to be 700
2008-2009 Miles: 1865
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get the steel rivits, or bolt it
FreeWill, Freeride, Freestyle
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August 11th 2009 at 3:08 PM
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KingPrat
Destroyer of Trailers
KingPrat thinks that Shooter is one of the better movies from the last 5 years.
Updated Yesterday at 9:32 PM
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1032 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: September 13th 2008
Location: Saugerties, NY
Current Sled: 2000 Polaris XC 700 SP
2008-2009 Miles: 200
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I used stainless rivets with a washer for a little extra hold. I didn't have a pneumatic riveter, so I used the longest handled pop riveter I could find. My hand hurt for a week. If you can find one, I definitely suggest the pneumatic...
2000 XCSP 700: Edge rear suspension, 1.25 Ripsaw, 144 Accord Racing Warthog ZXP studs, Sportech Decals, Stripped Tunnel, 3" Riser, Gutted Airbox, Boyesen Rave Valves
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August 17th 2009 at 2:56 PM
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1SethW
Im not Judging... I'm just sayin
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132 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: January 15th 2009
Location: Wahkon, Minnesota, USA
Current Sled: 2002 Edge X 700
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Quote originally posted by LilRedDave
Are 1/4" aluminum pop rivets strong enough for rear suspension brackets? That's all I can find in this town.
Dude if you want to do it right use stainless then you won't have to work on it again because aluminum comes loose and eggs out the holes and wrecks your tunnel!!! Just get stainless and you wont have to worry!!
Thanks,
Seth W
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August 17th 2009 at 4:25 PM
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LilRedDave
Starting Member
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35 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: March 31st 2009
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Done it with some stainless ones and backing washers. I guy I deal with at my work had a 1/4" riveter which is similar in size to a large lock cutter. I ate a can of spinach before hand and it went fine. My arms are just returning to normal from the weekend.
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