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2001 ZR 800 clutch problems!

This is a discussion on 2001 ZR 800 clutch problems! within the Arctic Cat forums, part of the Brand Specific Snowmobile Discussion category; Ok, my son's sled, clutch internal spider cracked, I downloaded a manual and bought a puller and spanner wrench as suggested. When we went to ...

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Thread: 2001 ZR 800 clutch problems!

  1. #1
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    Sonic340TS's Avatar
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    Ok, my son's sled, clutch internal spider cracked, I downloaded a manual and bought a puller and spanner wrench as suggested. When we went to take off the bolt and lock washer holding the drive clutch off the internal sleeve just turns even with the spanner whench holding the outside of the clutch??? WTH. How do I hold the engine from tuning over? I heard that you can put rope down in the cylinder but that seems scary! Any thoughts. How about the same thing when we take of the inner?

    Thanks

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    Hard to tell for sure, but it sounds like the spyder has unthreaded itself
    from the stationary sheave. If this is the case, you may be able to thread it back on,
    and use your spanner wrench to hold it while removeing the bolt. If its cracked,
    and has been moveing on the shaft, there may not be enough threads left in it
    for this to work.

    Another option, hold the stationary half from turning with a pair of good gloves,
    while one of you raps the handle of your breaker bar with a hammer to break the bolt loose.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cat-sass
    Hard to tell for sure, but it sounds like the spyder has unthreaded itself
    from the stationary sheave. If this is the case, you may be able to thread it back on,
    and use your spanner wrench to hold it while removeing the bolt. If its cracked,
    and has been moveing on the shaft, there may not be enough threads left in it
    for this to work.

    Another option, hold the stationary half from turning with a pair of good gloves,
    while one of you raps the handle of your breaker bar with a hammer to break the bolt loose.
    Thanks, I will try that and update my progress!


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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic340TS
    Quote Originally Posted by cat-sass
    Hard to tell for sure, but it sounds like the spyder has unthreaded itself
    from the stationary sheave. If this is the case, you may be able to thread it back on,
    and use your spanner wrench to hold it while removeing the bolt. If its cracked,
    and has been moveing on the shaft, there may not be enough threads left in it
    for this to work.

    Another option, hold the stationary half from turning with a pair of good gloves,
    while one of you raps the handle of your breaker bar with a hammer to break the bolt loose.
    Thanks, I will try that and update my progress!

    Nope, I could not get the spider to even move and it is still just spinning internaly. I did get the nut and lock washer off with 4 hands and a hammer, as you suggested. Now my next problem is how to hold the engine from turning over when I use the puller??

    Any more help would be greatly appreciated.


  5. #5
    is took the sled out today...pure
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    Blackcat's Avatar
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    I've never pulled a sled clutch, however, I use alot of pullers and remove press fit components in alot of other unconventional ways at work so take this advice as you see fit.

    Impact wrenches are awesome, although it doesn't sound like you have that option. So pry bars are your next best friend. Combine that with the hitting the wrench with the hammer approach and you shouldn't have to worry about wrecking your clutch while being able to stop the engine from rotating.

    I'd prefer that method to putting rope in an engine any day.

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    Sonic340TS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackcat
    I've never pulled a sled clutch, however, I use alot of pullers and remove press fit components in alot of other unconventional ways at work so take this advice as you see fit.

    Impact wrenches are awesome, although it doesn't sound like you have that option. So pry bars are your next best friend. Combine that with the hitting the wrench with the hammer approach and you shouldn't have to worry about wrecking your clutch while being able to stop the engine from rotating.

    I'd prefer that method to putting rope in an engine any day.
    I put the puller with the grease like all the boards say but I can't hold the engine from turning over. A 2 foot breaker bar but I need to hold the engine![Disappointed]

    I told my son this is why I have vintage rotax, they make a flywheel holder![]



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    1/2 inch impact gun on the puller, may have to hold the clutch by hand.
    If it gets tight, and you can't hold it by hand, pick the hammer back up,
    and rap the end of the puller. Probably going to take a good smack.
    If it don't come right off, back the puller out about half the threads,
    make sure your compressor has caught up, and try again.

    Couple other "last ditch" methods:
    1)fill the clutch hole with grease,
    teflon tape on the puller, and try to remove.

    2)Find a bolt with the same threads as the puller,
    wrap with teflon tape, flip sled on its side,
    fill clutch hole with water, install bolt,
    leave sled outside for the night. water will expand
    when freezing and push your clutch off.

    3)Remove the clutch cover, spring, spyder and
    moveable sheave. then, carefully, with a grinder
    and cut-off wheel remove the stationary half.
    Be careful you don't get too close to the crank!!


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cat-sass
    1/2 inch impact gun on the puller, may have to hold the clutch by hand.
    If it gets tight, and you can't hold it by hand, pick the hammer back up,
    and rap the end of the puller. Probably going to take a good smack.
    If it don't come right off, back the puller out about half the threads,
    make sure your compressor has caught up, and try again.

    Couple other "last ditch" methods:
    1)fill the clutch hole with grease,
    teflon tape on the puller, and try to remove.

    2)Find a bolt with the same threads as the puller,
    wrap with teflon tape, flip sled on its side,
    fill clutch hole with water, install bolt,
    leave sled outside for the night. water will expand
    when freezing and push your clutch off.

    3)Remove the clutch cover, spring, spyder and
    moveable sheave. then, carefully, with a grinder
    and cut-off wheel remove the stationary half.
    Be careful you don't get too close to the crank!!

    Nothing is very easy![]

    I am going to try again tomorrow. I will start with #1 and let you all know.

    Thank you guys.

    Dave


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    I always use an air powered impact gun, drive the puller in good and tight, then usually 2 or 3 good hard smack's on the end of the puller with a nice heavy hammer will pop the clutch right off.

    Rick

  10. #10
    is took the sled out today...pure
    bliss
     
    Blackcat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic340TS
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackcat
    I've never pulled a sled clutch, however, I use alot of pullers and remove press fit components in alot of other unconventional ways at work so take this advice as you see fit.

    Impact wrenches are awesome, although it doesn't sound like you have that option. So pry bars are your next best friend. Combine that with the hitting the wrench with the hammer approach and you shouldn't have to worry about wrecking your clutch while being able to stop the engine from rotating.

    I'd prefer that method to putting rope in an engine any day.
    I put the puller with the grease like all the boards say but I can't hold the engine from turning over. A 2 foot breaker bar but I need to hold the engine![Disappointed]

    I told my son this is why I have vintage rotax, they make a flywheel holder![]
    I meant put the pry bar through the clutch to hold it. I had it written orginally, but I must have erased by accident when I went back through to edit my post...sorry.

    I actually had to do that tonight while putting the bolt back in the clutch (had removed it to compare bolts for a coworker that is putting a 9 tower on a VMAX)


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