 |
Home Forum Polaris
|
Problem getting Track Tensioners to move
- 1989 Indy 650
started by fredro
|
|
|
|
September 29th 2008 at 10:23 AM
|
|
| |
|
fredro
huh?
|
85 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: November 14th 2005
Location: ostrander, ohio, USA
Current Sled: 1989 Polaris 650,76 TT340
Miles Last Season: 320
Miles This Season: 0
|
|
|
|
| |
guys, Track tensioners seemed to be seezed up, I am afraid I am going to snap the bolts. Tried PB Blaster to loosen with no results, any suggestions?
Thanks guys!
Full Throttle
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
| |
Site Supporter
Group: Site Supporters
|
|
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
|
September 29th 2008 at 2:39 PM
|
|
| |
|
bklf7
Junior Member
|
195 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: April 27th 2006
Location: Orford, NH, USA
|
|
|
|
| |
try backing them out and run a tap down it
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
|
September 29th 2008 at 2:50 PM
|
|
| |
|
polaris91
Got snow?
polaris91 is awaiting his new billet wheels.
Updated Sunday at 4:05 PM
|
2807 Posts    
Group: Members
Member Since: March 9th 2006
Location: bridgeport, new york, USA
Current Sled: 1991 indymod/2005 xcsp600
Miles Last Season: 1,985
Miles This Season: no snowyet
|
|
|
|
| |
did you loosed the lock nuts? worse case senareo if they do snap you can just get new bolts
1991 indy trail mod bored.20over, ported and polished, cluched and geared, chaincase/brakes/jackshaft from 93 xlt, headlight cover, teather, some custom painting, black skid plate, blue running board trim, fox shocks, blue/gray powermadd handguards, 2 in powermadd riser, fly bars/barpad,blue leds(underglow),1 in lug track, teather mount from a 96xcr440,blue guage bulbs, blue c&as, xtra 10 rear, and edge seat and tank.
2005 xcsp 600, chrome windy, stripped decals, 3.5 inch rox riser, powermadd handguards, c&a ultra 3 skis,1.25 camoplast preditor slp can fly bars/barpad xeon headlight bulbs and rsi barhooks shorty seat odi grips slp can brown clutch spring
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
|
September 29th 2008 at 4:13 PM
[ Modified September 29th 2008 at 4:14 PM
]
|
|
| |
|
01ves800
Junior Member
01ves800 the firecat lives again the poo is almost done to.
Updated Saturday at 7:37 AM
|
277 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: October 23rd 2007
Location: Erie, pa, USA
Current Sled: 01 xcsp800 ves
Miles Last Season: 1,713
Miles This Season: 78
|
|
|
|
| |
I had this problem on a 91 sks 500 the tensioner bolts were seized in the aluminum. We Sprayed them with blaster for a couple of days with no avail and heated them. Since steel exspands when its heated and aluminum doesnt wait for it to cool to try to break it free, this somtimes breaks the rust between the two surfaces worked on one side of ours and the other we ended up actually cutting the aluminum block that has the threads in it for the tensioner bolt off and replacing it. We took it somewere and had them weld a new piece on and reathreaded it. PITA. But worked good after all said and done.Thats why every season the entire skid comes out of every sled and all bolts get approperiot fluid. loktite or anti seize goes on every bolt.
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
|
September 29th 2008 at 5:40 PM
[ Modified September 29th 2008 at 5:41 PM
]
|
|
| |
mrholmquist
Junior Member
|
253 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: December 15th 2003
Location: cobourg, on, Canada
|
|
|
|
| |
Just replace the block , it's not too much money as I recall.
Polaris PN:
5130530 Block
7515455 Bolt
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
|
October 1st 2008 at 2:54 PM
[ Modified October 1st 2008 at 2:57 PM
]
|
|
| |
|
dodger
WEDGE RIDER
|
904 Posts  
Group: Members
Member Since: October 24th 2003
Location: Central, Michigan, USA
|
|
|
|
| |
^^^^ Quality info...I have replaced the blocks before. If I remember right I used 1/4-20 bolts to put the new ones on the rails ....Make sure you use nylock nuts on the backside though.
I've never had a ten But I've had 5 two's
GARAGE FULL OF WEDGIES
1998 XC 700
1998 XC 600
1998 XCR 440
1998 XCF 440
1997 SKS 700
2003 Pro X oops thats an "edgie"
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
|
October 1st 2008 at 7:40 PM
|
|
| |
|
Luke
Average Member
|
582 Posts  
Group: Members
Member Since: November 27th 2005
Location: Rotterdam, NY, USA
Current Sled: 1998 XC 700
Miles Last Season: 600
Miles This Season: waiting...
|
|
|
|
| |
Quote originally posted by 01ves800
I had this problem on a 91 sks 500 the tensioner bolts were seized in the aluminum. We Sprayed them with blaster for a couple of days with no avail and heated them. Since steel exspands when its heated and aluminum doesnt wait for it to cool to try to break it free, this somtimes breaks the rust between the two surfaces worked on one side of ours and the other we ended up actually cutting the aluminum block that has the threads in it for the tensioner bolt off and replacing it. We took it somewere and had them weld a new piece on and reathreaded it. PITA. But worked good after all said and done.Thats why every season the entire skid comes out of every sled and all bolts get approperiot fluid. loktite or anti seize goes on every bolt.
Aluminum actually expands almost twice as much as steel. So heating it is a good idea but try to break it loose while its still hot.
The heat might not be enough though. Heres my method of attack: heat torsion and impact all at the same time. Use a propane torch so you wont melt anything and while you have the box end of your wrench on the bolt twist it as much as you darem then repeatedly tap the head of the bolt with a ball-peen hammer. The twisting force and the impact combined is you best bet and the heat will def help ur cause. Plus, torches are cool.
Once you get it out, chase the threads with a tap and LIBERALLY apply nevercease to the aluminum, nut, and bolt.
Good Luck
I fix it nice, cause I fix it twice!
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
0 user(s) are reading this topic (0 Members and
0 Guests)
Current members reading this topic are:
|
 |