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Discussion Starter #1
Why the heck does it take about 20 pulls to start my sled? After it gets warm it start only after one pull. If I use starting fluid it only takes a few pulls. Why the hell did they not put primers on these sleds? It has new plugs and wires. Once the sled starts it runs great. Is this a normal thing with these sleds?
 

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How good is your compression? I had that happen to my old '85 Indy 400. Took forever to get started but once warm, it would start easily. Also, is your choke working properly?
 

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stuck choke, needles and seats, carbs cleaned?
Lots of variables to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Compression seems good, the choke does work but once it does start is runs awesome. Need to run some Sea-Foam through it yet should help some...
 

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I would check the needles and seats. I had a very similar problem at the beginning of last season. Once I got the needles and seats replaced, it started SOOOOOO much easier.
 

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Does it do this all the time, or just the first time you've started it in a while?
With both of mine, if they haven't been started in a month or more, it takes about 15 pulls to get the gas back up into the carbs.
 

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i would try blowing into the tank it sounds like a little bit of air lock in the gas line

try blowing into the tank while someone pulls it should go right away if that is the problem

we have a few polaris's that will almost not start with out doing this
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It does it almost every time I try to start the sled stitting for awhile or not has the same results. When I first got the sled it had been sitting for a long time. I had to use that air trick. I guess I'll just get some starting fluid. I dont think the shoke is stuck but it may be never know on these things!!! Thanks for the help guys!!!
 

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Pull the carbs apart and give them a good clean, check your needle and seat, and choke. Then try it, My carbs were gummed up after the summer, it took a while to start, now that everything has been cleaned up first pull everytime.
 

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maybe the check valve in the tank is missing, this will let fuel siphon back into the tank, over a period of time.
 

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when we would go to start our 97 xcf it would do the same thing. it would flood itself out within 8 hours of sitting. we rebilt the carbs and everything and it still did it so we tryed turning gas off. then when you start it turn gas on and would start in 5 pulls. i dont know if you turn your gas off when it sitts but try it it might work.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thats a good trick I leave the gas on but off in the summer...
 

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[8D]HA, so my thought was right!!!!!!!!!! That pesky check valve is doing you in. Wealways trun off the gas as soon as we shut down, spent to many HOURS, on the boys XCR, yanking and cursing, because of a stuck needle. the biggest worry is pulling it 19 times and you walk away with the rope, and it ALMOST fired[V]
 

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I still would check the needle and seats, not just one or the other can be replaced, (plus I think they come as a set). When the engine floods and you on your 19th pull, check at the bottom of the crank case under the y-pipe way down below there should be case drains for each cylinder. My XLT had the same problem. I was told it is the material that mikuni used in the early 90's. If you pull the plugs there probably be a whole bunch of gas draining out. If you use starter fluid and start it up there is a chance that the gas in the bottom will ignite and blow the hell out of your crank case. Plus it is also hard on the bearing considering gas cleans the oil out of them. Turning off the gas would work because when you shut the engine down the fuel pump would still have vaccum in it, there for not allowing to sifen the gas from the tank. If the fuel is left on the pump has vaccum, the needles are not sitting in the seats properly and the fuel pump will sifen tell it runs out of vaccum. Therefore when you start the sled the motor is already flooded and you have to build vaccum up in the pump. That's just what I have seen and had expeirence with. From all the sleds I have had everytime they start to cold start flood badly, I have replaced the seats and needles and it seems to work.
 

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starting fluid??? oh no! Talk about a abrupt start. Squirt a gas oil mix from a squirt bottle. Always works for me, and you have oil right away
 

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I forgot to mention that I believe if your crank seals, mainly PTO seal is leaking it will be hard to start. This maybe why if you use starter fluid it helps to start the sled. The motor looses vaccum and cannot pump the fuel and you will be sucking cold air. when the sled is warm the seal fits tighter and doesn't suck any air or just gets you by. when you have the engine started and running, take the started fluid and spray it right on the PTO seal and if it is leaking the engine rpm will most likely go up. This is also causes the sled to run lean too.
 

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I would bet on bad needle and seats, change them in both carbs. If you want to check your choke just get it started and warm it up then at idle put your choke on and if the engine stalls it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks guys for all the tips. It looks like I have a lot to check out!!! How hard and how much would new needles and seats be?
 

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Very easy to replace and about $15 per set.
 
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