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(94 Vmax new to this thing - Today I picked up a 1994 Yamaha Vmax 600 for $400. started by billman100
September 3rd 2009 at 10:33 PM
 
billman100
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Today I picked up a 1994 Yamaha Vmax 600 for $400. Its pretty rough has a small crack in the hood and the nose is kinda falling off. Seat needs to be recovered and both head and tail lights are out. It is missing what i believe to be the choke knob. It has the cables coming from the carbs but they just end looking like they connect to something. The guy showed me how to prime it with carb cleaner? i dont know if that is good for it but it started right up and idled for a while then i took it home about 5 miles, and it started again and i drove it in the back yard on the grass so it runs. He said it has gyt pips on it if that means anything. I am wondering if i got a good/fair deal. Also what should I do before the snow hits.

Ps. srry for the long write up im only 17 so im trying to get as mush input as possible.




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September 3rd 2009 at 11:47 PM
 
92indy500sport
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sounds like an fair deal. the light bulbs will only run u a few bucks so dont worry about that. you can replace the choke cable for around $20 if u look around. are u sure it was carb cleaner? if it was its not bad but next time u go to start it and u dont use the choke cable jusy use ether or starting fluid. i have driven a 2up and it went for being a 2 seater. not much u can do unless u no how it drives in the snow. but check over things and make sure nothing is broken/leaking look for grease fittings and do those



1991 Indy 500- bored out .020, xtra 12 rear skid, OHLINS front shocks, SLP twin pipes

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September 7th 2009 at 3:28 AM
 
billman100
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What should the compression be?




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September 7th 2009 at 2:22 PM  [ Modified September 7th 2009 at 2:23 PM ]
 
flashgordon
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I think the compression should be around 120 but anything above 100 as long as both cylinders are within 10% is okay. sounds like an okay deal. hunt around for the parts you need though, yammi dealers are not cheap.
I found mine really benefited from new plugs and a belt.




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September 7th 2009 at 7:39 PM
 
billman100
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i will test again tomarrow but i did yesterday and i got one about 125 the other 75 so i think ssomethign is not right. what excatly is the correct procedder for testing comp will a pull start machine? im not exaclty sure how




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September 8th 2009 at 4:52 PM
 
Racing666
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If the headlights and tail lights are both out, I would check the voltage regulator.




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September 8th 2009 at 5:05 PM
 
SXMTX
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Quote originally posted by 92indy500sport

sounds like an fair deal. the light bulbs will only run u a few bucks so dont worry about that. you can replace the choke cable for around $20 if u look around. are u sure it was carb cleaner? if it was its not bad but next time u go to start it and u dont use the choke cable jusy use ether or starting fluid. i have driven a 2up and it went for being a 2 seater. not much u can do unless u no how it drives in the snow. but check over things and make sure nothing is broken/leaking look for grease fittings and do those


No you dont use starting fluid. Unless you want to have a sled with no motor



1999 sx 600 MM suspension
cobra windshield challenger 141 track
bender race can slp skis,billet gas cap,billet recoil handle.
Big bore kit from hauck 160 horses

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September 8th 2009 at 7:02 PM
 
RMK-KING
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Sounds like it needs a rebuild,thats why it would start hard is because it has low comp on 1cyl. Let me guess this sled is a faded red color and you bought it in ND?



Current Line Up
-09 RMK Assault
-06 IQ R 600HO
-01 ProX 600
-95 XCR 600

Days get shorter,snow gets deeper,life gets better.

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September 8th 2009 at 8:17 PM  [ Modified September 8th 2009 at 8:17 PM ]
 
flashgordon
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Quote originally posted by billman100

i will test again tomarrow but i did yesterday and i got one about 125 the other 75 so i think ssomethign is not right. what excatly is the correct procedder for testing comp will a pull start machine? im not exaclty sure how


It's too warm your sled up first so you get consistent readings. you need the best compression tester you can afford as well. Once the cylinder is warm with the machine off, pull the plug and thread the tester in. then pull on the starter cable while keeping the throttle open, Make sure the engine is not in the start position. After about 6 or 7 pulls the gage shouldn't go any higher and that should be the reading. I always leave the compression tester there for a little bit too see how long it takes to drop the reading. If it goes down quick you may need your cylinder replated maybe and new rings for sure.
At 75psi that puppy is very low. I would take the head off and measure the cylinder dia and see how much you are out of tolerance. if it is way out plan for a big job. You might only need rings. Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll see if I can send you a service manual for your machine ok.




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September 8th 2009 at 8:48 PM
 
billman100
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Quote originally posted by flashgordon
Quote originally posted by billman100

i will test again tomarrow but i did yesterday and i got one about 125 the other 75 so i think ssomethign is not right. what excatly is the correct procedder for testing comp will a pull start machine? im not exaclty sure how


It's too warm your sled up first so you get consistent readings. you need the best compression tester you can afford as well. Once the cylinder is warm with the machine off, pull the plug and thread the tester in. then pull on the starter cable while keeping the throttle open, Make sure the engine is not in the start position. After about 6 or 7 pulls the gage shouldn't go any higher and that should be the reading. I always leave the compression tester there for a little bit too see how long it takes to drop the reading. If it goes down quick you may need your cylinder replated maybe and new rings for sure.
At 75psi that puppy is very low. I would take the head off and measure the cylinder dia and see how much you are out of tolerance. if it is way out plan for a big job. You might only need rings. Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll see if I can send you a service manual for your machine ok.


ya im the guy that bought that sled of bisman. did i get takin? i should start it with gas only and i will check the comp tomarrow. on a warm motor. i have a manuel so i can take off the head and see what it looks like. what would be the big rebuild taht i would have to do




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September 8th 2009 at 8:52 PM
 
RMK-KING
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Yeah I seen that on bisman,I always like to do a compression test before buying a sled. It could be bad rings or a siezed piston. With twin pipes jetting is more sensative making it easier so sieze a piston if you dont keep a eye on it.



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-09 RMK Assault
-06 IQ R 600HO
-01 ProX 600
-95 XCR 600

Days get shorter,snow gets deeper,life gets better.

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September 8th 2009 at 11:11 PM
 
billman100
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well its not seized because i get about 75 so do u think i could get away with rings and a gasket kit?




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September 8th 2009 at 11:25 PM  [ Modified September 8th 2009 at 11:26 PM ]
 
RMK-KING
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I would pull the topend off and inspect it,post some pics of the piston and cyl on here and im sure you will get some good responces if something looks out of the normal.

If there is no scratches,cracks or bubbles anywhere then I would say rering it and run your $400 out of it this winter.



Current Line Up
-09 RMK Assault
-06 IQ R 600HO
-01 ProX 600
-95 XCR 600

Days get shorter,snow gets deeper,life gets better.

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September 10th 2009 at 6:17 PM
 
KevinEX570
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Sounds like you need a rebuild. Tear down the top tend and see what you got. Those GYT pipes are great and are worth at least 200 bucks if they are in good shape. At the very least you should be able to make you money back if the sled turns into too much work.



1987 Yamaha Exciter L/C
1995 Yamaha V-MAX 600
1998 Ski-doo Formula III 600
1998 Yamaha SRX 700
2001 Arctic Cat T-Cat

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September 10th 2009 at 9:35 PM
 
billman100
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o it wont be too much i just spent the summer rebuilding my jet ski motor so i got some experence




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September 14th 2009 at 3:36 PM
 
mycat8urskidoo
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Your suppossed to rebuild the jet ski motor in the winter, and the snowmobile motor in the summer, looks like your a little ass backwards haha



99 TCat

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September 14th 2009 at 8:57 PM
 
flashgordon
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Quote originally posted by billman100
Quote originally posted by flashgordon
Quote originally posted by billman100

i will test again tomarrow but i did yesterday and i got one about 125 the other 75 so i think ssomethign is not right. what excatly is the correct procedder for testing comp will a pull start machine? im not exaclty sure how


It's too warm your sled up first so you get consistent readings. you need the best compression tester you can afford as well. Once the cylinder is warm with the machine off, pull the plug and thread the tester in. then pull on the starter cable while keeping the throttle open, Make sure the engine is not in the start position. After about 6 or 7 pulls the gage shouldn't go any higher and that should be the reading. I always leave the compression tester there for a little bit too see how long it takes to drop the reading. If it goes down quick you may need your cylinder replated maybe and new rings for sure.
At 75psi that puppy is very low. I would take the head off and measure the cylinder dia and see how much you are out of tolerance. if it is way out plan for a big job. You might only need rings. Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll see if I can send you a service manual for your machine ok.


ya im the guy that bought that sled of bisman. did i get takin? i should start it with gas only and i will check the comp tomarrow. on a warm motor. i have a manuel so i can take off the head and see what it looks like. what would be the big rebuild taht i would have to do



a rebuild kit is fairly cheap, I bought one from Royal Distributing for around $100 Cdn. Buy the head gaskets and a new set of rings, you will need the gaskets if you take the heads off anyway so you may as well replace the rings. I would be more concerned with the piston that had 75psi. you may need to have that jug replated because 75 is very low. look around as people sell the jugs on ebay and you can put an ad on the wanted classifieds on this site. good luck to you and ask the questions if you need help. lots of people will help no problems.




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September 15th 2009 at 3:06 PM
 
3ft
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75 psi...You need more then just rings. I was getting 60 psi when 1/2 my ring was missing...the jugs had big score marks and the head was toast. Not to piss in your wheaties...spend the money and rebuild both sides and have yourself a good sled. They are cheap to find parts on ebay and very common. No reason to cut corners....You'll just end up spending the money later eitherway...IMO



Pin it till you see god, and back off just a hair!!

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September 16th 2009 at 8:25 PM
 
billman100
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ok so comp is offically 75-115. do i need to drain the antifreeze out of the cooling system before i pull the head off. i assume i do. sorry for taking so long but football and school really doesnt leave me with much time for other things




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September 17th 2009 at 4:36 PM
 
BAMT700
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I would drain the antifreeze before you pull the head, You don't want it all over your engine compartment leaking from the head and hoses. Its a good idea to put fresh in especially if you plan on doing a rebuild. Something is tore up if your down to 75 in one cylinder for sure!




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September 27th 2009 at 6:34 PM
 
billman100
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ok so i put my jet ski away for the year today and immidatly startd in the snowmobile. I got the exhaudt off and anti freeze out no problum. pulled the head and snapped some pictures what do u guys think is my best bet? the cylinder with the carbon deposited piston was the 75 psi one also the darker of the domes on the head was the 75psi.










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September 27th 2009 at 8:54 PM  [ Modified September 27th 2009 at 8:55 PM ]
 
makk98
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looks more like a mixture prob,or bad rings not burning all the fuel,is there oil/gas in the crank case? sometimes theres a drain plug @ the bottom.



97'Polaris xlt limited,88'eltigre,77'eltigre,79,jag,92 exciter

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September 28th 2009 at 12:09 AM  [ Modified September 28th 2009 at 12:11 AM ]
 
RMK-KING
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Does the cylinder wall look good with no scratches? Its hard to get a good look from the pictures,but the black piston has next to no wash so it was leaned out and most likely has scored the side if you look at it through the intake port. If your cylinder wall is ok you can probley get by with just a new piston and rings.



Current Line Up
-09 RMK Assault
-06 IQ R 600HO
-01 ProX 600
-95 XCR 600

Days get shorter,snow gets deeper,life gets better.

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September 28th 2009 at 11:09 AM
 
billman100
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Quote originally posted by RMK-KING

Does the cylinder wall look good with no scratches? Its hard to get a good look from the pictures,but the black piston has next to no wash so it was leaned out and most likely has scored the side if you look at it through the intake port. If your cylinder wall is ok you can probley get by with just a new piston and rings.


cylinder walls looked ok i didnt see anything that stood out. i think i will take the cylinders off and have them honed out by my local machine shop. it vey well could have been running lean. the head nuts were not all that tight on black iston side so im thinking that my be the culprit





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September 30th 2009 at 6:48 AM
 
josh242005
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after your engine is good to go dont forget the drop brackets for the rear
http://www.snowmobileworld.com/forums/sh...265&page=3

im doing them now i just picked up a 94 as well




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