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93 xlt sp. not running properly - need help started by dand
January 2nd 2009 at 8:33 PM
 
dand
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Well I just spent the day cleaning carbs, replacing the fuel filter and cleaning out the fuel tank. I set the air screws to 1 turn and the fuel screw to 1.5 turns on each carb.

This sled ran really nice a few years ago and one cold day i was out riding and tipped the sled and it started to foul off plugs. I can't remember now what i did to fix that but it did work a bit better after that never the same tho.

Right now it has been backfiring a little, thick exhaust, it's idling high now and when it idles it needs help(choke) to stay going and it sounds like it's running on 2 of the 3 cylinders when idling. When I hit the throttle it bogs down. I did notice that when i covered the air box with my hand to cut the air and rev it up it revs normal. I think when i cover the air box with my hand while it idling dies down.

Any ideas? If i think of something else thats it's doing wrong i'll add it.




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January 2nd 2009 at 10:37 PM
 
TriumphoverU
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ok, first i've gotta say, that you have air screws and idle screws. the round slide mikuni's do not have fuel screws.

first i'd have to say try a new set of plugs to make sure they arent the problem. Next i'd say you need to sync your carbs. and finally from what your saying it sounds like your running lean, (i.e. cover air box and revs normal, and a high idle) But without verifying proper carb sync, you cant figure out any sort of jetting issues.



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January 3rd 2009 at 12:00 AM
 
dand
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Quote originally posted by TriumphoverU

ok, first i've gotta say, that you have air screws and idle screws. the round slide mikuni's do not have fuel screws.

first i'd have to say try a new set of plugs to make sure they arent the problem. Next i'd say you need to sync your carbs. and finally from what your saying it sounds like your running lean, (i.e. cover air box and revs normal, and a high idle) But without verifying proper carb sync, you cant figure out any sort of jetting issues.


Thats what i meant.

There are brand new plugs and what would you sync them to, as a starting position. i wanna do it right. i just tried it again and i covered the air box while idling and it didn't change alot. it still sounds like its not firing on all cylinders even with it covered. but as soon as i rev er up with the box covered there is no hesitation and it goes and sounds normal. but as soon as i get to idling again with or with out the box covered it doesn't sound like its running properly and it's idling at 3000. So any help on where to go from here would be awesome. i have to admit i m not the most experienced guy with carbs but i'm hoping it's not too far off

Thanks for your time by the way.




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January 3rd 2009 at 7:23 AM
 
hunter31
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Quote originally posted by dand
Quote originally posted by TriumphoverU

ok, first i've gotta say, that you have air screws and idle screws. the round slide mikuni's do not have fuel screws.

first i'd have to say try a new set of plugs to make sure they arent the problem. Next i'd say you need to sync your carbs. and finally from what your saying it sounds like your running lean, (i.e. cover air box and revs normal, and a high idle) But without verifying proper carb sync, you cant figure out any sort of jetting issues.


Thats what i meant.

There are brand new plugs and what would you sync them to, as a starting position. i wanna do it right. i just tried it again and i covered the air box while idling and it didn't change alot. it still sounds like its not firing on all cylinders even with it covered. but as soon as i rev er up with the box covered there is no hesitation and it goes and sounds normal. but as soon as i get to idling again with or with out the box covered it doesn't sound like its running properly and it's idling at 3000. So any help on where to go from here would be awesome. i have to admit i m not the most experienced guy with carbs but i'm hoping it's not too far off

Thanks for your time by the way.


I am having the same problem with my 96.... Today I am going to try to adjust the choke I think that may be the problem.




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January 3rd 2009 at 10:24 AM
 
dand
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let me know how that goes.




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January 3rd 2009 at 12:10 PM
 
dand
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i should also add the backfiring is happening through the exhaust. and also i turned the air screw down a 1/4 turn then another 1/4 turn and it didn't help it made it worse to start and it started backfiring more and the exhaust was thicker as well. Could it be the CDI or some sort of timing issue more than anything? I will take the carbs apart again if i have to to check the pilot jets but i'm trying to avoid it.ha




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January 3rd 2009 at 12:41 PM
 
darcy32171
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Pull the carbs apart and really clean them good, especially the idle ciruit(pilot jets and passages). When you put them in the sled,to sync the carbs make sure you don`t adjust the idle screw(leave it out aways to make sure the slides bottom out in the carb. Adjust the cables to make sure the slides all move the same time and make sure the slides go "all the way to the top". Then adjust the idle screw(screw in till it just touches the slides,then two additional turns). Then fine tune the adjustments until you have the proper throttle lever free play. Once you have this all done, check and make sure the factory scribe marks on the oil pump line up(easier now while the airbox is off). Adjust the choke plungers so they are seated about 5/16" when lever is off.




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January 3rd 2009 at 1:30 PM
 
440_jag
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sure you didnt fry a cylinder when you were riding it with a lean mixture.

maybe you need to read just you floats



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January 3rd 2009 at 2:44 PM
 
mrholmquist
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it is back firing inthe exhaust because it is misfiring . Fuel is making it through the engine without being burned and into the exhaust system where it is subsequently being ignited and this is the backfiring you are hearing . Start with a compression test. while you are doing that make note of the color and condition of the spark plugs which should give you an indication of how each cylinder is burning.




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January 7th 2009 at 4:45 PM
 
dand
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well i've got it to the point now where it idles fine. It's still a little smokey and I can't get it to run normally without a little choke to get er going and its still a little smokey. When I don't use the choke it just boggs down and if i just hammered on it, it would just die out. Any ideas where to go from here?




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January 7th 2009 at 5:52 PM
 
93polarisxlt
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compression test?




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January 7th 2009 at 6:16 PM
 
bgbytor800
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I had simular issue and clean carbs and pilot jets no luck
Put in NEW needle and seats and BAM ran and started great!
not saying this will do it but I was told this is overlooked by a Seasoned Polaris Mech
Just a thought!
Good Luck




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January 7th 2009 at 7:39 PM
 
MicahMan
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first do a compression test. you are getting fuel through the exhaust cause it isnt being burnt up. if the compression is good go get the carbs syncronized by a professional, cost me $35 at my local sled shop. and put a new set of plugs in there. mine went throgh plugs like a lil plug monster before i broke down and got mine syncd

if you run that xlt with the carbs not in tune you will fry that motor sooner or later.

just out of curiosity how many miles are on your motor?



93 polaris indy xlt special & 88 polaris indy 650 race addition & a few old beaters

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January 8th 2009 at 9:01 AM
 
dand
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ya i think im gonna take er in and get a shop to look at it. get some direction or just let them do it now. I've got it to the point that i could do some changes but it's stabs in the dark. I wanna make sure it gets running.

It has about 2200 miles.




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January 8th 2009 at 9:50 AM
 
Tredeb
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Set the height of the slides by putting the proper sized drill bit on the bottom of the bore. Someone on here will be able to tell you the size. I sync my carbs by feel. Get the proper cable slack set for the center carb then by touching the slides with your fingers, you can adjust when the outside carbs start to pull. It may seem crude, but you can feel the slightest difference when they are out of sync.

I'm not sure where to start on the air screw, but it should say under your hood.

One other thing to note, on my wife XLT, it is easy to cross 2 of the plug wires as the coils are not up on top of the engine. It will run with them switched.



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January 8th 2009 at 10:45 AM
 
dand
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whats the proper pattern for the plug wires. Is it basically in order left to right or right to left.

and would you mind expanding some more about how to sync up the middle carb to the outside ones cause my middle one comes up a slight bit quick than the others. If my problem was the sync of the slides tho would that be the only reason it bogs possibly?

One other quick question to. How much do ya'll out there think it costs to rebuild the motor on this sled?




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January 8th 2009 at 12:01 PM
 
98700xcBB
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On the last XLT I worked on the plug wires went in order left to right, Don't use the unisyn to sync the carbs. Do them mechanically, throttle cables first, then idle screws. Set the idle screws all equal turns, air screws to 1 turn I beleive. It should be on the decal under the hood. Throttle cables so you have .030" freeplay gap at the lever to throttle block. All the slides should clear the bores of the carbs at full throttle, should start to move at the same time, and should reach the same point in travel together. I check that by at what point the cutaway clears the bore, it is an easier reference point to see. Oil pump adjusted so that when the slack is taken out of
the throttle, the line on the pump arm is slightly advanced past the line on the pump body.



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January 8th 2009 at 12:37 PM
 
MicahMan
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Quote originally posted by dand

ya i think im gonna take er in and get a shop to look at it. get some direction or just let them do it now. I've got it to the point that i could do some changes but it's stabs in the dark. I wanna make sure it gets running.

It has about 2200 miles.


yeah take it in and have them do it right. that way its not a guessing game weather you did it right or not.



93 polaris indy xlt special & 88 polaris indy 650 race addition & a few old beaters

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January 8th 2009 at 12:41 PM  [ Modified January 8th 2009 at 12:42 PM ]
 
98700xcBB
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OR. you can do it yourself. Take some pride in it. Learn something new. Trial and error.... one of the best ways to learn



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January 8th 2009 at 1:01 PM
 
Tredeb
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Quote originally posted by dand

whats the proper pattern for the plug wires. Is it basically in order left to right or right to left.

and would you mind expanding some more about how to sync up the middle carb to the outside ones cause my middle one comes up a slight bit quick than the others. If my problem was the sync of the slides tho would that be the only reason it bogs possibly?

One other quick question to. How much do ya'll out there think it costs to rebuild the motor on this sled?



The plug wires go in the same order as the coils. The only difference is that on my ultra, the coils are up on top and on the XLT, they are below so there is a chance to cross the wires. there is no trick, just make sure they are right.

I had to readjust my carbs when I extended My throttle cable. I did it as follows:

1. Loosen all cables so that there is slack in the cables.
2. Adjust the height of the slides by placing the proper sized drill bit underneath the slides.
3. Tighten the center cable until you have the proper slack in the throttle.
4. using the center carb as reference, run the throttle while touching the slides in the center carb and one of the outside carbs.
5. Adjust the ouside carb so it opens at the same time as the center carb.
6. Do the same for the other outside carb.
7. As mentioned, verify that they are opening all the way.

I don't have the details for your sled, but someone should be able to tell you the proper sized bit.



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1998 Yamaha Bravo long track
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January 8th 2009 at 1:12 PM
 
ACEXLT
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There is no "firing order" it doesn't matter which plug wire goes where.



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January 8th 2009 at 3:54 PM
 
Tredeb
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Quote originally posted by ACEXLT

There is no "firing order" it doesn't matter which plug wire goes where.


How does that work? The pistons are 120º apart.



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January 8th 2009 at 4:10 PM
 
mrholmquist
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all three coils fire every 120 degrees




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January 9th 2009 at 11:32 AM
 
Tredeb
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Quote originally posted by mrholmquist

all three coils fire every 120 degrees


How does that work? I never have thought about it much, I just assumed that there was a firing order. I can see how an extra ignition would not affect much on the downstroke, but on the upstroke, the fuel/gas for the next powerstroke is already in the cylinder. I don't understand how it would not detonate.

Sorry to hijack.



2009 Arctic Cat Crossfire 8 SP
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January 9th 2009 at 3:09 PM  [ Modified January 9th 2009 at 3:10 PM ]
 
mrholmquist
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Quote originally posted by Tredeb
Quote originally posted by mrholmquist

all three coils fire every 120 degrees


How does that work? I never have thought about it much, I just assumed that there was a firing order. I can see how an extra ignition would not affect much on the downstroke, but on the upstroke, the fuel/gas for the next powerstroke is already in the cylinder. I don't understand how it would not detonate.

Sorry to hijack.


The ports are wide open at this moment in time which means there is no compression pressure. Remember this is a two stroke not a four stroke. No compression means no combustion.




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