i think i really screwed up. i have a 96 600 triple-triple aggresive body style, 38mm roundslide carbs. i bought a set of slp pipes off ebay because it had a listing for 93-97 xlt/xcr. i called slp to get the jetting info and they informed me that i have the wrong pipes for that year. are there any suggestions on jetting that i should use? these are the ones that i have...

http://www.startinglineproducts.com/tech...stingID=66

any help will be appreciated.
thanks,
brian

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You can't use those pipes on your sled. They are for the monoblock Xlt motor.they won't fit or work properly, they are tuned different.

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wrong pipes bud wont work different motor

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alright, thanks. anyone have a set for sale or want to trade?

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my 2 cents....
put them back on ebay and try to recoupe your money or close, right now theyre selling like hot cakes. its not worth the money to put pipes on a factory triple pipe sled. put the money into clutching maybe find a silencer...will lose a few pounds and gain a horse or two. but they can be costly also.
yes youll gain a couple horsepower from pipes, but its not like the gains on the sleds that came without triple pipes. theyre already tuned fairly well. jetting and clutching will give you all the gains youll need and no noise.

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i was only going the piped route because the stock pipes are rotted. i took the aluminum covers off and found dime and quarter sized holes in the pipes. so i started to look for pipes and ran across the ones i purchased with like 5 min remaining on ebay and got them for around the same price as a set of factory pipes. i guess i should have looked into it a little harder. lol

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if you got them for around the price of a factory set...im hoping 100 bucks or less, you did great and will make your money back, if youre looking for a factory set i wouldnt spend more then 100 or so, theyre all over just look around, again list those on ebay quick and youll get your money back no problem, they go like crazy right now, dont hold on to them prices drop into the season.

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are you selling them?

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sold tonite for 175 and bought for 127! i definately made out. now that i cut another aluminum band off i found another pipe with half-dollar sized holes in it. no wonder why i couldnt shake a arctic zl 600 on the top end. bottom end i was getting smoked lol. hopefully i can find a set of good slp's or dp's before snow fly's.

brian

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The triple/triple Xcr 600's were referred to as "Frankenstein" and had many problems.
I doubt the pipes will be a cure. they were an Ultra bottom end with its own cyls and Storm pipes. read info get it to run. i copied and pasted it.

How can I get my 1996-1998 XCR-600 triple triple (Aggressive chassis) to run right?

I spent 3 years with these sleds and it was definitely a love/hate relationship. I loved it when it ran right, but hated it most of the time. From the beginning this sled was one big compromise after another. Built as a parts bin special to compete against the Formula III-600 Skidoo and ZRT-600 Cat, the XCR-600 was never quite right and required a lot of constant attention to run properly on the trail. Based on the case reed Ultra 680 lower end with smaller cylinders, triple pipes from the Storm, and dropped in the good looking but extremely heavy Aggressive chassis, low end or trail power was never this sleds cup of tea- at least it didn’t lack too much in the top end department.

The 1996 XCR-600 SP was the worst of the bunch. Poor carb calibration, lousy clutching, and cdi/timing issues plagued this sled from the get-go. Jetted way fat and with very conservative clutching, out of the box setup left the new XCR staring at the taillights of any ZRT or Formula III it ran up against. The problems only got worse when the sled was ridden on the trail in the 5000-6300 rpm range, or about normal trail speeds. When fully broken in and warmed up, it would pull hard at WFO, but fell on its face anywhere else, peaky powerband was an understatement to say the least. 1997 brought revised jetting, clutching, and a new CDI which helped the out of box setup, but it was still far from perfect. 1998 was the final year of production and saw only decal changes from the year before. While it was the best of the bunch, Polaris left far too much on the table with this sled and they never could match the all around performance of the Skidoo or Cat. The new domestic twins, specifically the XC-700, easily surpassed the XCR-600 in every performance category and required far less tuning as well.

I ran a ’96, ’97 SE, and ’98 model XCR-600 and helped tune dozens of others. The following specs [based on Midwest riding under 2000’ with temps above 0 F] work well for the average trail rider, can be purchased at any Polaris dealer and make this sled an almost enjoyable snowmobile. It won’t be perfect, but at least Indy 500s won’t leave you down a trail!

Main jet: 340P-360C-360M
Pilot jet: #45 with the air bypass drilled out on ’96 models*
Slide: 2.5 or 3.0
Timing: Full retard or run the 1997/1998 cdi module
Airbox: can be gutted in warmer weather
Drive clutch: Polaris almond/gold or Goodwin’s black spring [keep engagement at least 4800 or more] 10-58 weights lightened to ~57g and heeled. This works well for riders around 180 lbs and should be changed accordingly to get rpm to 8300.
Driven clutch: Polaris silver secondary with a R-3 helix in the #2 hole.
Rear suspension: Move RRSS block to back hole [’96 models will need to be drilled out] and adjust limiters to at least ½” thread showing. 1996 models came with the lightest torsion springs and most people will need to upgrade to heavier springs.
Exhaust: Dynoport silencer
Gearing: -1 on top gear
Intake: Carbon Tech reeds with Fett Brothers reed spacers.

Misc: Hot Seat billet heads, HTG pipes, and big bore piston kits also work extremely well.

Also, there were about 15 factory updates that needed to be done to the '96s, make sure all of them have been done as well.

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