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Enticer 250 Problems

This is a discussion on Enticer 250 Problems within the Yamaha forums, part of the Brand Specific Snowmobile Discussion category; I picked up a 1981 Yamaha Enticer 250 and 1980 340 from a guy across the street for free and I've been working on the ...

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Thread: Enticer 250 Problems

  1. #1
    is Hates rainy days
     

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    I picked up a 1981 Yamaha Enticer 250 and 1980 340 from a guy across the street for free and I've been working on the 250. I had got it running today so I put it all back together and now it won't start. It has good spark and fuel is getting to the spark plug, but it won't start. Even with quick start it won't start. The guy I got it from said that he had got it tuned up or something then took it out for a ride and it died and wouldn't start, which seems to be what is happening now.

    Does anyone know what this is or has had this problem before?

  2. #2
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    Brings back memories[]

    My first sled was a 1978 Enticer 250, and I know the frustration of them not starting. Whether or not I had the same problems that you have, I don't know, but I'll share my experiences.

    Mine was always a bit of a hard starter when I first got it, so I decided to rebuild the carb/fuel pump (Mine was an all in one unit, I'm assuming yours is the same). After I got it back together, it wouldn't start. After many hours of pulling on that stupid rope, one of my friends thought we should pressurize the fuel tank with an air hose to get the system primed. I wouldn't say it was the safest procedure, but it did the trick, she fired up.

    It was still a bear to start. Sometimes it wouldn't even start at all, no matter what I tried. I then discovered 2 tricks that got it started every morning.

    Trick #1: The gas tank had to be full, or nearly full. I have no idea what it's deal was, but there was nothing you could do to start mine if it had a 1/2 tank or less. As soon as it had a full tank, it would fire right up.

    Trick #2: Adjust the idle. I actually turned my idle down to get it to start. Unfortunately, when the engine was warm, the idle was so low I had to constantly blip the throttle to keep it alive, but if I turned the idle up, it wouldn't start.

    It seemed to restart fine when it was warmed up, but getting it started in the morning was the trick. Make sure the spark plug is in good shape, and you might want to try a compression check to make sure it still has enough compression. My guess is there is something up with carb/fuel pump. Be careful if you decide to tear into that carb though. The gaskets and diaphragms are likely to be very hard and brittle, and rebuild kits are hard to find.

  3. #3
    is Hates rainy days
     

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    Well I probably have a 1/4 tank or less in it so I'll try putting more gas in it and turning the idle down. I've also already cleaned the carb, and on Sunday I tried a different coil. Also it is carb and fuel pump in one.

  4. #4
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    Well with the idle down it starts its just really hard to start and with quick start it starts fist pull. I think I'm going to buy a carb kit tho and having more gas in it probably would help. But now I have to wait till winter to test drive it.

  5. #5
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    Cool beans. Glad to hear it's starting again.

    For the carb kit, be careful what you buy. Make sure the rebuild kit is specifically for an Enticer 250. There are some kits that will fit, but the ports don't match up correctly. I found that out the hard way. You're best bet may be to find a Yamaha dealer and see what they have available. It'll probably cost more, but they will have access to old parts diagrams that a lot of people might not even have anymore.

    Good luck. I sure do miss mine sometimes.

  6. #6
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    Well know I'm working on the 340 but its seized. It has had transmission fluid sitting in it for 3 weeks trying to unseize it (note one cylinder is up all the way and one is down). And I was wondering what the best way to unseize it is?

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    It depends on how it was seized to begin with.

    If the engine has seized up because it was overheated, the rings can actually weld themselves to the cylinders. No amount of any sort of oil is going to free that up. If that's the case, you may want to look around at some snowmobile junkyards and find a decent used block.

    If it's seized just from sitting around for a while, a rust ring has probably formed between the cylinder and the rings. I honestly don't know if ATF is really going to do anything. What you should do is go find yourself some good penetrating oil (Not WD-40, I've had good luck with PB Blaster, there are others though). Clean the ATF out of the cylinders, and give the cylinders a good soaking with the penetrating oil. Do that for a couple of days, making sure you keep re-applying the penetrating oil. Then, get a breaker bar and try and rock the motor back and forth using the primary clutch bolt. Be careful here, it's going to take a bit of force to break that rust bond, but you don't want to snap off the bolt. If it doesn't seem to want to budge, give it a few more days of soaking in penetrating oil and try it again. It should break free eventually.

  8. #8
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    It's seized from sitting and will releasall work?

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    I had to look up Releasall. I've never heard of it before. It seems like it should do the trick. Give it try.

  10. #10
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    Its still soaking in Releasall but I was wondering if there are any bigger engines that can be swapped into the 340 with out that much work. Does anybody know of any?

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