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Phazer: appreciate suggestions on studs and carbides started by briancuss
February 25th 2008 at 5:00 PM
 
briancuss
cuss
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Location: Burlington, VT, USA
Current Sled: Phazer FX
2008-2009 Miles: 500
 
 
First post for me here..I ride the tight twisty bumpy trails of Northern Vermont. We get radical temp swings ... foot of snow, 60 degrees 2 days later, then freezing. I would like to maximize perfomance (speed/hookup/turning) and safety (it's not fun sliding downhill backwards on an icepacked hill). What advice can you all give me for upgrades to the factory carbides and what # studs and pattern. Any other performance tips greatly appreciated.

To best describe the sled, feels like riding a dirt bike on the sled trails. In fact, I've now got the bug to get backinto dirt biking (no more MX, just trails and play)so any input there would be cool. I am thinking of a Honda CRF 230.

Great site - looknig forward to it! Cuss




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February 25th 2008 at 5:27 PM
 
Holbrook
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I would suggest 144 studs... there nice.. not too many put enough to get some major traction.



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February 25th 2008 at 5:28 PM
 
briancuss
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Maybe my subject title was to boring. I'm pretty new to snowmobiling and definitely new to this Phazer. Dealer is suggesting 48 studs only and 6 or maybe 8 inch carbides. I do like to ride aggressive. My wife has a Phazer GT - her need is more safety and control over the sled. Thanks!




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February 25th 2008 at 6:39 PM  [ Modified February 25th 2008 at 6:55 PM ]
 
PZ1
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As far as carbides, I have always went the maximum route. Big diameter bar, big inserts, 90 degrees, longest carbide -with hardweld. They don't have to be changed as often and I feel are cheapest in the long run and give a lot of control. I never have a problem with darting, or the carbides overpowering the handling and track. But that is me, on my sleds, it may be different for you and your sled and you may not like that route.

As far as studs, there are so many variables with stud length, stud type, stud placement and number of studs that it is difficult to say what would be best for you. The way I do it is somewhat unorthodox and many would say is not the proper way to do it, so I am not even going to go into it. You will probably get as many different answers as people you ask. Take what information you can gather and go with what seems best to you. In time, experience will help to show you what works best.




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February 26th 2008 at 12:18 PM
 
07Phazer
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2008-2009 Miles: 400
 
 
The normal number of studs for a 121" track is 96. That's 2 studs in each rib, up the middle. 48 studs would be half of that, or 2 studs in every other rib, up the middle. I would tend to agree with your dealer about the 48 studs. The number of studs is generally determined by the amount of power you're putting to the ground. Too many studs, and all you're doing is adding excessive weight to your track. Too little studs, and you may experience tear outs and breaking studs because the force on each stud is too great. 48 studs, IMO, is a good starting point for the Phazer. It only puts out 80 HP, so you don't need triple digit numbers of studs, but if 48 doesn't seem to be working for you, you can always double it to 96.

Be very careful about carbide length on the Phazer, especially for your wife. I bought new carbides for mine this season, and only went with 4". I noticed that my steering effort went up considerably over stock. If you're running studs, and are a more aggressive rider, then I'd probably suggest 6". I think 8" would be too much. However, if you don't ride aggressive, I wouldn't go over 4", even with studs. I don't have studs in mine, and 4" of carbide is just about right for me, if they made 5" carbides, that would probably be perfect. If you really want it to handle, get a different set of skis (I'll be putting on a set of Ski-Doo Precision Skis at the end of this season).

One last thing. Yamaha does not recommend studs. I'm not saying you shouldn't get studs to make your travels safer. You should, but in case something comes up, I thought I'd bring this up. Yamaha's have a tendancy to warp rear idler wheels, Phazers too. If you warp an idler, and you have studs, there is a really good chance you'll be footing the bill. Yamaha has had a tendancy to deny warranty claims on items like that for people that run studs. This might be something you want to bring up with your dealer if you decide to run studs.




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February 29th 2008 at 3:44 PM
 
Skipponator
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Is this a new Phazer or old school? If new, do no more than 96, I have 96 and it's perfect, and I got the 1.175 iirc, perfect, and the max is right about there too, actually I think I went with the max..... I put poly backers on too for weight reduction and looks!



2007 Team Yamaha Blue Phazer FX, 96 Woody's 1.175" studs, EPI Spring kit, 4" Woody's 60*,silver skid plate, GYTR grab bumper, silver billet fuel cap, guage relocation, Venture Lite electric cooling fan, water wetter added.

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March 3rd 2008 at 4:30 PM
 
briancuss
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[quote=originally posted by 07Phazer]
If you really want it to handle, get a different set of skis (I'll be putting on a set of Ski-Doo Precision Skis at the end of this season).


Why did you decide on Ski-Doo Precision skis versus everything out there? Are they available aftermarket or do I have to buy direct from Ski-Doo.




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March 4th 2008 at 11:48 AM
 
07Phazer
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^^^ My uncle has a set of Precisions that he's been trying to sell. I think they came off my cousins old '03 Rev after he put a set of Simmon's on his. I can get them for dirt cheap. Quite honestly, that's the only reason I'm going with Precisions. If I were buying a set brand new (which I was planning on doing), I'd certainly look into some of the aftermarket companies.

Just as a side note, Ski-Doo no longer makes the Pricision Ski's. They were replaced with the Pilots. Also, Ski-Doo ski's aren't a direct swap either. It won't take a whole lot to make them fit, but they aren't going to be a "factory fit" like a set of C&A's with the custom Yamaha mount would be.




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