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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a resto thread for my grandpa's '73 TNT 340 silver bullet that he had purchased new in '73. The has sat for the last 15 years or so, and i started to work on it a few years ago but it got pushed back because of other projects thats i started.

So, i now have the room to start on it again and hope to have it complete by Christmas.
heres what i need to do so far:
-rebuild bogie suspension with new bearings, sandblast and paint.
-new drive sprockets and track
-sandblast and repaint chassis
-clean up motor, exhaust
- get bumper and grab bars re chromed
i have most of the parts, minus a windshield. luckily, the seat is in good condition and so is the hood, supposedly the motor ran and isnt frozen up, so the biggest mechanical issue is the rear suspension and drive sprockets.

pics coming soon.
 

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Maybe while everything is together, you should get it running first?

That is the plan of attack I'm using on a restore of A 1980 Citation. Got'er running good, now all the body, suspension, and component work can begin. Made a new seat board that is now being re-foamed and skinned by local upholstery guy.

Seem's to be working well. I'm starting in the old 1972 Yamaha GP-433B next. I will start by getting it running first again. I think it may have a bad coil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well, the sled was already halfway apart. so im just stripping it and doing all the metal work and paint before i fire it up.
my dad said it ran right up until it was put in storage, was properly fogged and stabilized and fuel drained. im probably gonna put new points and condenser, and possibly a carb rebuild on it before i reassemble it all anyway.

right now im in the process of rebuilding the rear suspension. removing all the bogies, replacing bearings, tires and sprockets, then sandblasting and paint on all the metal parts. then reassembly with all stainless hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
change of plans, im using an elan track i found that is in really good shape and using the track sprockets off a '72 TNT so they fit the elan track.
right now im in the process of rebuilding the rear suspension. but im a little stuck, got the bogies apart but i cant get the bearings off the shaft. cant use a bearing puller since the shaft is hollow and gives nothing for the puller to push against. im sure heat would help, but i dont want to melt the seals on the good bearings i do have. anyone else have experience pulling these bogie bearings off?
 

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[thumb]Making some good progress there! That hood look to be in great shape.
Keep us up-dated.
I'll start getting some pictures together of mine;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
made a little more progress today. got all the bogies taken apart, came up with enough good bearings and good tires. next step is getting all the bogey frames, hubs, and springs sandblasted and painted.

and for others having trouble taking apart old ski doo bogey suspension, use a slide hammer to pull the wheel bearings off the shaft. i had orignal bearings that hadnt moved in 30 years pop off with ease.

heres a link to a bunch more pics. http://s970.photobucket.com/albums/ae185/93hypercat900/
 

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Looks like its coming along real well. Not a fan at all of the silver bullet and in my mind i thought they were one of the worst sleds ever to be built and sold.

Can i ask why your going to get new points and condenser? I ask because they usually are still good. Points may need to be filed/cleaned but once cleaned they should work. Condensers are usually still good. But i would try the originals first, and if they are bad get new ones.

Another thing to say about points, i have found that the originals or NOS original points are the only way to go. The aftermarket ones to me are complete junk and dont last nearly as long as the originals even after cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This silver bullet has alot of sentimental value in the family. first sled my grandpa ever bought new, so it means alot to him and my dad. im not a huge fan of the way the french Canadians engineered things. like the driveshaft and sprocket setup, such a dumb way to build it.

i dont usually trust old ignition parts. even if the points are good, ive seen a condenser work when i put the sled away, then not work the next season. plus i dont want to end up dead on the trails because the condenser decided to go 25 miles from home. (had that happen before.)

i would only go OEM on electrical stuff. those parts need to be reliable.
 

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Good progress!! keep the pics coming!!!
 

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ilive4snow700 said:
i dont usually trust old ignition parts. even if the points are good, ive seen a condenser work when i put the sled away, then not work the next season. plus i dont want to end up dead on the trails because the condenser decided to go 25 miles from home. (had that happen before.)

i would only go OEM on electrical stuff. those parts need to be reliable.
To each his own i guess...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
update: all the bogies are apart and i managed to scavenge enough good parts for the sled. YAY! i dont need to buy new bearings and tires like i thought! haha. next step is cleaning, sandblast, and paint.
although, i will need to find some new shafts for the bogey frames, the aluminum shaft that the mounting bolts thread into. they are all worn out and unusable. i may even just make some new shafts, they look simple enough.

while the bogey frames are being blasted i will be working on the track drivers, the old yellow ones are brittle so i will be changing them out. so far the hardest part is getting the idler wheels off the driveshaft. tried heat and that failed, so now they are gonna soak in Aero Kroil for a few days to loosen em up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Areo Kroil is a success at getting the idler wheels off. only can do one side at a time though, since the shaft is standing on end to help the kroil seep into it. it literally slid right off after being rusted on for 30 years.

my bro has the bogeys at the school shop getting blasted, should be back in a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
finally got the bearings off the driveshaft so i can begin replacing the sprockets. aero-kroil worked great on one side, but not the other. i had it soaking for 2 weeks and it wouldnt budge. i even heated it until it started to melt and it still wouldnt move. i ended up cutting the bearing off with a die grinder, and even with the inner race in 2 pieces i needed to beat it off with a hammer and chisel. 35 years of rust and determination made it a biotch to get off.
 
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