Ok guys, you're going to think I'm crazy for trying this, but believe it or not, it WORKS!
I mounted a 1 lb bottle of propane on a fire extinguisher bracket to my belt guard, and strapped it down with a pair of velcro straps.
I modified a torch valve and plumbed it to a tee fitting for a guage, and then out to a solenoid valve.The wiring to activate the solenoid comes off the power feed for the accessories on the Rh bulkhead, and goes to a spring loaded push button switch on the left handlebar.
When activated at idle or midrange, the engine rpm will decrease or die from the extra fuel , but at WOT, awesome power!
The principle of propane injection is similar to that of nitrous, albeit that nitrous oxide is an oxidizer, and requires additional fuel to keep the engine from burning down.
Propane however, is very high octane fuel (110+)and is introduced into the air stream (a modest amount )at the point that the carburetor is reaching its volumetric efficency(WOT)
Propane boils at -41 degrees, so as it is injected into the air stream, it cools the incoming charge to around zero degrees based on an ambient temperature of 40 degrees. I am still experimenting with finding the optimum air/fuel ratio mix,orifice sizes, etc.
Now that I see that it can work, I will next change my cylinder head over to a billet type HotSeat dome setup for dependability.
In the next few days, I will have some pix available if anyone wants to see how to DIY to your own sleds.
Another thing I forgot to mention, a cylinder of propane is only $3,
and will last considerably longer than any nitrous bottle would, as refelected in the fact that a perfect air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 requires the use of 14.7 units of nitrous to 1 unit of fuel.
Propane requires 1 unit fuel to 14.7 units of air, get the picture?
(i.e., will last for hours if used in moderation)
If anyone has any input/questions, I am open to discussion, so feel free to contact me................................(ooo)\>_

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That is awesome!! So what do you use for your nozzle?? I always wondered why people didn't use propane injection in sleds. Keep posting results and stuff, this is some interesting stuff.

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Ok
On the top of the carb boots there are ports for mounting the nozzles, which is where the boost bottle or balance tube is usually mounted.
I just used a pair of 3/8" mip x 1/8" hose barb fittings to extend the discharge of the propane directly into the center of the air flow, thus- a more thorought mixing effect than dumpung it in at the ceiling of the boot. The "nozzles" are threaded into a 3/8" coupling, which fits the bore size of the boot ports perfectly.The top of the couplings have 3/8 MIP" x 3/8 hose fittings to allow the use of 3/8" fuel line up to the tee, then over to the solenoid valve on the belt guard.
It really is a rudimentry setup, very simple by design, and VERY functional.
I would start off with a "stock" torch valve /tank setup. which can be purchased at any hardware store, Walmart, etc.-usually areound $15 to $20 for the torch kit.
I have modified a torch valve by drilling out the orifices to around .060, but that modification puts out ALOT of fog.
By the way, be sure to mount the bottle uphill, to tap vapor, not liquid. You will get some liquid when accelerating, due to the laws of physics / inertia.
Like I stated before, I am still in a Research and Development stage, and have not yet perfected the setup, although it is fun to work on.
This project evolved from my home generator, while I was contemplating what I would need to perform an LP conversion to a Briggs and Stratton 8hp engine.
I was thinking about the generator conversion setup while looking at my sled,and then it occured to me to try it on the sled FIRST.
So.... here we are.
Let me know what you guys are thinking, the more people working on this concept,the greater the idea base.

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interesting stuf:)

i tried almost the same thing with my nitro rc. i sprayed lighter refil onto the airfilter, and the engine ran without fuel, just with the propane/butane...:)

upload some pics too:)

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