Well this is my first how to write up so hopefully it will benefit someone out there.

A few months ago I decided on extending my 2005 skidoo 500 ss from a 121" track to a 136" track, I took some pictures, and toward the end not so many, sorry got a bit excited and forgot about the picture taking until it was a little too late. anyways here are some pictures and a brief write up of everything I encountered during my project.

First I'll start with getting the parts rounded up and purchased. (this is a no brainer but a step in my project none the less).

I purchased my rail extension's and tunnel extension from tracksusa, the hyfax and klotz chaincase oil from dennis kirk, 136" ripsaw from erick (site admin on the site for you new members and guest). I also picked up a new spare belt and some triple point carbides from dennis kirk (to save on shipping, but those items aren't necesary for to complete the project).












once all of these parts arrived I decided it was time to round up some tools, a couple that I found that made the project alot easier was the air rivet gun and a 3/8th drive socket 10mm allen for the rear skid bolts.

The next step was to drain the oil from the chaincase, on the newer ski-doo's there is a drain plug in the bottom that uses a allen wrench, simply take the plug out and allow the oil to drain into any type of pan, I used a old cake pan that was no longer suitable for cooking in.




Next you are going to remove the chaincase cover




then you can loosen the silent chain and remove the castle nut and bolt that retain the upper and lower gears. You will also need to remove the brake caliper from the chain case








I took this next picture for any that may need to change out the bearing and it's not necesary for swaping out a track.




Next you will want to remove the chaincase from the sled, to do this simply remove the three nuts that are left holding it in.



Next I loosened the rear axle bolts located in the center of the rear wheels. This allows the axle to move forward when loosening the adjusting bolts.




with the tension off of the track I then removed the front skid mounting bolts, there is a nut on the inside of the tunnel that you will have to put a wrench on to keep it from spinning on you.




The next step was to support the rear end of the sled, I used a ratchet strap off of a roof joist in the garage, probably not the best way but it worked. Once the rear of the sled was hanging I was able to remove the rear suspension bolts, there is an aluminum collar on the inside of the tunnel that you can get a pair of pliers on to hold the shaft from turning on you (this makes extracting the bolts a lot easier).

With the skid loose from the rest of the sled, you will want to work it out from under the sled while working the front and back of the skid over the cogs that are on the inside of the track, This can be a bit trying if you are working alone.

With the skid removed, you will then need to open the left side panel and remove the three nuts that are holding the driven shaft in place (these nuts are found behind the secondary cluch, they are also used to secure the PTO side bearing carrier.




with the bearing carrier loose from the sled, you can move the shaft toward the chaincase side allowing it to drop on the PTO side, this will then allow you to pull the shaft out of the sled.



The track can now be re-installed by following these directions in reverse (the use of a ratchet strap to aid in compressing the rear suspension arms may be needed to allow for proper mounting hole alignment). If you are extending the track as well you may continue reading.

With the skid out, I first removed the rear axle



I then installed the rail extensions to check for fitment, once they were checked, I removed them from the skid and removed the old hyfax. With the old hyfax out of the way I began to bolt the new rail extensions on. To make life a bit easier , I placed the rear axle into position before putting the last rail extension on. You will have to drill at least one hole in the factory rails and may need to do some filing to acquire a clean fit. My extensions are on in reverse from what they are designed but with a call to tracksusa I quickly found that there isn't any performance issues. Just a little bit of a looks thing but I can live with them for now as it's too close to season start for me to be pulling the skid back out.





with the axle in place and the rail extensions mounted to the stock rails you are ready to put the rear axle wheels back on, if by chance you put the extensions on backwards as I did, you will find that you need to modify the aluminum block that sits under the adjusting bolts for the rear axle (failure to do this would result in not being able to adjust the rear axle in an easy manner).

So with the axle back in the skid, the adjusting bolt back on the rails, you can now install your new hyfax, I simply purchased my hyfax for the 05 model year renegade as it came in a 136" track, this really came in handy when I only had to trim about 1" off the tail end of the hyfax.



With the skid complete, and the new track ready I reinstalled the skid and track as I stated above. simply follow the instructions in reverse.

I then moved onto removing the snowflap (it's riveted on) by driling out the rivets. and the rear bracket that the snowflap mounts to by grinding the steel rivets down and then driling them out.







My next step was to check for fitment of the tunnel extension. with the fitment checked I simply drilled a new hole on each side of the tunnel for one rivet, this allowed me to secure the tunnel extension in the spot that it needed to be.

with the air rivet gun I installed both rivets in under a minute. It's very very handy to have one of these with this type of work. once the tunnel extension was secure I finished driling and riveting the rest of the points (key note here, remove the protective paper before riveting as not doing this will result in it being a permanent attachment to the sled).

As I said before, with the hyfax, I again purchased a renegade lugage rack and radiator cover as the gade came in a 136" track. I did however fail to realize the renegade's rear bumper was about 2 maybe 3" longer than the stock 500 ss bumper, as you will see in a later picture. I am in the process of shopping for a gade bumper.

so with the new tunnel extension in place I then riveted the snow flap back into place, you will need a manual rivet gun to be able to pull the center two rivets, unless your air rivet gun can reach down inside the small hole.

next I drilled out the rear bumper mounting hole, the extension has the hole already in it, you will have to drill through the stock tunnel. With this new mounting hole opened up I was able to install the rear bumper.

I then mounted my tail light into the new gade lugage rack and secured the wiring with the three screws (sold seperately, screws for securing wiring, mounting bolts, and mounting sleeves ie nuts) you will need these if changing to a gade lugage rack. with the wiring secured, I positioned the new lugage rack into place and drilled my new mounting holes. with that lugage rack in place I then was ready to install the new radiator cover (it is easier if you take your trunk off of the sled as you can see in this picture



The above picture also allows for you to remove the wire tie which will free up the necessary slack in the wires needed for the new tail light placement.

I then positioned the new radiator cover into place, making sure that I wasn't going to pinch any wires or drill through the radiator (the cover is riveted on with rivets that are sold seperately). Six rivets that are painted black are used to secure the new radiator cover.

There are three holes along the back edge of the cover that sit on top of the snow flap, I simply drilled the holes out a little bit to allow for the plastic style pushin fasteners.

with all of the new parts in place, I re-installed my trunk and took some final pictures.







Well I hope this helps, sorry if I jumped around a little. Like I said earlier, this is my first how to.

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Nice work!!!

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Thanks, Hopefully this will help someone out there. If it only helps one other person then I think it was worth the time to take the pictures and do the write up.

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