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Changing drive sprockets on a 98 ZR 600 to add clearance - I want to add clearance on my AC to be able to stud my track started by smhekma
November 6th 2009 at 5:13 PM
 
smhekma
Hekdog
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Current Sled: 1998 ZR 600 EFI
 
 
At the end of last year I added a 1.5" ripsaw to my 98 ZR 600 which from what I have heard is pretty much the maximum size lug you can fit in that sled with the stock clearance. I would like to add some studs but I need to get some extra clearance and I have heard that you can switch to smaller drive sprockets to do this. Anybody have any experience with this mod? I need some more information as far as what I am looking for and a good place to purchase the necessary items for this.




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November 6th 2009 at 8:19 PM
 
700wildcat
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I had to do that to fit that 2'' paddle track on my wildcat that I used to have(in my signature). I just bought the smaller sprockets through arctic cat and had a friend of mine take the old ones off and press the new ones on. Didn't have to do any regearing. Its pretty simple to do. Count how many teeth are on the current sprockets (was nine on my wildcat and I think i went with an 8 tooth sprocket) and then get sprockets with about 8 or 7 teeth. That should give you 1/4" to 1/2" of added clearance.



2008 Arctic cat M8 153''Stock >current
1996 Arctic cat Wildcat 700 136x2x15 challenger finger track, 3'' riser, Powermadd mountain bar.sold
1980 Arctic cat Jag 3000. sold

Dad's
2003 Arctic Cat Mountain cat 800 144''.
1999 Arctic Cat Powder Special 500. sold
2000 Polaris Indy 550 Trail.

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November 6th 2009 at 9:42 PM
 
smhekma
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Awesome thanks for the info!




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November 6th 2009 at 10:07 PM
 
KingPratRed Ribbon
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What size track do you have and what size studs are you running?? You shouldn't need to drop sprocket size to run studs.........



2000 XCSP 700: Edge rear suspension, 1.25 Ripsaw, 144 Accord Racing Warthog ZXP studs, Sportech Decals, Stripped Tunnel, 3" Riser, Gutted Airbox, Boyesen Rave Valves

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November 6th 2009 at 10:49 PM
 
smhekma
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Quote originally posted by KingPrat

What size track do you have and what size studs are you running?? You shouldn't need to drop sprocket size to run studs.........



I am running a 136 1.5" ripsaw so with that size lug I think I do need the extra clearance. I could be wrong but from other posts that I have read I think the 1.5" is about the maximum you can run for the stock clearance. I have 1.625" studs that I want to add but I think without the extra clearance I could do some damage.




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November 11th 2009 at 1:56 AM
 
smhekma
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If anybody knows anything about this check out the website below and look at the first sprockets they have listed. I am going to probably call them in the next couple of days just to make sure this is what I am looking for but if anybody knows for sure please share your ideas.


http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/Snowmobil...s_102.html




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November 11th 2009 at 10:09 AM
 
700wildcat
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They look like the same one's I got for my sled so they should work.



2008 Arctic cat M8 153''Stock >current
1996 Arctic cat Wildcat 700 136x2x15 challenger finger track, 3'' riser, Powermadd mountain bar.sold
1980 Arctic cat Jag 3000. sold

Dad's
2003 Arctic Cat Mountain cat 800 144''.
1999 Arctic Cat Powder Special 500. sold
2000 Polaris Indy 550 Trail.

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Last Monday at 12:15 PM
 
smhekma
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Alright now I have one more question. On the ZR it looks like it has the two center drive sprockets but then has idler wheels on the outside. I can buy drive sprockets for both the inside and outside and I have seen some of the other models have this. Is there any advantage to adding the outside drive sprockets instead of having just idler wheels? Also, if I just keep the idler wheels would they need to match the size of the drive sprockets as the ones I am looking at are 6 5/16" diameter and I have not been able to find any idler wheels that match that size.




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Last Monday at 3:51 PM
 
700wildcat
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Quote originally posted by smhekma

Alright now I have one more question. On the ZR it looks like it has the two center drive sprockets but then has idler wheels on the outside. I can buy drive sprockets for both the inside and outside and I have seen some of the other models have this. Is there any advantage to adding the outside drive sprockets instead of having just idler wheels? Also, if I just keep the idler wheels would they need to match the size of the drive sprockets as the ones I am looking at are 6 5/16" diameter and I have not been able to find any idler wheels that match that size.



The outer drive sprockets would help prevent it from slipping. My wildcat had all drive sprockets, no idler wheels, and it would still sometimes slip. But if you haven't had any trouble with it slipping you'd be fine with the two idler wheels unless you can't find any that size.

I was just thinking, my M8 uses only the two middle drive sprockets and has no outer idler wheels, so I don't see any reason why you couldn't do that if you can't find any idler wheels. It would save you a little $.



2008 Arctic cat M8 153''Stock >current
1996 Arctic cat Wildcat 700 136x2x15 challenger finger track, 3'' riser, Powermadd mountain bar.sold
1980 Arctic cat Jag 3000. sold

Dad's
2003 Arctic Cat Mountain cat 800 144''.
1999 Arctic Cat Powder Special 500. sold
2000 Polaris Indy 550 Trail.

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Last Monday at 4:10 PM  [ Modified Last Monday at 4:14 PM ]
 
Quinlan
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Quote originally posted by 700wildcat

I was just thinking, my M8 uses only the two middle drive sprockets and has no outer idler wheels, so I don't see any reason why you couldn't do that if you can't find any idler wheels. It would save you a little $.

Your M8 also utilizes involute/exvolute drivers. This means that your drivers drive the track by pushing both the inner lugs as well as the track windows. This basically eliminates ratcheting all together. The ZR does not have this setup; only being driven by the inner lugs. Running only the middle 2 drivers may inhibit track slipping.

If you want to run the inner 2 drivers only, I would suggest looking into anti-ratchet drivers (or "no-slip" drivers as sold by HiPerf). You will need a fully clipped track though.



2006 Arctic Cat SnoPro 440/700 EFI
1998 Arctic Cat ZR 600 EFI Custom
1996 Ski-Doo FormulaIII 600

A mountain lion roaming the prairie found a bull, killed it and ate the entire bull. With a heavy belly, unable to walk, the lion laid in the tall grass moaning and roaring. Soon a hunter, attracted by the roaring, shot and killed the lion. Moral: When you're full of bull, keep your mouth shut!

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Last Monday at 5:13 PM
 
smhekma
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Yeah I have looked into the anti-ratchet drivers but my track is clipped every 3rd and they also suggest you get the anti-stab wheel kit. At this point the big thing there is I am not looking to invest in clipping my track fully (maybe next year). So from the sounds of it the outer drive sprockets won't necessarily help but if worst comes to worst and I can't find the right size idler wheels it can be done.




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Last Monday at 7:11 PM
 
700wildcat
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Quote originally posted by Quinlan
Quote originally posted by 700wildcat

I was just thinking, my M8 uses only the two middle drive sprockets and has no outer idler wheels, so I don't see any reason why you couldn't do that if you can't find any idler wheels. It would save you a little $.

Your M8 also utilizes involute/exvolute drivers. This means that your drivers drive the track by pushing both the inner lugs as well as the track windows. This basically eliminates ratcheting all together. The ZR does not have this setup; only being driven by the inner lugs. Running only the middle 2 drivers may inhibit track slipping.



smhekma said in his previous post that it is only being driven by the two inner drivers and that the two outer drivers are just idler wheels. So therefore taking out the two outside idler wheels shouldn't make a difference. And unless he is having problems with it slipping he shouldn't need the outside drivers.




2008 Arctic cat M8 153''Stock >current
1996 Arctic cat Wildcat 700 136x2x15 challenger finger track, 3'' riser, Powermadd mountain bar.sold
1980 Arctic cat Jag 3000. sold

Dad's
2003 Arctic Cat Mountain cat 800 144''.
1999 Arctic Cat Powder Special 500. sold
2000 Polaris Indy 550 Trail.

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Last Monday at 8:09 PM  [ Modified Last Monday at 8:10 PM ]
 
Quinlan
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2008-2009 Miles: 365
 
 
I own a '98 ZR...I'm fully aware of how the track is driven. The outer drivers, even if they are just idlers, are there for a reason. The allow for support and alignment of the track in some conditions. If it were me, I would replace the outer idlers with drivers. This helps reduce chances of ratcheting by increasing driver area. If not drivers, I would at least replace the idlers with the proper sized ones if dropping sizes. The two inner drivers will work, but I wouldn't run it myself.

Believe what you wish and do as you please. Just stating my two-bits...



2006 Arctic Cat SnoPro 440/700 EFI
1998 Arctic Cat ZR 600 EFI Custom
1996 Ski-Doo FormulaIII 600

A mountain lion roaming the prairie found a bull, killed it and ate the entire bull. With a heavy belly, unable to walk, the lion laid in the tall grass moaning and roaring. Soon a hunter, attracted by the roaring, shot and killed the lion. Moral: When you're full of bull, keep your mouth shut!

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Last Monday at 8:27 PM
 
smhekma
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I would agree with that. I figured that the idlers were there for alignment as well but I just wanted to make sure that switching them out to the drive sprockets wouldn't cause any issues which it sounds like if anything there will be at least some benefit which is what I was hoping to hear as the drive sprockets on hiperf really aren't that much more than idlers. Actually on their website they are the same price but even if I could find them cheaper elsewhere I don't seem to be able to find the right size.




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