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1992 Polaris RXL 650 with EFI, ecu troubles...

13297 Views 27 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  stevem5215
Hey people,

This is my first time here and I must say "WoW! You people certainly seem educated when it comes to this stuff!

I own a 1992 Polaris RXL 650 with EFI. I have never had any trouble with the ECU blinking codes at me, ever!! Until tonight that is. I swear to god this thing was puring like a kitten without any problems with the ECU at all, then over night the ECU started to flash a code at me and the machine is smoking like George Burns (burning a huge amount of oil). The code is 1 long, followed by one short blink.

The problem is I have a HUGE trip tomorrow (which has been planned for over a year and consists of 15 sleds) and no way of getting this machine to the dealership to have the blink code diagnosed and "translated into english".

On a 1992 Polaris RXL 650 with EFI, what does the ECU blink code 1 long - 1 short translate into?

If I know what the problem is perhaps I can have this sled ready to make the planned trip tomorrow.

Thanks all in advance! [:D]

P.S. In the past 2 months I have had the worst luck imaginable. I have managed to cook my '94 T-Bird (1 of the 2 vehicles that I own, now the wife is bent out of shape. It was her car...), blow both cyclinders out of my garden tractor (while blowing the neighbour's snow) and now somehow I have managed to screw up my sled.

Please...For the love of God...Don't let me be deprived of the only thing I truely love in life (other than my cranky wife). Don't let me sit around with a broken sled (while my neighbour gets to gloat that his Arctic Cat is running "oh-so-well"). Please help a shmuck out......I'm on my knees!
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I hope someone knows what this problem could be as well. My son has just dragged home a 93 650 RXL, and it seems to have the problem of running very rich,(burning alot of oil) at start-up as well. No flashing lights though. Once it warms up it is ok, although the plugs indicate it's way too rich. I used to fix snow-machines in the old days, but i don't know anything about the new fangled electronics, on these newer ones.
Now yesterday he melted a the center piston, so I suppose I'll be learning about them fairly quickly. Today is tear down day, (in a few more hours when the sun rises)
I had just put new plugs in, and they indicate rich running, so it doesn't explain why the piston siezed, unless the person he bought it from did something wrong, like a bad patch up job.
Still, there must be a way to set the oil injectors, and fuel injectors, so if anyone knows, let me know.
I didn't even know that the ecm had this flash feature, but then, without a shop manual it means nothing..
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You have problem with your throttle position sensor. This is an electronic sensor on the side of your mag side carb.(sitting on sled, the one one the right)
This can be check with an ohmmeter. Disconnect the plug and with the meter check the sensor for 400-700 ohms in the throttle closed position. The meter reading should increase as you open the throttle to the full open position where you should get a reading of 4500 ohms ( 4.5 k ohms).
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info. It looks like I'm going to have to go over the whole sled. All the tips I can get are a great help help.
Blowing motors isn't fun. My old Rupp racer was nasty for that. Fast machine in it's day, but fussy. loved to melt pistons.
I've heard stories about these 650 rxls, but I don't know if they are true or not. There doesn't seem to be much info on that particular engine for some reason, not that i can find as of yet at least.
Thanks everyone for the input. I just got off the phone with our local snowmobile guru and he confirmed that the blink code 1 long followed by one short translates into a TPS (throttle position sensor) problem. I was too cramped up to kneel beside my machine to test the little sucker so I pulled it off in order to bench test it. I'm not very keen with a multi-meter so my results are still pending.....There are three wires on this harness, which wires combos am I going to try in order to test this thing?

By the way, I don't have a Select Monitor handy, what is the best way to reset my TPS once I reinstall it?

Thanks all....Cheers!
Well...After a day and a half of head scratching, bleeding knuckles and lashing out about 100 different curse words that would make a sailor blush, I have come to my conclusion.........Sell it!

The TPS seems to be alright according to a multimeter test so I pieced the sled back together, fired it up and let it sit in the driveway idling for about 15 minutes. See to idle well enough but it could be boggish when hammering the throttle all the way down and releasing, so I let it sit for another 5 minutes idling.

I decided to take it for a short run (driveway is about 110 feet) and back. It almost seemed to have a power surge running through it. Like it wanted to take off but something was holding it back. I decided to take it for a longer run (down the driveway and back and around the house). While cooking down the driveway then into the backyard, I jumped a 4 foot snow bank behind the house. My landing was gracefull and surely would have scored a perfect 10, however, the sled's RPMs dropped and it the engine died about three feet after impact.

I still have this darn ECU blinking 1 long and 1 short which we have already determined to be a Throttle Position Sensor problem. Like I said, TPS seems to be within specs.

Anyone have any ideas (or $1500.00 CDN)? It's sitting here in Manitoba waiting for a new owner...LOL...

Man this thing is starting to cost me some cash! Last year I bought it for $1950.00 put $1200.00 into it before the season was over (simple stuff like clutch work, filters, belt and so on - nothing electronic). In the summer I put a brand new track on it and did some suspension work and now this...$1500.00 may sound like alot for this machine, especially in a "not running" condition, but damn! I have a car to fix! LOL

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LoL! I'm in MB as well, maybe you bought it from the same guy my son bought his!
He paid $1000. for the '93 so far, it's cost about $400 parts, shocks, runners suspension, he took it for his first trail ride 2 days ago, and blew the motor.
So, no thanks, I don't think we want another, but we may be looking for engines in the future......
Maybe your cluch isn't quite right? belt worn? that can make a huge diff in take off power.
Also, check to make sure your oiler cable is set proper, there are little marks on the oiler pump, at full throttle, the grooves should line up. You could be gettinging too much oil at idle if someone messed around with it.
That machine should have a real good launch.
I finnished taking my son's machine apart.

bad news for him I'm afraid.
The person he bought it from had put new rings in the engine. on cylinder was rebored, +10, but he put a stock piston in. The centre one, he had faced the ring gap right in the middle of the exaust port, I guess we now know why it blew up, it wasn't from over heating, /lean condition, there is cylinder damage from the ring end expansion. I hope I can bore it out.

The rich cylinder, (cluch side) is odd, the pison is washed clean on intake side, LOTS of fuel going into that one cylinder for some reason, bad fuel injector?
At any rate, looks like 3 new pistons, and at least 60 thou over-bore, if thats available or possible for that engine.[:(]
sell it lol! Your best friend did a complete fry-job to his dads RXL. Ice in the oil is kinda bad. Anyways he had issues with his computer before and ended up buying a new one. I recommended saying screw it to the EFI and convert it to carbs cause you can actually fix 'em easy should something real serious happen like your fuel pump need a rebuild. [;)]
Hey Nathan...I got a perfectly good parts sled sittin' here. It was running 3 days ago and cranking out some serious power. $1500.00 and its yours bud.....LoL

Daniel, $500. and you have a deal. thats all I'll pay for a parts sled. I can go down to Watt st. and pick one up, LOL
Where do you think my son got this one from? (in a round about way) [:D]

To the other post, Yea, the Carb thing is an option, less of a headache, and it isn't that hard to do. saves some weight as well.
the air box will prob. fit too! LoL

But, I have a 93, so they were supposed to have fixed all the probs Daniel has with his.

I was doing some reading Daniel. You should check and clean every connection. You said you hit a bump and it started running like crap again? bad ground somewhere.
Also, turn up your idle. should run at 1800- 2000 so your generator can keep up the voltage. Also, check your heat sensor to make sure it works, thats what tells your computer that the machine is warmed up, ready to go. it won't move till it does. It's right on the cooling rail, starter side. It has a black wire, (at least mine does) that should be plugged into it. with the machine hot, It should be read grounded.

These Machines are a challenge, thats for sure.
Also, I found the problem with my rich running condition. my injector was loose, i gave it a tap, and the damn thing spin around.
And, lets not forget, this thing was showing power as well untill the kid blew it up.
It wasn't his fault though. The guy he bought it from put the rings in wrong (facing the exaust port) and they did what you can imagine. Plus, he put a standard piston in a over bore. -brilliant.
If you see a young kid named jason who calls himself a mechanic from tyndal, he's lying...
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Man that's a tough break! Atleast I got to ride mine for 1 1/2 seasons before she crapped out. My buddies delayed our big ride until today. All the same I told them to head out without me as I don't have the heart or ambition to look at my machine today.

As far as things go I am almost certain you are correct about a wire or a connection being loose or dirty. It's the only thing that makes sense to me at this point. The way it happened, ran great one day and didn't run the next. I figure I took some snow under the hood and as it melted overnight it corroded a connection. Darn ECU keeps blinking 1 long and 1 short (TPS) so you would think that the connection would be the one to the throttle position sensor but I had it all stripped and it looks ok.

Out of luck I guess and not interested in pursuing it anymore today. Cheers!

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Just me again.
Maybe you should take the airbox off and give it a good cleaning, check all the connections.

This machine I have here is out of commission.
I finnished taking it all apart today.

The person my son bought it from did the dumbest thing I have ever seen done in my life.
He put the pistons in backwards. All the ring gaps were facing the exaust port, and as a result, All three jugs are damaged beyond repair.
I suppose I can re-sleeve them, but Hell, might as well look around for used jugs I can fix cheaply.

So, this means I have a 93 rxl with a good crank and electrical system, new shocks all around, new runners for sale

Interested? $1500 and it's all yours,[:D]
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I'll give you $150.00 for the ECU. [;)]

In fact I would be interested in the following [:D]:
- Throttle Position Sensor
- Handle bar kill switch
- Triple pipes
- Windshield
- Front Shocks
- Skis

Between the two of us we could make one running sled before winter is over....LoL

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There is always an ecu for sale on ebay as cheap as $50
I own a 91' rxl that I've had for about 10yrs now.
I've had to replace 3 sensors over the years: the TPS, air temp, and case temp
It was the top of the line sled in 91/92 and it will run strong and reliable if you leave it stock. But older sleds in general are money pits - no way around that.

My 1st suggestion is to check for cracked or broken wires. They get brittle over time especially where they go into connectors. Make sure your connectors are tight too. There is a lot of wires and plumbing under the hood on the rxls - so try not to disturb it too much or you will break more shit. Be careful!
The following will help you too.
Good Luck!

When the ECU recognizes a problem, the LED flashes a series of Long and Short pulses to identify the trouble code number. The long pulses indicate the first diget in the code and the short pulses indicate the second digit.
For Instance two long indicate the first digit is 2. Three short pulses indicate the second digit is 3. So the trouble code in this Example is 23.

The ECU flashes the LED as long as the problem persists, but if the problem stops the ECU saves the trouble code in its Memory and stops flashing the LED.

{NOTE: THe ECU dose not retain the trouble codes if power is disconnected from the ECU}

To Retrieve the Trouble code from Memory, connect a jumper wire between the GRAY and BLACK wires at the DIAGONSTIC plug on the ECU. The ECU will flash the LED to identify the trouble code number.

33.......CDI OUTPUT
* Used on RXL models only. Codes 31,32,33 are not used on RXL models

Polaris used the same codes for their 500 efi that's why you see the * at the bottom to tell you which were specific for the rxl ;)

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Good info motoboy and welcome to the forum. Guys like you with real facts we can always use.
LoL 92-RxL-650,

Even though I'm a little Pissed off that the person I bought it from was so stupid as to put the pistons in backwards,
I'll fix it and have a good sled. The rest of it is in not bad shape, and I've already spend coin on it, so like the post above says, old machines are money pits, can't avoid them.

Oh, and thanks for the code list! but how do you activate them? turn the key 5 times or something?( oops, re-read your post, jumper wire method )

92-rxl, your close by, so why don't you give phone (204) 268-3548 a shout and maybe they can fix up your problem?

Afer taking this thing apart, I don't see how your problem is a big deal anyway, prob. a loose connection,/dirty one.
When I took the airbox off, I saw how full of oil and crap they can get, so it's a good idea if you just clean up things first. If hitting a bump makes it run like shit, it sure sounds like a bad connect.
Also, take off the air box sensor and clean it out, it can get full of goop as well.
everything that can go wrong looks fairly simple to check out, once you learn where everything is. On your sled, I'm betting on loose wires.
My sled was on self destruct everytime I started it.

Gregs ( I took the cylinders in this morning) said they can either re-sleeve it, or try go big bore, ( I'm hoping for big bore, either 780, or 1100)
I'll find out in a while. It's cheaper to go big bore. Re-sleeve costs 130 for the sleeve, and 100 for the machining, It includes porting and chamfering.
Big bore cost 68$ a jug, so it's way cheaper.
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Originally posted by Nathan
[br]LoL 92-RxL-650,
Oh, and thanks for the code list! but how do you activate them? turn the key 5 times or something?
When you turn the ignition on and hear the fuel pump kick on, the computer 'arms' itself and begins getting inputs from all the sensors. If the cpu has a problem 'reading' a sensor, it will begin flashing codes immediately. The sled can also be running and flashing codes.

Other RXL tips:
-those 3 relays under the hood below the ign. switch can stick. Which will either kill your bat. quick or your sled won't start at all.
-use the NGK EV plugs
-use the blue primary clutch spring
-keep the battery charged up (Battery Tender highly recommended as there is a slight power draw even shut off)
-those old clutchs need to be rebuilt often for peak performance. Rxls are slightly doggy out of the hole but a fresh clutch makes a huge difference. Like yank the ski's off the ground difference. Which is pretty good considering the rxl weighs like 10 tons [:D]

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