HomeForumThe Performance Tuning ShopHow To

2 Pages
1
Go To Page...
 


Rusty Pipe Painting 101 started by arcticcatmatt
November 2nd 2006 at 11:10 AM  [ Modified October 25th 2007 at 8:32 AM ]
 
arcticcatmatt
Spleen Splitter
arcticcatmatt had a bat in the bedroom at 2 a.m.
Updated Over 4 hours ago
Send this user an email message Send this user a private message View this users gallery View this users blog
11325 Posts
Group: Moderators
Member Since: November 25th 2001
Location: Berkshire, NY, USA
Current Sled: 96/97 ZRT 600
Miles Last Season: 100
Miles This Season: 462
 
 
I got a big response from people when I did this so I thought I would repost some stuff.

I bought some 1200 degree paint from Dupli-Color for exhaust. It has ceramic in it and if you paint then touch it with your fingers, it comes off.

Here it is (but I used the silver of course)


Now.. I had my original pipes

And I had my original exhaust flanges

Then I bead blasted them bad boys (no picture of the blasted flanges)


Then I got the paint out and followed the instructions. I think it was a coating every 10 mins.. 3 coatings total


Flanges painted and mounted


I also blasted and repacked my black magic can (there is a seperate how to on that one). I installed everything.. and it looked 100x better. I have ran it for about 20 mins and no problems yet. If I have a problem long term (this winter will be first test), I will post it here.



I was curious as to why the paint got silver on my hands a week after it was painted. I wrote the company and here are the emails from our communication
Hello!

This weekend I sandblasted my snowmobile exhaust pipes and applied your aluminum color 1200 degree high heat paint.

After it was all dry, I touched the pipes and got a silver residue on my hand. The paint was dry of course. I am wondering what this silver residue is. Will this go away after the pipes are heated up for the first time?


Matthew,

Thank you for taking the time to contact us. The paint will stop "leafing" off of the surface once it is heat cured. For maximum adhesion and heat resilience, High Heat Paint should be heat cured for proper performance. The key to curing is the "bake on" time. For maximum heat resistance cure the finish at 300 Fahrenheit for 2 hours, 400 Fahrenheit for 1-1/2 hours, or 600 Fahrenheit for 1 hour. This can be substituted by starting
your snowmobile for about 30 seconds or so and then turning it off and letting it cool down. You can do this several times, but it may not be as effective as actually baking the part.

Good luck with your project.

Regards,
Ray





Check out my site and join up!
www.adventurehiker.com

Triple Triple Triples are like some slightly overweight chicks, weight doesn't matter as long as she's high in performance baby!

Rating:
+1
 
 
 
Site Supporter
Group: Site Supporters
 
 
 
November 2nd 2006 at 11:17 AM
 
Offshore24
Dismember
Send this user an email message Send this user a private message View this users gallery View this users blog
4169 Posts
Group: Moderators
Member Since: November 30th 2002
Location: NOYDB, Confusion, Azerbaijan
Current Sled: 05' Gade
Miles Last Season: 1200 maybe
Miles This Season: 3000
 
 
I need a bigger oven!



2005 Ski-Doo MXZ Renegade 600 SDI
Save your breath, you'll need it to blow up your date.

Rating:
0
 
November 2nd 2006 at 11:20 AM
 
arcticcatmatt
Spleen Splitter
arcticcatmatt had a bat in the bedroom at 2 a.m.
Updated Over 4 hours ago
Send this user an email message Send this user a private message View this users gallery View this users blog
11325 Posts
Group: Moderators
Member Since: November 25th 2001
Location: Berkshire, NY, USA
Current Sled: 96/97 ZRT 600
Miles Last Season: 100
Miles This Season: 462
 
 
^ Me too! oh well.. I guess me starting it over and over was a good thing haha



Check out my site and join up!
www.adventurehiker.com

Triple Triple Triples are like some slightly overweight chicks, weight doesn't matter as long as she's high in performance baby!

Rating:
0
 
November 2nd 2006 at 11:27 AM
<