Ice Fishing Sled Build - '96 Indy 500
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Ice Fishing Sled Build - '96 Indy 500

This is a discussion on Ice Fishing Sled Build - '96 Indy 500 within the Sled Shed forums, part of the Snowmobiles category; Since my wife won't let me get tracks for my wheeler or a new sled I decided to rip apart my 1996 Indy 500 and ...

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Thread: Ice Fishing Sled Build - '96 Indy 500

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    Ice Fishing Sled Build - '96 Indy 500

    Since my wife won't let me get tracks for my wheeler or a new sled I decided to rip apart my 1996 Indy 500 and make her into an ice fishing beast. In the past 4 years I think I've been trail riding once - I almost exclusively use this sled for ice fishing and I don't think the stock setup is meant to pull a 300lb portable with two 230lb guys on it.

    As of now, here's what I'm planning on doing:

    1. Drop the skid for a little more clearance. I've run into the problem where I get into deep snow or slush and bottom the sled out before my track can dig down to the ice where the studs can grab.
    2. Put stiffer springs in the skid or move the tension adjustment rollers up - again, needs to support almost 500lbs without bottoming out.
    3. Gearing down to a 17T top sprocket and a 41T bottom sprocket. I know that seems pretty steep but I'm not building a race sled, I'm going for a snow tractor. I don't need to go 90mph, 30mph and lots of torque is just fine by me.
    4. Raise the front end somehow if needed after I drop the skid.
    5. Build a rack for the back with a hitch and an auger rack for the front.
    6. Lots of general maintenance since I don't think it has been done for quite some time - clean carbs, grease and clean the skid, clean the clutches and new springs, new fuel, oil, and air lines along with filters.


    Although I am a mechanical engineer by profession and have been fixing all sorts of machines since I was young, I'm still pretty new to working on snowmobiles. If you have any thoughts or or ideas on what I am trying to do please feel free to let me know so I don't screw anything up.

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    Starting the tare-down. Lots of penetrating oil used. The steering post was rusted up, I took it out and heated it up and it still wouldn't move - time for a new one.

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    Spring tension roller location before.

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    Spring tension roller location after the new bracket was installed. If this doesn't work out I can always take the bracket off, move it back to the original location, and get bigger springs. I had the aluminum laying around so I thought I would give it a try.

  2. #2
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    is When yuo finally catch me I
    will probably be wrapped
    around a tree
     

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    just build some risers for the skiis

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    Quote Originally Posted by dtbprc View Post
    just build some risers for the skiis
    Good idea. I've thought about that a little bit but I'm still not quiet sure how to go about it.

    1. Basically raise the hole location on the skis with brackets including something for the rubber stop to rest on. I think this would be the easiest and cheapest. My only concern with raising the pivot point is you create a larger moment arm and in turn create a little more downward pressure on the front of the ski which could cause it to dive in the snow more.

    2. Find or make longer spindles. I have the capability to weld just about anything but the only machining capabilities I have is a grinder and drill press. Having a shop make them would probably cost more than the sled is worth. If I recall, the Edge suspension has longer spindles but I don't know what else would be required to make them fit in my sled.

    Maybe if I go with the brackets and position the rubber stop so the skis can't rotate too far forward I would be ok.

    Has anyone else done this before?

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    is time to make the firewood!!!
     
    xcr440's Avatar
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    im not sure the aluminum block will take the banging unless you strictly use it on the lake..... with that gear ratio it may trench and end up worse than oem gearing.
    Last edited by xcr440; 12-17-2014 at 01:49 PM.
    CanadianXCR and 680ultraX4 like this.
    2003 Pro x 700
    almond/blue,10-66, black/red,team 719, T-flow, 440 mains

    1997 XCF 440

    1997 XCR440
    HSP Black,S51HR, Team Sec,19/39,380 main,17.5 PAJ's,ufo's,T-flow below shelf,159 P-4 nozzles, stock 6DH7 needle #2 pos.

    1998 Indy 500

    1987 Sport 340

    Past toys;
    1998 Explorer|1999 F-250 SD V10 | 1997 F-150 SC 5.4L | 1995 F-150 RC 5.0L | 1980 F-150 RC 5.0L | 1980 Chevy CK 1500 350ci 3.4 ton lifted springs |

    1998 XC 700 | 1996 ULTRA SP | 1995 XCR 600 | 1991 RXL | 1992 XCR 440 | 1990 INDY 400 | 1987 INDY 400 | 1987 INDY TRAIL |

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    Quote Originally Posted by xcr440 View Post
    im not sure the aluminum block will take the banging unless you strictly use it on the lake..... with that gear ratio it may trench and end up worse than oem gearing.
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    I ran a simulation on the aluminum bracket and each one should handle about 350 lbf*in of torque - basically a combined load of 350lbs to each spring block (700lbs total). Of course we do not live in a perfect world and that was not factoring in any impact loading or spring preload. I shouldn't be pounding on it too hard but I will definitely keep an eye on it the first few times I use it and make sure I have the tools with to take it off if I need to.

    What do you mean by "trench"? The good news is I will still have the stock sprockets and chain I can put back in if it is a problem. What ratio would you suggest for a workhorse sled?

  6. #6
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    is time to make the firewood!!!
     
    xcr440's Avatar
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    trench means it will dig a hole with the track. At best if it fits I would drop 2 teeth on top. I use my wifes 98' indy 500 for ice fishing also. I pull about 300 lb in total pluss myself and daughter so about 500 lbs total. Ive dropped thru in slush but never had an issue where I was stcuk. Maybe its time for alittle more lug on the track.
    CanadianXCR and XCRacer440 like this.
    2003 Pro x 700
    almond/blue,10-66, black/red,team 719, T-flow, 440 mains

    1997 XCF 440

    1997 XCR440
    HSP Black,S51HR, Team Sec,19/39,380 main,17.5 PAJ's,ufo's,T-flow below shelf,159 P-4 nozzles, stock 6DH7 needle #2 pos.

    1998 Indy 500

    1987 Sport 340

    Past toys;
    1998 Explorer|1999 F-250 SD V10 | 1997 F-150 SC 5.4L | 1995 F-150 RC 5.0L | 1980 F-150 RC 5.0L | 1980 Chevy CK 1500 350ci 3.4 ton lifted springs |

    1998 XC 700 | 1996 ULTRA SP | 1995 XCR 600 | 1991 RXL | 1992 XCR 440 | 1990 INDY 400 | 1987 INDY 400 | 1987 INDY TRAIL |

  7. #7
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    is is not riding his xc this
    year, sold it and am spending
    more time in the shop fixing
    the gritters....
     
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReelDeal View Post
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    I ran a simulation on the aluminum bracket and each one should handle about 350 lbf*in of torque - basically a combined load of 350lbs to each spring block (700lbs total). Of course we do not live in a perfect world and that was not factoring in any impact loading or spring preload. I shouldn't be pounding on it too hard but I will definitely keep an eye on it the first few times I use it and make sure I have the tools with to take it off if I need to.

    What do you mean by "trench"? The good news is I will still have the stock sprockets and chain I can put back in if it is a problem. What ratio would you suggest for a workhorse sled?
    looks like you did your homework. a skidoo safari, aka work horse, runs 16/39 gearing. i think that 17/41 is a good ratio for what you want.like you said, your dropping the suspension for more clearance to trench down to the ice for traction, with studs,without bottoming out onto your skid. i love custom fab, keep it up! oh yah, for the front suspension you could try a stiffer shock spring. that would gain you an inch or so and more stability and alot less work.

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    The 17/41 gears and a new chain should be showing up in the mail today. As long as I've got everything torn apart I think I will throw those in there and give it a try - worst case scenario it ends up being too much and I put the stock 21/39 gears back in and maybe order 19 for the top.

    I've got the front shocks cranked all the way up already and she still sits pretty low. I think you're right with the new springs and I know the shocks need to get rebuilt anyway. New springs and a shock rebuild - I might be better off just getting new ones. I'll start there and make extensions later if I need them.

    xcr440: Funny you mention a track with a little more lug. She's got 3/4" of lug left on her that has been beat to heck. The track is starting to get some pretty bad checking in it too - I think the studs are about the only thing that keep it going. It was time for a new track a few years ago. It should make it through this season and next season I would like to get a new track and a 136" skid (or I just tell my wife my bonus was less this year and I go buy it now). And I'm still a little torn on how I want to do that too. I know when I drop my skid I will be making my attack angle worse. That being said, do I go with the 136" skid or do I make/buy some shorter rail extensions for my 121" skid to move it down and back for a better attack angle with the 136" track?

  9. #9
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    is time to make the firewood!!!
     
    xcr440's Avatar
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    go to a 144" more options out there.
    2003 Pro x 700
    almond/blue,10-66, black/red,team 719, T-flow, 440 mains

    1997 XCF 440

    1997 XCR440
    HSP Black,S51HR, Team Sec,19/39,380 main,17.5 PAJ's,ufo's,T-flow below shelf,159 P-4 nozzles, stock 6DH7 needle #2 pos.

    1998 Indy 500

    1987 Sport 340

    Past toys;
    1998 Explorer|1999 F-250 SD V10 | 1997 F-150 SC 5.4L | 1995 F-150 RC 5.0L | 1980 F-150 RC 5.0L | 1980 Chevy CK 1500 350ci 3.4 ton lifted springs |

    1998 XC 700 | 1996 ULTRA SP | 1995 XCR 600 | 1991 RXL | 1992 XCR 440 | 1990 INDY 400 | 1987 INDY 400 | 1987 INDY TRAIL |

  10. #10
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    144" sounds even better!!!

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    Time to get the TIG welder out! I got bored at work today so I designed a quick cargo rack.

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