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Discussion Starter #1
So...
Bottom line, we are looking for the manual for this sled. For Free preferred.

Any help would be awesome.
Here we are again it seems w/ the mystery of the EFI that wont start. My father-in-law and I have been working to fix his sled all week. Replaced spark plugs, Cleaned injectors, checked fuel pressure (31PSI), ran wiring diagrams. Still nothing.

Cheers,
T/O
 

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I believe this site has a section for manuals.. be sure to get the 93 500 wiring diagram.. it will be different than all other years

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Discussion Starter #5
electric start, but we hard wired it as a test to check its function... the old fashion way. It got a little wet... manahmanah.
 

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Check the voltage regulator thingy ( I can't remember what it is called).. that is the component that wakes up the fuel pump and ecm on start up.. I had to re-engineer mine because the part is not available.

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Discussion Starter #9

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Discussion Starter #10

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We had a 92 that was hard starting.. They came out with a recall for it that added a primer switch to our 92
They made a change to the 93 to correct the problem to get fuel in. As mentioned earlier the fuel pump should cycle to add fuel when starting. Sounds like it wasn't and the wiring you did is now flooding.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
We had a 92 that was hard starting.. They came out with a recall for it that added a primer switch to our 92
They made a change to the 93 to correct the problem to get fuel in. As mentioned earlier the fuel pump should cycle to add fuel when starting. Sounds like it wasn't and the wiring you did is now flooding.
We removed the temp hot wire and cleared the engine post trial
 

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Check the voltage regulator thingy ( I can't remember what it is called).. that is the component that wakes up the fuel pump and ecm on start up.. I had to re-engineer mine because the part is not available.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
The part I was referring to is called the ACS.
Google on how to test it.. remember, just because the fuel pump works doesn't mean the ecm is telling the injectors to fire.
I reworked mine by adding a toggle switch for the fuel pump and installing a generic voltage rectifier to power the DC circuits.

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disconnect an injector connector and install a 12v bulb and see if it flashed when cranking. This will indicate an injector pulse.
 

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The ignition switch anq, aux11iary kill switch are
connected in series wi h the E0U COl signal. If these
switches are leaking partial voltages to ground, the
ECU will not function properly. Whenever COlor
intermittent running problems are occurring, the
switches should be suspect for potential problems.
These switches will also fail more often when humidity
is high. To troubleshoot the switches, disconnect or
isolate them from the circuit.
 

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I have been working on EFI for many years in the automotive field but have not done any snowmobile work.
I did look at the information in the link for the 93 service manual and I think you should be able to diagnose using this info.
I would look at the ECU connector first to make sure you have good power and ground.
I like to use a high current test lamp to check these. An old halogen fog lamp bulb usually draws enough current to test most circuits. I have been fooled before by just using a volt meter to check power and ground circuits because corrosion will limit current flow (amperage) but will show correct voltage.
Just one strand of copper in a wire will show correct voltage but will not flow enough current.
If power and ground is ok check the ECU diagnostics section on of 76 and find the ECU LED indicator, there are 2 wires that you connect that will then flash trouble codes thru this LED to help isolate the circuit that is causing the problem.
I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have been working on EFI for many years in the automotive field but have not done any snowmobile work.
I did look at the information in the link for the 93 service manual and I think you should be able to diagnose using this info.
I would look at the ECU connector first to make sure you have good power and ground.
I like to use a high current test lamp to check these. An old halogen fog lamp bulb usually draws enough current to test most circuits. I have been fooled before by just using a volt meter to check power and ground circuits because corrosion will limit current flow (amperage) but will show correct voltage.
Just one strand of copper in a wire will show correct voltage but will not flow enough current.
If power and ground is ok check the ECU diagnostics section on of 76 and find the ECU LED indicator, there are 2 wires that you connect that will then flash trouble codes thru this LED to help isolate the circuit that is causing the problem.
I hope this helps.
we will track this down today. Confirm for me that the ECU is located in the EFI box?
 

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yes the EFI box and the ECU (electronic control unit) are one in the same.
 
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