HOW TO: Set alignment, belt deflection and adjust polaris old style secondary
This is a discussion on HOW TO: Set alignment, belt deflection and adjust polaris old style secondary within the Clutching forums, part of the The Performance Tuning Shop category; phazer clutch over haul?? lets get someone to make a quick write up on setting this things without buying a tool.. and how the hell ...
phazer clutch over haul?? lets get someone to make a quick write up on setting this things without buying a tool.. and how the hell do i adjust the belt height on my secondary?? its sticking way out with my new belt.. what about the secondary.. is it supposed to have side to side play??
If it's an older polaris secondary without the external adjuster, to get the belt to sit down farther, you have to take the secondary apart and add a few shims in the inside. Adding shims moves the sheaves apart and will allow the belt to drop into the clutch more. Removing shims moves the sheaves together, pushing the belt out farther.
To check the offset without a tool, use a straight edge across the back of the primary and long enough to go past the secondary. Measure the distance from the straight edge. It should be 5/8". To change the offset, there are shims on the jackshaft near the jackshaft bearing and shims on the bolt that holds the clutch. If you need to move the clutch out to increase offset, remove the clutch, add a shim, then remove the same thickness shim from the bolt.
There should be some free play (1/16") of the clutch on the jackshaft. That helps in keeping the clutch aligned and also keeps the clutch from side-loading the jackshaft bearing.
and deflection? i heard to take your straight edge and lay it across the belt and push down as hard as possible and measure how far down it goes? should be 1 1/4" for polaris??
reason im asking is because my sled was just put back together and i rev it up on the stand and theres no problems.. but when i try to drive it boggs down.. my clucthes were not aligned and my belt sticks outta the secoindary past the threads.. plus the sled "creeps" a lot when its off the ground.. almost constantly
When you add a few shims to the inside of the secondary, the belt will slip down farther into the sheaves. That will increase the deflection and eliminate the creeping. Non-aligned clutches will really waste energy that could be used for pushing the sled (not to mention, wear and tear on the belt is greater!). You should have about 1/16" of belt outside the secondary, if more than that, add some shims in the secondary until you get the 1/16" (or deflection set to spec, which ever you prefer).
thanks guys.. looks like ill find some shims.. i also found out my carbs are completly wrong for my machine, so im getting some factory 500 carbs to see if it cures the issue
oh ya.. how many shims will i need approx? 1 or 2 or like 6-7?? any polaris number to use??
nevermind.. stock is 3 and they are like 50 cents each haha.. thanks guys
It's good to get both sizes,the one on the shaft is a different shim than the one on the clutch bolt... having a few of each works nice when you need 'em. Using a washer for the bolt works in a pinch, but the real shims won't corrode and muck things up inside the clutch...
so i checked my deflection is about an 1/8th too tight and the offset is at 7/8ths.. i guess adding a shim or two inside the secondary will A) add deflection and B) reduce my offset?? thanks guys
You won't be able to recover 1/4" offset using the shims inside the secondary. After you get the deflection set, you will need to remove some of the shims next to the jackshaft bearing and add the same amount to the bolt to pull the offset to 5/8". You will get much longer belt life and better gas mileage with the clutch set to spec, not to mention the sled will be faster