Snowmobile Fanatics banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
FOR SALE:

2008 Polaris Switchback Dragon 700 CFI. $5,900 cash gets you a great sled with a LOT of updgrades and extra stuff.

Links to some nice high resolution pics:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale3.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale4.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale5.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale6.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale15.jpg

It has 4,003 miles on the chassis, and ZERO miles on the top end of the motor. FRESH TOP END REBUILD was done by my Polaris dealer with all Polaris parts at the end of last season…with two new pistons and one new cylinder. It suffered a lean burndown on the PTO side, I believe due to my own error, in running 10% ethanol fuel with the ethanol wires plugged in (which I now fully realize was probably a BAD idea). But now with this new dealer rebuild, the buyer of this sled is free to break it in however you want to break it in. This rebuilt motor has been started only about two times for maneuvering on and off a trailer, but never ridden. The dealer spent a LOT of time looking for air leaks and other problems that might have caused this burndown and could find NONE…this is why I’m pretty sure that plugging in the ethanol wires proved to be a BAD idea, and entirely my fault. (They are unplugged now…I’ll give you a tutorial if you need an education on these). Anywho…I will give any potential buyer a full dealer receipt itemizing what was done. Photos proving that it runs:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale35.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale33.jpg

Also, the primary clutch was also fully replaced under warranty about 500-ish miles ago, when a motor mount broke and spit into the clutch, causing a crack. So it also has a nearly BRAND NEW primary clutch straight from Polaris…and one new motor mount. So that’s TWO major mechanical items you won’t need to worry about for a while…ENGINE and PRIMARY CLUTCH. That should help ease any of your 4,000 mile jitters. I also have full dealer documentation of this repair.

This sled is factory equipped with hooked handlebars, mountain grab strap, digital tach or speedo programmable dash with 2 trip meters, electronic fuel gauge, water temp display, EZ adjust headlamp aiming from cockpit, 700 cc semi-direct batteryless fuel injected “Clean-Fire 4” motor rated at 140 hp, PERC electronic pushbutton reverse, freestyle seat, Ryde FX Air 2.0 front shocks with 10” of front travel, RydeFX Compression adjustable rear track shock with remote reservoir clicker, 5.25” handlebar riser, fully coupled 136” rear suspension with 14” of rear travel, etc, etc…

In addition to the factory accessories, this sled has had thousands of dollars spent on aftermarket upgrades, and it is now set up the way I feel Polaris SHOULD have set it up from the factory. Now, rather than just a plush trail sled, it is a TRULY CAPABLE boondocker…the way crossover Switchbacks should have been built. Here’s a summary of what has been changed MECHANICALLY from stock:

Power Commander III fuel controller with Dynotech engineering programming for stock exhaust….good for about 11 HP over stock.
• Clutching to match, my own “clutch kit”….consisting of the following:
• 11-68 weights ground down to about 66.5 grams
• Black/green (120/340) primary spring
• 64/46.46 helix
• black/green (140/220) secondary TEAM spring
• 2 delrin washers in secondary
• 23/39 gears
• factory 115 belts (you get two of these, both are used but still in good condition)
• Homemade high flow intake horn and additional homemade intake vents in the hood, made from SLP material. These are identical in function to the SLP air horn and 4 flo-rites…I just copied their design and made them look a little different. I also put in one small cooling vent of the same material for the primary clutch.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale32.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale27.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale26.jpg

That is the full extent of engine/mechanical upgrades. As you can see, I did nothing out of the ordinary and nothing severe…I just got it perfectly clutched for running with the PCIII fuel program to make it one of the QUICKEST and BEST FUEL MILEAGE 700 CFI’s you will find.

I should add that I also have ALL of the stock clutching parts, in the event that you prefer not to run the PCIII fuel controller and therefore need to return to stock clutching.

AND, I have ALL of the necessary clutching parts to clutch to run this sled at 10,000 ft of altitude, just in case you choose to take it up to the mountains like I did one year.

Random pic showing some of the extras I am including in this sale:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale2.jpg

Now we’ll move on to the CHASSIS upgrades I have performed:

• Polaris GRIPPER RMK skis with Bergstrom triple-point carbides and ski savers (about 50% worn). A much wider and better off-trail ski compared to the stock IQ skis, yet still equally capable of railing the corners on-trail with the Bergstrom triple-point setup.

• 136 x 15 x 1.5" fully clipped Camoplast Intense track. No more stock Ripsaw. I upgraded to a much better crossover track for boondocking. No studs….completely unnecessary. This thing hooks up on hardpack almost as well as it shovels through deep powder. The perfect crossover track.

• Hyperfax -- AWESOME hyfax material…wears like steel (these have about 3,000 miles and show almost ZERO wear…amazing), they reduce friction in the track like you wouldn’t believe, it is very free-rolling in all conditions. Mine are BLUE, which is a little odd looking to some on this red snowmobile…but I got a heckuva discount on blue ones back when I wanted to try them. In case the blue bothers you, I also have a very lightly used pair of the original white hyfax, if you prefer to put them back on to make it look normal.

• Polaris tunnel bag – Good condition with no rips, and very roomy.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale36.jpg

• Snow-evacuator running boards – They look factory, but they’re not…Made by Johnmaster, they offer significant additional running board strength, as well as much larger holes to prevent ice and snow buildup, and dramatically increased boot traction. I love these, and if you go off trail, you will too.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale31.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale30.jpg

• Medium tinted windshield – taller than stock, notably warmer for those high speed runs, but it still doesn’t make you look like a complete dork.

• RSI high-power heated handwarmers, RSI aluminum hooks and nice and sticky one-piece grips – The factory Polaris warmer and hooks were very COLD. These are VERY, VERY warm…including the hooks right up to the very ends. They work with the factory lo/med/high switch, and it looks like a factory install…this is the way Polaris SHOULD have made their handwarmers.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale8.jpg

• 12V accessory outlet – power your GPS, recharge your cell phone, etc.

• Heated visor plug

• Rear view mirror – low profile, mounted by left knee. Nothing fancy, but does allow you to see backwards without any mirrors sticking out the side. A basic functional mirror that creates no boondocking/tree branch interference.

• Skinz Knee pads on the fuel tank.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale7.jpg

• Homemade LED taillamp – factory taillamps on these Switchbacks are notorious for burning out light bulbs. No more. This is a very bright, very safe, and very functional LED semi-truck-trailer-light that I grafted into the stock taillamp housing myself. I think it looks pretty good, and everyone behind me always comments on how my light is the easiest to see out of the pack, without being blinding. See pics. If you don’t like it, I am also including the factory taillamp and it can easily be restored to stock….nothing on the sled was cut here, so it’s an easy bolt-on swap if you don’t like the LED I made. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale34.jpg

• Factory Air 2.0 front shocks have been upgraded with schrader valves in all 4 chambers. Now you can fine-tune these shocks to ride AWESOME with the 300psi shock pump that I am ALSO including in this sale. I’ll share with you my preferred PSI numbers, and you can fine-tune how you’d like the sled to ride from there. The conversion was done by Diamond Shocks about 2 seasons ago, and they work great. I LOVE these shocks with their infinite adjustability.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale25.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale22.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale21.jpg

• Factory Ryde-FX rear track shock (clicker/remote reservoir) was rebuilt and revalved by Diamond Shocks approximately 1 season ago. Revalved for moderately-aggressive trail riding, it now absorbs bigger hits and stutter bumps MUCH better than factory valving, which I DID NOT like. That’s fixed now, and the shock is great…rides much better in all conditions.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale17.jpg

• The front factory track shock has stock valving. It was replaced under warranty one season ago when it blew apart. The new replacement seems to work great, and it is only 1 year old with about 1,000 miles on it.

• Polaris black skid plate.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale24.jpg

• Polaris black RMK a-arm protectors.

• All the stupid and ugly warning stickers have been peeled off and discarded. That’ll teach them stupid lawyers…

• A purple toy dragon zip-tied to the hood…ready to POUNCE! He’s a cute, yet mean-looking little guy…and and he always holds on tight…
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale37.jpg

I have run this machine on Polaris full synthetic Gold injection oil exclusively. I have kept the chassis greased SEVERAL times per season…usually after every trip. Exhaust valves cleaned annually (one was also replaced brand new with the engine rebuild). Chaincase fluid changed annually. Off-season storage has always been in my humidity controlled, enclosed, insulated, climate-controlled workshop. Transport has always been done via enclosed trailer. No salt spray ever = NO RUST. I don’t have a cover for it because I don’t need one. All recalls and updates and reflashes have been completed…sled is totally up-to-date. I have papers to prove it. Basically I’m one of those guys who over-maintains his stuff. Want proof? Come visit me and see my workshop. Nuff said.

Over 80% of the miles on this sled have been put on in the western UP of Michigan. I don’t waste much time riding in crappy conditions, so it’s almost always been in deep and/or clean groomed snow with very few exceptions. And I had it on one trip out to Wyoming in the Snowy Range and it worked very well out there in the bottomless powder. And on occasion I get an opportunity for a test & tune fun-ride here after the rare central Indiana snowstorm.

Is this machine 100% perfect? No. Full disclosure…here are 100% of the known flaws:

• Track has one outside lug torn off. And about 3 other lugs have partial tears/small cuts, but they are all hanging on strong. I believe this track has many thousands of miles left in it yet, and the lugs show VERY little wear. Those few that are torn are due to spinning on a sharp hidden rock when I was climbing a hillside during the Wyoming trip about 2,000 miles ago. I remember the moment clearly and have been riding the track since then with no spreading of the minor damage. Beyond that light lug damage, the rest of the track looks nearly new. Couple pics:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale18.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale17.jpg

• The left ski has light gouging at the left edge. I suppose I grazed a curb or rock or trailer edge at some time. Doesn’t affect function, the ski is solid.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale12.jpg

• The left clutch cover has scratches on the Dragon decal. You probably wouldn’t notice them if I didn’t point them out because the graphic is so “busy” with a bunch of scratch-looking lines anyway. The panel is not cracked or anything…just a scratched decal, probably from boondocking between trees that were too close together.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale10.jpg

• The front bumper/nosepan/fender has been cracked. I bumped a sled in front of me when this one was nearly new. That’s when I learned that these junk factory IQ bumper/plastic front ends can crack VERY easily. Even Polaris acknowledged this when they updated the front bumpers on these sleds for the 2010 model year. I plastic-welded the cracked parts together, and I added some metal ‘L’ brackets/bolts under the hood to reinforce it. Except for a pencil-eraser-sized hole at the top edge of the left fender, the damage and repaired areas are barely visible, and you need to know where you’re looking under the hood to notice it. It has been good enough for me, and the repair was done 3 years ago. If I were to keep this sled, I would continue to ignore it. But there are many aftermarket and Polaris bumper options out there if you would like to do an upgrade to truly fix this. I can help you find the options if you like.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale11.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale14.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale13.jpg

• Aluminum tunnel has normal minor surface scuffing and scratching. It has no dents or gouges at all.

• The seat has 2 or 3 very VERY small holes at the lower edges of the cover, where the seat material wraps around under the seat at a sharp edge. The biggest flaw is about ½ the diameter of a pencil eraser, other two are about the size of a pinhead. NO flaws on the surface, no rips, no tears, and nothing to worry about spreading. You would never know they’re there if I didn’t point them out, but I have nothing to hide.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale39.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale28.jpg

• Dash has 4 small holes drilled in it where I had my GPS mounted. Maybe you want to mount your GPS here to cover the holes? Or fill them with plastic darts or a decal if they bother you.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale9.jpg

• You’ll find a few rope burn marks near the starter rope, as all of the pull-start Polaris’s have.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/craze1cars/switchback4sale.jpg

• AND there are some normal-use surface scuffs on the plastic windshield and a few minor brush-mark scuffs on the side panels…as most all snowmobiles have.

That’s it! All known flaws are now 100% disclosed. Everything else about the sled is in very very good condition, and YOU get to break in a brand new motor in the way YOU want to break it in…a fresh slate.

ALL for $5,900. But even at that asking price, I’ll work with ya. Maybe you don’t want the Power Commander fuel controller? And maybe you just want stock clutching instead of my Power Commander tuned clutching and altitude clutching? If you want me to keep some of these extra parts to sell on my own, I WILL sell you the sled cheaper yet. That’s just an example. And I’m very capable and willing to set this sled up for you however you would like it to be set up. So tell me what you’re interested in, and what you think it’s worth, and I’ll be happy to haggle with ya a bit. Shoot me an offer!!!

I doubt you have anything I’d be willing to trade for, so please don’t bother me with trade offers. If you don’t have the cash now, find it first and THEN contact me. BUT…maybe a really nice in-line 2 or 3 place enclosed trailer??? That’s about all I might think about working into a trade. So if you have one of those you would part with, go ahead and try me.

I am the original owner of this snowmobile. I snow-checked it from Polaris in the spring of 2007, and bought it new that same fall. I have the original certificate of origin from the dealer, my Indiana registration (which is expiring this fall), and I will provide you with a bill of sale. Indiana does not title snowmobiles, so I do not have a title. I have the owner’s manual AND I have a digital copy of the factory service manual on my computer…of which I am happy to burn a copy for you to CD.

PM me your phone number if you are a serious buyer and want to discuss more details...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,786 Posts
Not going to lie, this is an amazing ad! Everybody should do it like that!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hopefully being very thorough right out of the gate helps to keep questions and wasted time to a minimum...for everyone...

I can't imagine what it could be LOL, but just in case I actually missed something, serious shoppers are welcome to call my cell to discuss further 317-491-4011.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,786 Posts
craze1cars said:
Hopefully being very thorough right out of the gate helps to keep questions and wasted time to a minimum...for everyone...

I can't imagine what it could be LOL, but just in case I actually missed something, serious shoppers are welcome to call my cell to discuss further 317-491-4011.
Not trying to be the part out guy, but if as you mentioned, someone buys the sled without the PC III and clutching, I will buy them!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Stay tuned, you might get your chance. I'm going to give sale attempts a few months first as a whole unit. But if I don't get what I feel is a reasonable offer to sell it whole, I will not hesitate to part this ENTIRE sled out. Because I live outside the snowbelt I sometimes have difficulty selling sleds...which has resulted in part-out decisions several times. In fact this would be almost the 10th sled I've parted, so I'm certainly no stranger to the extra cash I will earn by selling it in pieces. It's just the time and hassle factor that kinda sucks. But I won't resign myself to a part-out decision until sometime in November...so there's plenty of time for someone to buy the whole machine however they might like it configured, if I can find a cash buyer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bump with a small price drop. I think I'm fairly priced, but I also still have not sold it...a mid-summer snowmobile sale attempt may not be my best move.

BUT I do have patience. I will slowly trickle down the price until we get closer to buying season, or until someone makes me a fair offer early...in either case and no matter what the price, I guarantee you that all of a sudden this sled WILL be sold no later than mid-November! My new replacement is already in the garage, so I simply don't need this one anymore.

So if you're interested, don't miss out on it!

$5,875 OBO.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top