1992 Polaris Indy 500 EFI Snowmobile Problems with Bogging down but will go slow.
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1992 Polaris Indy 500 EFI Snowmobile Problems with Bogging down but will go slow.

This is a discussion on 1992 Polaris Indy 500 EFI Snowmobile Problems with Bogging down but will go slow. within the General forums, part of the Snowmobiles category; I have a 92 Polaris EFI snowmobile I bought with a problem that i thought i could fix. I drove it around and it went ...

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Thread: 1992 Polaris Indy 500 EFI Snowmobile Problems with Bogging down but will go slow.

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    1992 Polaris Indy 500 EFI Snowmobile Problems with Bogging down but will go slow.

    I have a 92 Polaris EFI snowmobile I bought with a problem that i thought i could fix. I drove it around and it went around 30mph and would not go any faster without bogging down. I took it to a shop but since there are not very many polaris dealers around anymore it was hard for them to diagnose problem. They though it was Pistons (replaced), CDI (replaced), spark plugs (replaced) they gave up on it and told me to pick it up..$500 later and still not running right had same bogging issues. I pulled the gas tank had some crud and old lines in it so i totally took out fished out some old lines and pieces of them, including an old float and replaced with new gas. Still had same bogging issue. Found that the brake disk had frayed some wire on harness, fixed them. Maybe thought was fuel pump or fuel lines. Pulled fuel pump out and works great, tested direct to battery, all fuel lines and filters replaced, Still had same bogging issues. Pulled throttle body off not in bad condition or coded with crap so spray with throttle body cleaner and put back on, still had same bogging issues. I think that it may be a EFI/ECU unit (which are so incredibly hard to find) or fuel injectors. Can anyone give me advice what to do next because all i can find are used EFI/ECU units on ebay and they are not guaranteed to work....I'm mechanically inclined, no torque tools though...please help need some experienced or technical advice. This snowmobile starts up with a half a pull and runs and idles great, but boggs down on half throttle around 30 mph.

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    jajardas's Avatar
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    MattyC. If you have a multi meter, the knowledge how to use it and the willingness to do so. I maybe able to help. First send me the model number off the tunnel so i can ensure we have the correct year. The 92, 93 and 94 up are all different the way the power the ECU. There are some things you can check right away. You need to have a perfect battery, check the voltage, check your compression. Do you have a fuel pressure tester? Just because the fuel pump runs does not mean it can supply the correct fuel. We will have to check fuel pressure and flow.
    JJ
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    3 Polaris MSX 140HO, 1999 Polaris SLX, 2001 Polaris Virage TXi
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    I do ....Let me guess you want me to test the throttle sensor or battery did both ....throttle i adjusted to 4.0 and battery is good. I have reggy its a 1992 1915945 JAA OLF18c 31171645....The ECU is throwing a couple codes but thats cuz i have the air box disconnected right now, and I'm extending the wire for the temp. sensor.....no compression tester but I can feel them lots ...no fuel pressure tester? unfortunately ...but things runs great...just bogs at half throttle but won't die...almost like a governer would do or like a car when reved all the way up the RPMs will bounce and but it won't open up.....tried spraying on the clutch drives both sides with carb cleaner to see if PTO seal ...saw this suggestion online...still no good....someone told me maybe leak in seals in motor ...did this before i went to the shop with it....they replaced seals and pistons and still does this....replaced dogs in the clutch..no good seems to be engaging fine...and goes in reverse smooth.....clueless...maybe bottom end of motor??? I don't know....

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    litterally will start with a half a pull first time everytime...unreal....runs get on the bottom half of 30mph....takes off good too so i have power.....getting oil to pulled line made sure filter was replaced from the oil injector...all good..

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    Pulled new plugs getting great spark which is expected with new CDI unit....ECU unit running good if its throwing codes correctly....Suggested i take muffler apart see if clogged no clogged and no leaks....?????help me help me...I'm clueless what it could be...I might have to man up and buy fuel pressure tester....injector are running good pulled them on a run and they are spraying pretty good...

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    Does it rev up properly without the belt on it, or if the track is held in the air on a track stand? If it does, it could be drivetrain drag.

    Definitely sounds like it could be symptoms of fuel starvation, check the fuel pressure.

    Pull the sensor off the airbox and plug it back in to the wiring harness, make sure that all the codes go away.

    Make sure that the can isn't clogged. I had a can for one of my sleds clog up, and it would cut the RPM by over 1,000 RPM at full throttle.
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    on track stand and took off stand same results......codes went away when i put both sensors temp and air back in.......can is clear took it off made sure... still has metal filter screens that are built into muffler....it not clogged coming out good and banged around good no rattling of anything... ...baffled at this point...thinking fuel pressure or bottom end motor maybe.... ...just don't know what else can i really try that don't cost me a arm and a leg?

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    All there is in the bottom end, is the case halves, oil pump, seals, bearings and crank.

    Case halves on a 500 wouldn't effect anything without a big hole in them.

    Oil pump would cause bearing failure. (see result below)

    Seals would cause a lean condition seizing the pistons. (and a lot of excess oil behind the clutch and stator)

    Bearings would just seize the motor, not limit RPM.

    Crank is the only thing I can imagine causing the issue, if it's the bottom end. (I'm still leaning toward fuel flow)

    You can check the crank with a pencil at least 6" long. (or a sharpie and any 6" or longer rod that fits in the spark plug hole that's 6" long or longer) Follow the procedure below.

    Take the plugs out and the belt off,

    Bring either piston to TDC[top dead center] (or close),

    Drop the pencil into the cylinder at TDC,

    Grab the clutch and turn it back and forth, until you find the point that the piston starts to drop, then find some point of the clutch near a bolt or something and mark on the clutch each end of the range where it stays at TDC, then mark the center.

    Without moving anything else drop the pencil to the other cylinder, that should be at BDC [bottom dead center], and mark the spots where it starts to rise, then find and mark the center.

    The 2 center marks should be really close. About 1/4" offset on the clutch = 3.6 degrees, that's the limit you want it to be out. Any farther will definitely effect performance in a negative manor.

    This can also be verified if you have one of them cheap temp guns like this: Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer With Laser Targeting

    Point that at the exhaust y-pipe right by the head, and check both cylinders. Start it cold, and keep going back and forth from pipe to pipe and watch it warm up. They should warm up fairly evenly (there will always be a little variation), but if one starts getting hot wile the other does not, the one that is staying cool is not firing properly.

    The recoil cylinder being cooler would lead me toward fuel pressure.

    The clutch cylinder being cooler would lean me toward crank.

    If you use the temp gun and swap the spark plug wires, and the cylinder that warms up switches, the problem is the ignition.
    Last edited by Ugly_old_Poo_kid; 10-29-2015 at 04:40 PM.
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    05 - Edge 800 Touring - Flying couch - SOLD
    03 - Edge 700 SKS - Warhead - in progress of another chassis rebuild.
    91 - 650 RXL SKS improved stock drag sled - Bastard Child

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    You have the same results on or off the stand correct? What codes are you getting? I am thinking it is fuel related. If the regulator is not working correctly it will allow to much fuel past and not hold pressure in the fuel rail. I have attached the test sheets for the fuel system. Are both cylinders firing? Like UOPK said check the y pipe do both of them heat up? I check right at the engine block right after I start the machine. You can use water drops at the same location on each side. The water should boil or steam off the same.

    Post back your codes,
    JJ
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    1994 Polaris 440
    1997 Polaris INDY EFI 500
    1999 Indy 500 XC
    2006 Polaris Fusion 600HO
    2006 FST PROJECT
    2007 FST IQ
    2008 FST IQ LX
    3 Polaris MSX 140HO, 1999 Polaris SLX, 2001 Polaris Virage TXi
    2002 PolarisVirage TXi, 1999 X-45, 1997 SL1050

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    Help- Same issues, same year same Indy 500 EFI, what was the end result in this issue

    Quote Originally Posted by jajardas View Post
    You have the same results on or off the stand correct? What codes are you getting? I am thinking it is fuel related. If the regulator is not working correctly it will allow to much fuel past and not hold pressure in the fuel rail. I have attached the test sheets for the fuel system. Are both cylinders firing? Like UOPK said check the y pipe do both of them heat up? I check right at the engine block right after I start the machine. You can use water drops at the same location on each side. The water should boil or steam off the same.

    Post back your codes,
    JJ
    Help- Same issues, same year same Indy 500 EFI, what was the end result in this issue

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