Snowmobile Fanatics banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These triple pipes did not come with instructions. Also i found that they have been modded to fit a diffrent sled but im confident that they are for a 96 ultra. The piece coming from the pipes is supposed to lead to a can. Found out that the can has been cut off and it is all straight tubing from the end of the pipes. Here is a video of my sled i uploaded on youtube. If i could get any information on what jet size i should use that would be helpful or any other information i should know about these pipes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yW3QV3f_jnc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,378 Posts
Enlighten me, did YOU put the pipes on? Did you buy the sled like it is? And just so you know those pipes don't tail into a can like, lets say a Ultra SPX or a XCR600 SP. The tails are suppose to tie together at the exit thru the belly pan. Tripple singels (stingers)like what you have I know are ear pierceingly loud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,987 Posts
Wow, that's a good camera, stereo sound..

I was surprised to hear that listening through my headset.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,109 Posts
Glasspack style pipes. Glasspack "silencers". No can. Very loud. Please do not use these pipes on the trails. Loud pipes = fewer places to ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ultrawillie said:
Enlighten me, did YOU put the pipes on? Did you buy the sled like it is? And just so you know those pipes don't tail into a can like, lets say a Ultra SPX or a XCR600 SP. The tails are suppose to tie together at the exit thru the belly pan. Tripple singels (stingers)like what you have I know are ear pierceingly loud.
Well I bought the pipes for 130 cdn, i bought the sled with no motor. i threw in a 96 ultra motor. Well Ill get a picture on here soon, because the cut/welding job does not look professionally done. and yes they are ear piercing.

I just have the end of the tubes sticking out of the belly pan for now i had to grind the plate that the guy made before so it fits through the bottom of the sled for the pipes to close the hood.


Ugly_old_Poo_kid said:
Wow, that's a good camera, stereo sound..

I was surprised to hear that listening through my headset.
yeah the camera im using is a sony handycam dcr-sx43
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,378 Posts
Ok I'm going to PM you the combo for those carbs, right after I put the finishing touches on my skid.[thumb]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
truck to get it quiet, as on my project with the same motor and same pipes, one of the end caps came loose and i saw that they are made with no packing in the "mufflers", so you could pull the end off of wrap/pack the mufflers with steel wool or fiberglass or something. (i my pilots set at 35's and mains at 410's, but haven't run it since i jumped from 30's and 380's)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,378 Posts
mustange70 said:
truck to get it quiet, as on my project with the same motor and same pipes, one of the end caps came loose and i saw that they are made with no packing in the "mufflers", so you could pull the end off of wrap/pack the mufflers with steel wool or fiberglass or something. (i my pilots set at 35's and mains at 410's, but haven't run it since i jumped from 30's and 380's)
Jumping it down to those number you'll either burn it down or you don't ride in temps less than +10.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,958 Posts
Those pipes are the old style PSI design that is similar to what Aaen did with a lot of his pipes, the have the stinger muffler built right onto the ends of the pipes themselves, by the sound of them there is not doubt that the packing in them is all but gone that is why they are so loud, even when those pipes were new with fresh packing in them they were pretty darn loud also, if you have the means and ability to open them up to repack them I would suggest doing that if you plan on trail riding it, otherwise get your wallet ready to hand out some ticket money for noise violations.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Jumping it down to those number you'll either burn it down or you don't ride in temps less than +10
Everything i've come across for pipes ultras is running somewhere in that range, also, you will need to play with the needle positions too, iirc there are after market needles out there (or use to be anyway, i'm running flatslides now), what would you recomend?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,378 Posts
mustange70 said:
Jumping it down to those number you'll either burn it down or you don't ride in temps less than +10
Everything i've come across for pipes ultras is running somewhere in that range, also, you will need to play with the needle positions too, iirc there are after market needles out there (or use to be anyway, i'm running flatslides now), what would you recomend?
I would recomend flatslides, they are a WAY better to sync and stay synced. There's alot more to it than just throwing on a set of pipes. Like most, they take a set of pipes, install them and figure that if you fatten up the mains, and play with the E-clip height that's all you have to do and it will be just fine... WRONG... What most don't realize is that at mid range where most of us ride...say just around 6000-7500 RPMs, at a steady rate, for long periods of time and you do not change or adjust for that,(needle diameter-Jet needle/ needle jet) you stand a real good chance of melt down. Main jetting at the 380 range tells me three things. Higher elevation than the 0-3000, air temps, or raceing. Me personally, I don't buy aftermarket when it comes to the guts of my motor. Clutches, springs, helixes...ect, are as far as I'm concerned that's Madcows department (genius)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
yeah the 380's are a tad lean (was working a few other issues that was possibly affecting the jetting, now it's figured and I'll get the jetting close then see what I can do about the needles). bumping back to the 410's and see how it's does.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top