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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do you get these sleds to lift the ski's?? I have the front straps loosened right off and still cannot get any ski lift what so ever. I am used to driving ski-doos owned a few of them and you could set them up that they would almost flip over backwards. So if anyone has any tips or ideas I would be glad to hear them.
Also I am still dealing with my mid range bog so I took the needle from slot #3 and moved it up one so the needle will drop farther in, so this should make it run leaner but I havent had a chance to try it out maybe tonite. A guy I work with has a 2002 with the same problem and he has tried everything possible and he thinks it is a cooling issue and he is going to take his thermostat right out.
 

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May i ask why you would want the skis lifting everywhere? The older sleds are fabricated lower to the ground, wider and alot heavier obviously. And im guessing your sled is a 136"? When you loosen your limiter straps it doesn't really lift easier. In my mind is more of hurting the sled, when you loosen them, your letting the rear skid slap around more then your pulling up, the more you loosing the strap, the more your skis lift up but your skid stays on the ground so it just seems like your wheeling.
 

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Possibly the key to both your desire of ski lift and your problem of mid range bog might lie in clutching.
Doesn't sound like it is clutched right. And in order to get that snap off the line, put a clutch kit on it.
 

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I have a '99 RMK 136 basically stock motor. before I clutched it I had the straps way loose. i could get the skis light but never stood right up without some help from a bump. and now even though the clutch kit puts gobs more power to the ground its better but i still need help from a bump. i dont find having the straps loose really affected my trail riding performance at all though. still handles pretty good but now i can lift my skis over sticks and stuff when i want to.

Yes i dropped my needle the same way and it runs way more crisp. also make sure your air screw is set proper so it doesnt gum up your motor when you let off the throttle... my jets are 190/195 and im at 2000 feet
 

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The sks was primarily made as a mountain sled- which means that in design the last thing Polaris wanted was for that front end to come up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
GZ22 said:
I have a '99 RMK 136 basically stock motor. before I clutched it I had the straps way loose. i could get the skis light but never stood right up without some help from a bump. and now even though the clutch kit puts gobs more power to the ground its better but i still need help from a bump. i dont find having the straps loose really affected my trail riding performance at all though. still handles pretty good but now i can lift my skis over sticks and stuff when i want to.

Yes i dropped my needle the same way and it runs way more crisp. also make sure your air screw is set proper so it doesnt gum up your motor when you let off the throttle... my jets are 190/195 and im at 2000 feet
How many turns out is your air screw, mine is 2.5 turns out. I have 190/185 mains and 38 pilots and we are at 1750 feet.
 

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ford08 said:
GZ22 said:
I have a '99 RMK 136 basically stock motor. before I clutched it I had the straps way loose. i could get the skis light but never stood right up without some help from a bump. and now even though the clutch kit puts gobs more power to the ground its better but i still need help from a bump. i dont find having the straps loose really affected my trail riding performance at all though. still handles pretty good but now i can lift my skis over sticks and stuff when i want to.

Yes i dropped my needle the same way and it runs way more crisp. also make sure your air screw is set proper so it doesnt gum up your motor when you let off the throttle... my jets are 190/195 and im at 2000 feet
How many turns out is your air screw, mine is 2.5 turns out. I have 190/185 mains and 38 pilots and we are at 1750 feet.
I believe im at 2 or 2.25 out. with 1371g needles and a SLP air horn. I'm only running 190/195 cause i ride at -20C and colder a lot and i have the airhorn...
 

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get it to lift the skis then u run into a steering problem. who are u tring impress with skiiles
 

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Ski lift will hurt your trail performance, but if you want to do it, loosen the limiter straps, and do you have the rear scissor stop blocks, if so put them all the way back, put your rear torsion spring setting on low, loosen the front shock springs up some also, and pin the throttle and kinda pull back on the bars. But like said, doesn't make for a good turning sled. My 99 xc700, I am running a stock motor, stock pipe, 178-182 jets, 1371G needles in the second clip, clutched, and it will pull the skis even going 60 mph.
 

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Well now, since I own three of the '99 SKS700's, I'd better chirp in here. Ski Lift? Forget it, it's not a short tracker, sure you can mess with the limiter straps, and mover scissor blocks to lower mounting hole, that will only cause lighter steering in the corners. As for your bog in the mid range, I believe I have the answer since I just found out what was causing mine. Pull your secondary a part, check your spring, put a ruler across the spring, the ends "must" line up, if not, pitch the spring and get a new one, case solved. I like Drew's set up on the carbs, and have to go back and give it another try. But, last weekend I was running against a Ultra SPX SE 133.5 skid and a 900 Fusion short tracker, and was dead even with the Ultra, and about 1/2 sled length behind the Fusion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the tips guys, I will order a new spring for my secondary. I have an orange spring in there right now that is set in hole 5, the guy who owned it before me from new said he put a clutch kit in it. Should I try to order an orange spring or just get the factory blue/silver spring. As for the holes on the helix which hole should I have the spring in and what difference do these holes have on performance/rpms.

As for the ski lift, that is just my style of riding not trying to impress anyone. Guys I ride with all have newer sleds polaris and skidoo all 136" and longer and their front ends are in the air when they are hard on the throttle, you want to steer let off a little. Mine is just a snow plow, guess I need a newer sled if I want that but the wife don't like that idea too much lol.
 

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ford08 said:
Thanks for the tips guys, I will order a new spring for my secondary. I have an orange spring in there right now that is set in hole 5, the guy who owned it before me from new said he put a clutch kit in it. Should I try to order an orange spring or just get the factory blue/silver spring. As for the holes on the helix which hole should I have the spring in and what difference do these holes have on performance/rpms.

As for the ski lift, that is just my style of riding not trying to impress anyone. Guys I ride with all have newer sleds polaris and skidoo all 136" and longer and their front ends are in the air when they are hard on the throttle, you want to steer let off a little. Mine is just a snow plow, guess I need a newer sled if I want that but the wife don't like that idea too much lol.
Go for the POO Silver/Blue spring, and if you are running the R-11 Helix, start in #2 hole, if you don't like the shift, go to #3. As for the SKS700, sure it's a 11 year old sled, versus the newer models, it will hold it's own, let us know when it's time to really clutch the sled!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
polaris1man said:
ford08 said:
Thanks for the tips guys, I will order a new spring for my secondary. I have an orange spring in there right now that is set in hole 5, the guy who owned it before me from new said he put a clutch kit in it. Should I try to order an orange spring or just get the factory blue/silver spring. As for the holes on the helix which hole should I have the spring in and what difference do these holes have on performance/rpms.

As for the ski lift, that is just my style of riding not trying to impress anyone. Guys I ride with all have newer sleds polaris and skidoo all 136" and longer and their front ends are in the air when they are hard on the throttle, you want to steer let off a little. Mine is just a snow plow, guess I need a newer sled if I want that but the wife don't like that idea too much lol.
Go for the POO Silver/Blue spring, and if you are running the R-11 Helix, start in #2 hole, if you don't like the shift, go to #3. As for the SKS700, sure it's a 11 year old sled, versus the newer models, it will hold it's own, let us know when it's time to really clutch the sled!!
I am all for REALLY clutching the sled let me know the recipe!!
 

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Since our sleds are similar I will chime in, but wait to see what polaris1man says also, since he has the same sled as you. Mine is a 99 xc700 that I extended to a 144. My setup right now, 10-64 weights, Hsp yellow primary spring(120-310)(36-3800rpm engagement) Epi orange secondary spring in 2nd hole, Hsp 50-36S helix. Right now I will hit 81-8200 rpms, you want 79-8000 with a stock motor and stock pipe.
 

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I take it you are running the stock gearing (23/40)in the SKS700? If so, may I inquire on your seat weight? The reason I ask, my boys are about 1/2-3/4 sled ahead of my fat A$$ (250LB's) across the lake!! But here goes:

Primary: SLP Black/Red spring and 10-62's for weight
Secondary: Poo Silver/Blue, #3 hole, and a EPI 50/34S Helix
Gut the airbox
180/185 Main Jets
Stock 38 Pilot Jets
Stock needles-1368G
1.5 turns out on the air screw
V-Force reeds
SLP pipe/can combo
144 studs down the middle

Dream-o-meter consistent 7900-8000 rpms
 

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dtmmil said:
Hey, when you gutted your airbox, did you pull the foam also? I left the foam in mine, but took the shelves out, thinking about pulling the foam.
Sent yah a PM Drew



ford08 said:
polaris1man said:
ford08 said:
Thanks for the tips guys, I will order a new spring for my secondary. I have an orange spring in there right now that is set in hole 5, the guy who owned it before me from new said he put a clutch kit in it. Should I try to order an orange spring or just get the factory blue/silver spring. As for the holes on the helix which hole should I have the spring in and what difference do these holes have on performance/rpms.

As for the ski lift, that is just my style of riding not trying to impress anyone. Guys I ride with all have newer sleds polaris and skidoo all 136" and longer and their front ends are in the air when they are hard on the throttle, you want to steer let off a little. Mine is just a snow plow, guess I need a newer sled if I want that but the wife don't like that idea too much lol.
Go for the POO Silver/Blue spring, and if you are running the R-11 Helix, start in #2 hole, if you don't like the shift, go to #3. As for the SKS700, sure it's a 11 year old sled, versus the newer models, it will hold it's own, let us know when it's time to really clutch the sled!!
I am all for REALLY clutching the sled let me know the recipe!!
Send me a PM, I got some clutching that will get you where you want to be!!!
 
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