how do i take tthe track off of and 1995 polaris xlt????????
This is a discussion on how do i take tthe track off of and 1995 polaris xlt???????? within the Polaris forums, part of the Brand Specific Snowmobile Discussion category; how do i take the track off of and 1995 polaris xlt .. i was wondering if someone can help me step by step or ...
is how do i start a new form ????
how do i take the track off of and 1995 polaris xlt .. i was wondering if someone can help me step by step or give me a link to show how to ???
pretty simple, here is a link with step by step! just did my 97 2 weeks ago. I would add, you don't need to remove the main bearing though to get it out, i just removed the chain and gears, and removed the speedo drive and bearing bracket, I did not need to remove the drive to get my track out, I just slid it up and their was enough room to get the track out (with sled resting on it's right side) you will see from this link.
You have the 4 cog (4 black driver wheels) driveshaft though, The chaincase needs to come off to get the driveshaft out. If you had the 2 cog you could leave the chaincase on
Whle you have the drive shaft out, I would recommend that you have the two outer drive wheels pressed off. I can do a track swap in 2 1/2 hours on those machines with two drivers and besides my 700 (much more power) only has two so those outside ones are really necessary.
is how do i start a new form ????
k how do i take the drive shaft out ?
take the skid out from the track (loosen rear bogey wheels and collapse rear torque arm)
take off chaincase cover, remove brake caliper, take out gears and chain. Take off the speedo drive unit and the bearing there (allen set screw)
Remove chaincase (needs to be pried off most of the time with a long lever/pry bar)
remove track tension on the driveshaft so you can slide the driveshaft all the way to the right so the left end of the driveshaft is free, then pull down and left until the right end of the driveshaft is free.
If the track is absolutely junk, cut the track off. It makes the process of freeing the driveshaft and getting the suspension out MUCH easier.
Sounds like this is your first time doing a track swap, I would have a buddy who has done it before help you out. It is a difficult task for a beginner. After doing it very often, you learn tips and tricks that make it easier. There are lots of washers and stuff in the chaincase that need to be kept track of too.
Short on Cash
is Just sold the sled for $850.
Now I don't have to worry
about it breaking again.
One way to make it easier is to tip the sled on its side first and take the chaincase cover off. then use a siphon to suck the oil out so it doesn't get all over the bottom of the sled. just one of those things that makes it just that little bit easier. Dont worry about the sled tipping over when its on its side though, from experience they are quite stable like that and get everything at a "not bending over sideways on your knees" level.
I agree with the put the sled on it's side, made the job much easier. at first I was worried but by the time I was half thru, I was just flipping it from one side to the other top get to the bolts as needed! also a trick I found on here was to use a ratchet strap to collapse the suspension, just wrap the strap around the skid and the top of the suspension tighten it up to collapse it to give you 2x the room and it then comes right out, it also helps to get it put back in, to put it back in I had to adjust my strap, tight or loose to get the bolts to line up in the chassis, the strap made this very easy!!
on mine it was impossible to do without a air impact though. I could not get my main skid bolts out without the impact. with the impact it was very easy!
Always impossible to get the skid mounting bolts out without an impact. Need the quick force to get the bolts out otherwise you're just turning the shaft and the bolt on the other end of the shaft stays attached.
Using ratchet straps to collapse the suspension is a more difficult way... Just unhook the torsion springs and swing them down and around and tuck them inside the rear most bogey wheels. It is possible to get the skid out with only the rear torque arm collapsed. But I suppose using a strap to collapse the front torque arm could make it easier.
I believe that the 95 xlt has a xtra-12. If this is the case there is no need to use straps as this suspension does not need to be compressed to remove or install. You only have to rest the rear of suspension on a block after the front arm is bolted in place. Then just lower the tunnel down until the suspension lines up with the bolt holes.
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