[xcsp8]

Hey I was just wondering if anyone out there could help me understand why my chaincase is leaking. I know for sure that it is NOT the drainplug. I had the track replaced last year and everyhting else seems to be fine(i.e. track tension, alignment, secondary and so on). I'm wondering if it could just be the seal from the chaincase being put back together or maybe something more serious. I'm kinda clueless on the matter and if anyone knows what might cause a chaincase leak on a 2001 polaris xc 800 or any for that matter I would appreciate it.
Thanks, Paul

 

[madcow]

chances are the seal has damage from the track swap.

 

[440_Rocket]

My buddy (Bigrok on here) has an 02, and his is leaking too... brand new.... so he is going to pull it apart and look at it... a fix maybe a new seal and then maybe take some silicon sealent and put on top of the new seal... then make sure there is no oil where the seall fits and then put it back together. ;et it sit fora few days then filler up see if that works...

 

[bklf7]

My bet is on the o-ring seals that are on the drive and jack shafts. They are very easy to damage if you are not paying attention.

 

[madcow]

dont put silicone on the shaft next to the seal. it will dry and tear the seal right apart.

 

[xcsp8]

Thanks for your help guys. Something I never seemed to notice until now is after taking off the canister and running my finger down the middle of the case I noticed fresh oil about 3/4 of the way down so I'm guessing a new seal for the case would probably do the trick. I wouldn't use any silicon mainly because if a seal does what it is supposed to do I won't need any. Kind of a stupid question but I'm not finding seals to easily. Anyone know where I could find a set?
Thanks again, Paul

 

[Customized89Trail]

you can order them here http://partsland.com/index.cgi?N=1164908127-107759&P=SM-2001-800-XC-SP-CHAINCASE

also, you should take the cover off of the chaincase and do a visual inspection of everything. there was a semi-common issue on the 01 where the bolt in the bottom gear could break. some issue where it would loosen up a bit and then the gear would flap around and snap it off. happened to mine, then the bolt went around the gear pushing the chain into the side of the chaincase. that cracked the case and dumped all of my oil out. had to get a replacement chaincase.

so get some new chaincase oil, open it up, check it out. the bolt should be torqued to 19 ft.lbs.

 

[xcsp8]

I also noticed a washer that had fallen down by the drain plug. It was in between the space of the inner and outer parts of the belly pan in the drain section. I know washers come into play when replacing a track, but maybe something to do with the leak? This keeps gettin better and better. Any thoughts?

 

[Customized89Trail]

there's a good bit involved in replacing the track. there are lot of washers in different places. on the chaincase end of the driveshaft the only washer is the one that is on the bolt that holds the gear on. without seeing the washer you're talking about, it could be from a lot of places. in order for the washer from the driveshaft to get out, it would have to have not been installed before the cover went on, or have a huge hole in the case for it escape from.

i assume you already have the exhaust out and the cover off?

 

[xcsp8]

canister is out but I got a litle hesitant on taking the cover off till I get the gasket, but I think I'll take it off tommorow just so I can start to figure out whats goin on in there. I had hoped that there was maybe a reason for the washer to be causin a leak but I guess the only way to find out where it came from is to tear apart the entire drivetrain and I'm not about to do that. So, when I take the cover off tommorow I'll let you know if I see anything out of the ordinary. Thanks for your help again. Oh, and something that would make this thing go a lot easier would be a shop manual, however they seem to almost be non existant for the later models. Any Idea where I could snag one? All I have is the blue maintenace book which doesn't explain a whole hell of a lot. thanks

 

[Customized89Trail]

you can get a manual from the dealer part number 9916689 mine is actually sitting on the desk right next to me. best thing to have around. i think it's about $40

don't be afraid to take the cover off. it's a reuseable rubber o-ring gasket. unless it's torn, you don't need a new one. just do one thing at a time. quite likely you don't have to tear the whole drivetrain apart.

 

[xcsp8]

Drained the oil and took the cover off. The seal looks fine, almost brand new in fact. I'm thinking now I'm gonna have to replace one or both of the seals on the shafts. Everything was tight and the chain and sprockets look great. By the way, how much tension should be on the chain? Should it be able to touch the side of the case? So anyway, guess it's the seals. thanks

 

[Customized89Trail]

a few weeks ago someone asked about chain tension so i took this pic of my manual. click to enlarge it. no it should not be able to touch the side of the case.

if you're going to replace the driveshaft and/or jackshaft seals you might want to replace the bearings too while you have it apart. especially if the sled has some miles on it. it's better to do it while you have it apart then have them go bad and take it apart later. if you have a very low mile sled it's probably not neccessary.

definately get yourself a manual, invaluable.

 

[xcsp8]

Just wondering why the seal's would leak oil if all of the oil sits in the bottom of the chaincase. Is it a hard job to replace seals and bearings on the shafts? It doesn't really look like it but I've never done it. thanks

 

[globalwrmgsux]

its not that difficult to replace a drive shaft seal, the difficult part is pulling the skid out and then yanking the drive shaft out. then install a new seal, then get the drive shaft back in there without damaging the new seal you just paid for....and on and on.

 

[xcsp8]

Just wondering why I would have to remove the drive shaft when all I'm doing is replacing the seal and bearing in the chaincase. It looks to me like if I just remove the entire chaincase that I should be able to do what I need to do. I have a factory service manual on the way, but till then I'm in the dark.

 

[Customized89Trail]

Originally posted by xcsp8
[br]Just wondering why I would have to remove the drive shaft when all I'm doing is replacing the seal and bearing in the chaincase. It looks to me like if I just remove the entire chaincase that I should be able to do what I need to do. I have a factory service manual on the way, but till then I'm in the dark.

you're right from what i remember. had mine all out last winter. i think you should be able to take the case right off without removing the skid or driveshaft. you'll want to take the tension off the track so you can wiggle the driveshaft around a when you put it back in. maybe do it with the sled on it's side.

 

[xcsp8]

It's funny you should mention that cause just a little while ago I was out in the garage trying to get the case off and it wouldn't budge from the driveshaft. The top end of the case wanted to come out but the drive end wouldn't let it. Thats a good tip, I'll try loosening the track, I didn't even think of that. Still waiting on my service manual by the way, should have been here by now but hopefully this week. Another question though, any tips on getting the caliper back on safely? Is it just as easy to slip it back on the rotor as it is to unbolting it and slipping it off? Thanks for your help again. -Paul

 

[bklf7]

should be as easy as long as you dont squeeze the brake when you have the caliper off.

 

[xcsp8]

I picked the sled off the ground and loosened the track, what a difference that made. The case came out smooth, no need to remove the shafts or anything. Just wondering now if anyone has any tips on taking out the seals and bearings. Hard job? I hope when I get my service manual it will run me through it, but like I been sayin, I'm still in the dark. Any help on the situation would be great. Thanks again guys. -Paul