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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been struggling to figure out a bogging issue for a few years now on a 1995 Indy 500 with 3000miles on it, the symptoms have changed over time, and I have tried many things.

One thing I have not done anything with is the primary clutch. I've never tred to rebuild one of these.

Would it be worth buying a used one (says it has 2000 miles on it) and swapping to see if it fixes the problem?
 

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JuJu
skiwater9 said:
I've been struggling to figure out a bogging issue for a few years now on a 1995 Indy 500 with 3000miles on it, the symptoms have changed over time, and I have tried many things.

One thing I have not done anything with is the primary clutch. I've never tred to rebuild one of these.

Would it be worth buying a used one (says it has 2000 miles on it) and swapping to see if it fixes the problem?
Clean the carbs.
 

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skiwater9 said:
I've been struggling to figure out a bogging issue for a few years now on a 1995 Indy 500 with 3000miles on it, the symptoms have changed over time, and I have tried many things.

One thing I have not done anything with is the primary clutch. I've never tred to rebuild one of these.

Would it be worth buying a used one (says it has 2000 miles on it) and swapping to see if it fixes the problem?
It would most likely be cheaper to buy a clutch compression tool and a new spring, than a replacement clutch.. Then, not only do you NOT buy someone else's problems, you also have a tool useful later and knowledge of how to use it.
 

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The last 2 or 3 Indy 500's we've had all experienced funky bog issues, sometimes they were a royal pain, other times they ran perfect.

It could just depend on temperature. Is it more boggy days on warmer days than chilly days?
A new spring definitely wouldn't hurt. You can also cheat and get a spring that has a slightly higher engagement RPM than stock. This means that no power is delivered to the ground during the bogging RPM range. It also adds a little bit of fun factor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Polaris_Parts_MN said:
The last 2 or 3 Indy 500's we've had all experienced funky bog issues, sometimes they were a royal pain, other times they ran perfect.

It could just depend on temperature. Is it more boggy days on warmer days than chilly days?
A new spring definitely wouldn't hurt. You can also cheat and get a spring that has a slightly higher engagement RPM than stock. This means that no power is delivered to the ground during the bogging RPM range. It also adds a little bit of fun factor.
The bog is temperature dependent, much more of a bog when warm, no bog when really cold. For example, when putting on my trailer the other day was 45F and could barely get it up the trailer. What could cause the temperature effect? I have 92 Indy 500 that has no bog at any temp.

Thanks
 

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For a given set of jets at a variety of temperatures, the sled runs rich in warmer temps and lean in cold temps. The motor runs better if it is lean. ---To a point I should add. Run too lean and you toast your motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
PolarisPride500 said:
Clean the carbs then make sure they are perfectly synced
I have cleaned and synced the carbs a few times, didn't seem to help.
Does this sound like it could be primary clutch related?

The reason I am asking is that I have gone through just about everything else....cleaned secondary (new spring, buttons), cleaned carbs, new fuel lines, etc..
 

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try a new spring in the primary
 

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Worn belt? Too much deflection? Track too tight? Carbs jetted & adjusted properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
tnmemr said:
Worn belt? Too much deflection? Track too tight? Carbs jetted & adjusted properly.
I put a new belt on end of last season, adjusted the deflection, track is not tight. Also put in new jets in the carbs to the factory spec.......


I really think the only thing I didn't look at was the primary, which is why I was thinking of picking up a used primary to have a "test item". If concensus is that I should just try a new spring in the primary I will do that, but having a hard time getting my mind around why a spring would give a bog problem mostly in warm weather.....
 

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That's actually easy to explain...

A weak spring lets the clutch close too quick, before the engine gets up into the power band.

When you add in less air density with warm air, and jetting not being changed for it, it will show the bog effect a lot more because the engine is putting out less power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ugly_old_Poo_kid said:
That's actually easy to explain...

A weak spring lets the clutch close too quick, before the engine gets up into the power band.

When you add in less air density with warm air, and jetting not being changed for it, it will show the bog effect a lot more because the engine is putting out less power.
Someone else had mentioned using a hotter plug, a BR7ES vs BR8ES. Do you think that might help as well? He thought the issue could be due to misfiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I took my primary apart yesterday, everything looks great.

The spring is gold and measures 3.35" free length. I saw one source that the free length should be 3.25+/-.125", and another that showed 3.5" min.

Anyone know for sure what the free length of a polaris gold spring should be? I am thinking that if it is 3.25+/-.125", I should not replace my spring? Agree?

Thank you
 

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skiwater9 said:
I took my primary apart yesterday, everything looks great.

The spring is gold and measures 3.35" free length. I saw one source that the free length should be 3.25+/-.125", and another that showed 3.5" min.

Anyone know for sure what the free length of a polaris gold spring should be? I am thinking that if it is 3.25+/-.125", I should not replace my spring? Agree?

Thank you
Seeing as that it's not possible if the spring is suppose to be 3.25" but needs to be a minimum of 3.5", I would say that the correct tolerance is 3.25 +/- .125". Not only because of that reason, but also because that what it says in the Polaris repair manual.
 
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