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94 indy 500 efi
- runability problems
started by frdmustang92
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January 3rd 2009 at 5:03 PM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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Quote originally posted by 71rdrnr
Is that your battery voltage under load??? If not What is your voltage under load??
with engine off battery volts were 12.1 with it idling its 13.3 and at 3000 rpms its 14.3 it takes a while to start and wile cranking battery volts drop to 11.7
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January 3rd 2009 at 9:24 PM
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Shrapnel
Brown November. :(
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204 Posts 
Group: Members
Member Since: December 28th 2007
Location: Alberta, Canada
Current Sled: 500 SKS EFI
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check your voltage past the breaker and at your rectifier. also at your relays
eat my pow'.
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January 4th 2009 at 6:58 AM
[ Modified January 4th 2009 at 7:02 AM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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where is the breakers and the rectifier i dont see them
ive been thinking im wondering if i have a different problem altogether then this computer chip issue. this thing ran beautiful when i first got it i drove it before i bought it yoyu hit the throttle and it went. this problem slowly accured so im wondering if its something else i hate buying stock exhaust and computer to find out it does the same thing stil?
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January 4th 2009 at 9:13 AM
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mrholmquist
Junior Member
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500 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 15th 2003
Location: cobourg, on, Canada
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I think you may well have other problems as well , you are talking about fouling plugs and sporatic running. The sled seems to be kinda messed up in a few ways. However you have to correct all the problems one at a time and systematically. The first thing to correct is any fault codes you may have as the temp sensors effect the ammount of fuel the engine receives and if it cant do this properly it will always be causing you aggravation. When you put nwe plugs in it seems to go ok at first but soon it starts to act up. We have to stop it from fouling plugs. In short I can't guarantee the rom chip and pipe will fix your problems but it definitely is a step in the right direction
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January 4th 2009 at 9:31 AM
[ Modified January 4th 2009 at 9:36 AM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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Quote originally posted by mrholmquist
I think you may well have other problems as well , you are talking about fouling plugs and sporatic running. The sled seems to be kinda messed up in a few ways. However you have to correct all the problems one at a time and systematically. The first thing to correct is any fault codes you may have as the temp sensors effect the ammount of fuel the engine receives and if it cant do this properly it will always be causing you aggravation. When you put nwe plugs in it seems to go ok at first but soon it starts to act up. We have to stop it from fouling plugs. In short I can't guarantee the rom chip and pipe will fix your problems but it definitely is a step in the right direction
ok today im going to get a new battery cause mine as been marked year 2000 and im going to hook up a fuel pressure gauge just for precaution to see what kind of fuel pressure there is. and wait to see if i win the computer ill let you know later about fuel pressure and if the new battery did anything. plus what are the adjustments inside the computer under the plugs theres a srcew adj. and what looks like a vacume port?
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January 4th 2009 at 10:23 AM
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mrholmquist
Junior Member
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500 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 15th 2003
Location: cobourg, on, Canada
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the vac port is for the barometric pressure sensor ...no hose goes on it . the adj screw is for adjusting the mixture ....do not touch it unless you have a sleect monitor hooked up
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January 4th 2009 at 1:09 PM
[ Modified January 4th 2009 at 1:10 PM
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Slojoegottago
Starting Member
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8 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: January 2nd 2009
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[/quote]
Try replacing the filters under the airfilter box....And clean the sensor on the inside of the filter box w carb cleaner get all the varnish off that puppy so the sensor can send a clean signal back to the ecu.....Replace plugs, And replace your battery ...I did this to mine with similar problems ..and now it run great and idles at 1800 all day long till i mash on it ........................When in Doubt Gas it out....
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January 4th 2009 at 4:43 PM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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Quote originally posted by mrholmquist
the vac port is for the barometric pressure sensor ...no hose goes on it . the adj screw is for adjusting the mixture ....do not touch it unless you have a sleect monitor hooked up
i removed air box and throttle bodys air box is a mes on the inside air filter gummed up and air temp sensor dirty ill be cleaning all of that stuff plus new fuel filters.
by chance do you know what sensor that is that is mounted next to the fuel pump mount to the frame and its aluminum byh the looks and has 3 wires.
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January 4th 2009 at 5:32 PM
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Shrapnel
Brown November. :(
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204 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 28th 2007
Location: Alberta, Canada
Current Sled: 500 SKS EFI
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Quote originally posted by frdmustang92
Quote originally posted by mrholmquist
the vac port is for the barometric pressure sensor ...no hose goes on it . the adj screw is for adjusting the mixture ....do not touch it unless you have a sleect monitor hooked up
i removed air box and throttle bodys air box is a mes on the inside air filter gummed up and air temp sensor dirty ill be cleaning all of that stuff plus new fuel filters.
by chance do you know what sensor that is that is mounted next to the fuel pump mount to the frame and its aluminum byh the looks and has 3 wires.
that would bethe droping resistor, it lowers the voltage for the injectors. the breaker and rectifier should be under your batery box,
eat my pow'.
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January 4th 2009 at 6:40 PM
[ Modified January 4th 2009 at 6:41 PM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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Quote originally posted by Shrapnel
Quote originally posted by frdmustang92
Quote originally posted by mrholmquist
the vac port is for the barometric pressure sensor ...no hose goes on it . the adj screw is for adjusting the mixture ....do not touch it unless you have a sleect monitor hooked up
i removed air box and throttle bodys air box is a mes on the inside air filter gummed up and air temp sensor dirty ill be cleaning all of that stuff plus new fuel filters.
by chance do you know what sensor that is that is mounted next to the fuel pump mount to the frame and its aluminum byh the looks and has 3 wires.
that would bethe droping resistor, it lowers the voltage for the injectors. the breaker and rectifier should be under your batery box,
breaker and rectifier mounted next to the chain case thanks for verifing other unit
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January 4th 2009 at 10:50 PM
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FuelieRXL
1991 Indy 400
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189 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: June 27th 2008
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Current Sled: 1996 RXL & 1991 Indy 400
2008-2009 Miles: 370 each
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Quote originally posted by frdmustang92
Quote originally posted by mrholmquist
I think you may well have other problems as well , you are talking about fouling plugs and sporatic running. The sled seems to be kinda messed up in a few ways. However you have to correct all the problems one at a time and systematically. The first thing to correct is any fault codes you may have as the temp sensors effect the ammount of fuel the engine receives and if it cant do this properly it will always be causing you aggravation. When you put nwe plugs in it seems to go ok at first but soon it starts to act up. We have to stop it from fouling plugs. In short I can't guarantee the rom chip and pipe will fix your problems but it definitely is a step in the right direction
ok today im going to get a new battery cause mine as been marked year 2000 and im going to hook up a fuel pressure gauge just for precaution to see what kind of fuel pressure there is. and wait to see if i win the computer ill let you know later about fuel pressure and if the new battery did anything. plus what are the adjustments inside the computer under the plugs theres a srcew adj. and what looks like a vacume port?
Question, is the oil pump arm moving freely when you move the throttle lever?
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January 5th 2009 at 5:47 PM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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Quote originally posted by FuelieRXL
Quote originally posted by frdmustang92
Quote originally posted by mrholmquist
I think you may well have other problems as well , you are talking about fouling plugs and sporatic running. The sled seems to be kinda messed up in a few ways. However you have to correct all the problems one at a time and systematically. The first thing to correct is any fault codes you may have as the temp sensors effect the ammount of fuel the engine receives and if it cant do this properly it will always be causing you aggravation. When you put nwe plugs in it seems to go ok at first but soon it starts to act up. We have to stop it from fouling plugs. In short I can't guarantee the rom chip and pipe will fix your problems but it definitely is a step in the right direction
ok today im going to get a new battery cause mine as been marked year 2000 and im going to hook up a fuel pressure gauge just for precaution to see what kind of fuel pressure there is. and wait to see if i win the computer ill let you know later about fuel pressure and if the new battery did anything. plus what are the adjustments inside the computer under the plugs theres a srcew adj. and what looks like a vacume port?
Question, is the oil pump arm moving freely when you move the throttle lever?
yes it moves frely. put everything back together cleaned everything still runs like crap i guess ill wait to get stock computer and exhaust.
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January 6th 2009 at 3:58 PM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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just a question what happens when grank seals go bad anyway to test them ive just heard from people having problems one was on a polaris 600 tripple?
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January 6th 2009 at 4:28 PM
[ Modified January 6th 2009 at 4:30 PM
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indyEFI
Starting Member
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26 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: January 6th 2009
Current Sled: 93 indy 500 efi
2008-2009 Miles: 250 so far
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Quote originally posted by 97680sp
check your battery it needs to be full charge and charging properly, i would also check your choke cable my sled is idling high like that and if i wiggle my choke lever around it comes back down where it should be mine needs to be lubed i think its just sticky. you might also check your crank seals!
97680sp efi dont have a choke
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January 6th 2009 at 6:00 PM
[ Modified January 6th 2009 at 6:05 PM
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hondaman650
Starting Member
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1 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: January 6th 2009
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boys i got a 95 500 efi and my headlight and tach will sometimes work and sometimes wont?
Quote originally posted by frdmustang92
just a question what happens when grank seals go bad anyway to test them ive just heard from people having problems one was on a polaris 600 tripple?
spray bit of either on the seal while engine is running if it idles up seal is bad
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January 6th 2009 at 9:04 PM
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FuelieRXL
1991 Indy 400
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189 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: June 27th 2008
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Current Sled: 1996 RXL & 1991 Indy 400
2008-2009 Miles: 370 each
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Quote originally posted by hondaman650
boys i got a 95 500 efi and my headlight and tach will sometimes work and sometimes wont?
That's a bad ground or connection on the lighting circuit. The tach and lights are powered by the lighting coil. If the lighting coil were bad, they wouldn't work at all.
Quote originally posted by frdmustang92
just a question what happens when grank seals go bad anyway to test them ive just heard from people having problems one was on a polaris 600 tripple?
spray bit of either on the seal while engine is running if it idles up seal is bad
Yes that would help detect a seal leak around the crank. Just make sure you are spraying it away from the throttle body intakes toward the front of the snowmobile, the mist from spraying can get inside the throttle bodies and give you a false positive for a bad seal. The downside is that you will have a problem getting to the seal under the flywheel this way.
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January 7th 2009 at 8:47 PM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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iv been told that i dont have a seal problem. iget computer tommorow so ill try that and see what happens
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January 8th 2009 at 6:31 PM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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well i have no clue the sled still runs like crap put new computer and stock exhaust starts up idles at 3000 give it gas and just bogs im stumped have no clue
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January 8th 2009 at 6:51 PM
[ Modified January 8th 2009 at 6:53 PM
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mrholmquist
Junior Member
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500 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 15th 2003
Location: cobourg, on, Canada
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Quote originally posted by frdmustang92
well i have no clue the sled still runs like crap put new computer and stock exhaust starts up idles at 3000 give it gas and just bogs im stumped have no clue
Ok but no more codes ?
now we can get back to checking and perhaps re-adjusting the TPS. You can do this by monitoring the signal voltage at the ECU with a digital voltmeter
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January 8th 2009 at 7:11 PM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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Quote originally posted by mrholmquist
Quote originally posted by frdmustang92
well i have no clue the sled still runs like crap put new computer and stock exhaust starts up idles at 3000 give it gas and just bogs im stumped have no clue
Ok but no more codes ?
now we can get back to checking and perhaps re-adjusting the TPS. You can do this by monitoring the signal voltage at the ECU with a digital voltmeter
no codes the tps can cause my problem what wires do i use at ecu for the tps and what should the voltage be
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January 9th 2009 at 8:10 AM
[ Modified January 9th 2009 at 8:14 AM
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mrholmquist
Junior Member
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500 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 15th 2003
Location: cobourg, on, Canada
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Ok
First off you need to be aware of the range your digital voltmeter is capable of reading. We want to test some very low voltages and the lowest range that you can set your meter to is best but it must be capable of reading up to 5v DC. In other words the 10 v scale is better than the 100 v scale but the 2 volt scale is not acceptable. If your meter is the autoranging type that is fine but pay attention to what range it sets itself to and be aware it may change ranges on you in the middle of a test depending on the impedence value.
Connect the black lead of your voltmeter to the battery negative terminal. Locate the TPS three terminal connector and without unplugging it carefully backprobe the white wire with the red lead of the voltmeter. You may find it easier to push a paperclip up beside the wire and connect the lead of the meter to it. The engine does not have to be running to do these tests but the computer has to be powered up. Just pull the cord once to wakeup the ECU and it should stay active for about 10 minutes. This will be more than enough time for you to do this test. When the throttle is released (idle position) you should expect to see between .583 and .635 volts. As slowly as you can open the throttle while watching the meter making sure the voltage climbs steadily and evenly with no radical jumps or skips anywhere in the range until the throttle is wide open.
If you do not get the voltage I specified at idle but the voltage does climb steadily and evenly when you open the throttle you can try to adjust it.
Loosen the two small screws on the TPS and you should be able to rotate the sensor , try to adjust it so your voltage is between
.583 and .635 volts with the throttle in the idle position. If youcan't adjust the voltage anywhere near these numbers it is a good indication that the throttle sensor is defective
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January 9th 2009 at 6:57 PM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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Quote originally posted by mrholmquist
Ok
First off you need to be aware of the range your digital voltmeter is capable of reading. We want to test some very low voltages and the lowest range that you can set your meter to is best but it must be capable of reading up to 5v DC. In other words the 10 v scale is better than the 100 v scale but the 2 volt scale is not acceptable. If your meter is the autoranging type that is fine but pay attention to what range it sets itself to and be aware it may change ranges on you in the middle of a test depending on the impedence value.
Connect the black lead of your voltmeter to the battery negative terminal. Locate the TPS three terminal connector and without unplugging it carefully backprobe the white wire with the red lead of the voltmeter. You may find it easier to push a paperclip up beside the wire and connect the lead of the meter to it. The engine does not have to be running to do these tests but the computer has to be powered up. Just pull the cord once to wakeup the ECU and it should stay active for about 10 minutes. This will be more than enough time for you to do this test. When the throttle is released (idle position) you should expect to see between .583 and .635 volts. As slowly as you can open the throttle while watching the meter making sure the voltage climbs steadily and evenly with no radical jumps or skips anywhere in the range until the throttle is wide open.
If you do not get the voltage I specified at idle but the voltage does climb steadily and evenly when you open the throttle you can try to adjust it.
Loosen the two small screws on the TPS and you should be able to rotate the sensor , try to adjust it so your voltage is between
.583 and .635 volts with the throttle in the idle position. If youcan't adjust the voltage anywhere near these numbers it is a good indication that the throttle sensor is defective
ok i believe i found my problem for starters both crank seals are shot exspecially the stator side plus the stater was loose flopping around there are marks so they must be timming marks those being off could srew things up and last but not least both crank bearings on clutch swide just fell appart so hopefully all this being fix will take care of my issues my local polaris dealer stocks everything. good thing cause we are getting 10+ inches of snow this weekend
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January 10th 2009 at 4:11 PM
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frdmustang92
Starting Member
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42 Posts
Group: Members
Member Since: December 27th 2008
Location: elmira, ny
Current Sled: 99 mxz 670 ho
2008-2009 Miles: 1100
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put it all togeather today everything went smooth until the oil injection drive gear dropped out of my hand and broke when it hit the floor had to order one which sucks cause we have all this snow coming down and all i can do is watch it.
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