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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will it bolt right up? I'll be swapping air box,carbs,cdi and exhaust, but do you guys see any problem that I might have? Are they the same offset when mounted?
 

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yeah it will bolt in. you will have to mount the cdi onto the chassis. you will have to re-route your coolant hoses. and probably drill a new hole in the belly pan for the pipe. want any pics i can show you. i just put my 88 indy 650 motor into my 94 xlt chassis. thing runs awsome! so much power. i left in the stock xlt gearing and i can pull the skis's off te ground whenever i want. fastest hybrid i ever built.
 

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use the xlt motor straps and it bolts in
 

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Wait a sec. All 650's were already in XLT (wedge) chassis'. So what is the 'hybrid' part? Maybe hood and suspension?
awesome sled regardless.
 

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The XLT which stands for Xtra Light Triple was either 579cc or 597cc and all wedge chassis are not XLT's and therefore some wedges would need mods in order for the swap to work but as for the XLT if you use the mounts off the XLT engine and put them on the 650 should be smooth going for the swap.
 

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i did the same swap, 1992 indy 650 chassis with a 1993 xlt engine. the only problem was the cooling hoses, had to be used from the xlt. very easy swap.
 

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should be easy i would think. hell ive got a 650 motor in a '79 centurion.
 

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the 650 will bolt rite up into your xlt. you dont need the xlt 580 brackets. they are the same. may be different if you have the evolved chassis but in this case you dont have to worry about it. only thing is, is that you have to re direct your coolant hoses. i packed a 88 650 that is ported polished and have psi tripple pipes and i couldnt have done anything beter for what i wanted out of it.i can pull the ski's rite off the ground like nothing all the way up to like 35-40 mph its insane. put in a camoplast preditor track and its fully studded and hooks up great. all i have to do to it now is get that extra 10 in it. she is a screamer!!!!
2010824143444766_11412.jpg

20102613565236_11412.jpg

201026135642708_11412.jpg


its totaly different now. its all black and red now and has new ski's riser and hooks looks really sharp. 1
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Awesome, thanks for the input guys...

B4 I locked up the crank in my xcr 600(last weekend). I was swapping the 650 into a 95 xcr 440. I already had it mounted and plumbed just needed exhaust brakets. The motor straps I made at work on a 230ton Cincinnati out of some 1x2 aluminum bar stock.

This swap will be a hole lot easier if it just drops in haha. I just need some triple pipes, Which are impossible to find. Been looking for over a year now w/ no luck. I know a guy w/ some slp's but he wants 450+shipping [Disappointed]

I might just gut my can for a more throaty sound till I find pipes. Anyone done this b4. Will I lose tq/hp or have to mess w/ jetting and clutching?



fasttxl340 said:
should be easy i would think. hell ive got a 650 motor in a '79 centurion.
Haha nice I bet that goes like hell
 

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Moparfever4ever said:
Awesome, thanks for the input guys...

B4 I locked up the crank in my xcr 600(last weekend). I was swapping the 650 into a 95 xcr 440. I already had it mounted and plumbed just needed exhaust brakets. The motor straps I made at work on a 230ton Cincinnati out of some 1x2 aluminum bar stock.

This swap will be a hole lot easier if it just drops in haha. I just need some triple pipes, Which are impossible to find. Been looking for over a year now w/ no luck. I know a guy w/ some slp's but he wants 450+shipping [Disappointed]

I might just gut my can for a more throaty sound till I find pipes. Anyone done this b4. Will I lose tq/hp or have to mess w/ jetting and clutching?



fasttxl340 said:
should be easy i would think. hell ive got a 650 motor in a '79 centurion.
Haha nice I bet that goes like hell
dont gut the can. you can pick up a set of pipes for $175-200 anywhere. look on craigslist. i got my psi racing pipes for $175 three individual pipes with flanges.

pipes are designed for certain sleds. dont want to blow it up. and you have to jet accordingly or you will blow it up as well.

if you get a stock pipe than you can jet to oem specs and play with it from there.

if you need a stock pipe i got one. i kept it around just in case i wanted to go back to a stock pipe or sold the sled. pm me if intrested inthe stock pipe.
 

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Moparfever4ever said:
Awesome, thanks for the input guys...

B4 I locked up the crank in my xcr 600(last weekend). I was swapping the 650 into a 95 xcr 440. I already had it mounted and plumbed just needed exhaust brakets. The motor straps I made at work on a 230ton Cincinnati out of some 1x2 aluminum bar stock.

This swap will be a hole lot easier if it just drops in haha. I just need some triple pipes, Which are impossible to find. Been looking for over a year now w/ no luck. I know a guy w/ some slp's but he wants 450+shipping [Disappointed]

I might just gut my can for a more throaty sound till I find pipes. Anyone done this b4. Will I lose tq/hp or have to mess w/ jetting and clutching?



fasttxl340 said:
should be easy i would think. hell ive got a 650 motor in a '79 centurion.
Haha nice I bet that goes like hell
I have an old old set of slp pipes id let go for cheap. they have a few issues but still very useable send me a pm if your interested
 

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there ya go get them pipes while you can!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have an old old set of slp pipes id let go for cheap. they have a few issues but still very useable send me a pm if your interested
Awesome!!!! What kind of issues though, and do you have the flanges? Pm me with price...



Its gonna have to be piped to fit my 600. The manifold hits the pitman arm bolt and cant turn right. Nor will the stock pto coil mount work. It hits the 600 motor mount strap and is in the way of the torque stop. Not only that but I will need a reducer for my brack cooler as its bigger than the 650 "head rail" inlet.

Nor will the stock exh exit work as the 600 can is 3" shorter. But it mounts diff too, it sits on a mushroom isolater thats on a bracket from the bumper rail to the chain case. The 650 can mounts to the back of the ign switch bracket area.

I'm having the same issues w/ my 440, except the pitman arm doesn't hit my manifold. My 440 steering linkage is inside the bulk head. My 600 sits above. My 600 is too nice to cut/weld/drill to make this work. So the 440/650 swap will still be my plan as the 440 is a p.o.s, but my back hurts like hell from lifting the motor in and out 6 times bms, so I called it a day.
 

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if you are putting the 650 into the xlt chassis there should be no clearance issues. if you have clearance issues then something is not aligned properly. my pipes dont hit anything and i have no problem with any part of the steering notclearing the full radius. does your xlt chassis look like this?
201026135648145_11412.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
MicahMan said:
if you are putting the 650 into the xlt chassis there should be no clearance issues. if you have clearance issues then something is not aligned properly. my pipes dont hit anything and i have no problem with any part of the steering notclearing the full radius. does your xlt chassis look like this?
201026135648145_11412.jpg
It's not an xlt, Its a 95 xcr 600. The sled I had already transplanted it to was a 95 xcr 440, but wasn't finished plumbing it. Here are some pics and problems I have.


2010122420508921_23385.jpg
Here you can see how the pitman arm for the drag link to the steering post sits above the bulkhead, like your xlt. This is whats hitting my pipe
2010122420414978_23385.jpg

2010122420439609_23385.jpg
See how my 440 pitman arm is inside the bulkhead.
20101224204710796_23385.jpg
Here you can see the bolt hitting the pipe. This is were triple pipes would help.
20101224204831843_23385.jpg
Then I relized that the ear for the recoil on the bottom half of the case hit the bulkhead. Idk why I didn't see this last night. But i noticed tonight that the motor didn't wana sit square and flat, it wanted to rock. I didnt have this problem with the 440 cuz I was able to use my Aaen torque plate as a riser. I couldnt use the torque plat on the 600 cuz the drag link hit the edge of the plate and I would've had to put a pretty big notch in the plate to clear. I could just drill a hole for the ear to sit in, or put the motor on similar type riser but i'd rather not
20101224204913812_23385.jpg

20101224205049453_23385.jpg
Here's were the ear hits the bulkhead
20101224204345671_23385.jpg
Here you can see how the plug wire is bent at a 90 to clear for the strap. This would wear a hole through the sheathing in no time unless I changed it to a 90deg boot. It would still be really close even w/ a 90
20101224204422281_23385.jpg
here's with the coil out
20101224204539953_23385.jpg
Here you can see that the torque stop is only inline w/ half the jug.
20101224204628562_23385.jpg
and then here you can clearly see there is no room for the coil and torque stop together. So The coil will have to be relocated anyway and the torque stop bent over some

20101224204226437_23385.jpg
here's the 600 can in front of the 650. The 600 has a bottom V braket that sits on a hanger (next pic) and the exit pipe is 3 inches to the back. The 650 mounts on a bracket behind the ignition switch/choke/hand warmer plate. I could just weld a similar V bracket to the 650 can if the exit pipe wasn't 3" off, agin a set of pipes w/ stingers would fix this delema.
20101224205145593_23385.jpg
Here's the hanger bracket for the can in the 440 i was talking about. My 600 had the same style until I removed it to make room for my stingers.

I'm just gonna scrap the 600/650 idea and continue with the 440 as it will be easier with stock exhaust and even easier with pipes.
 

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my 650 coil is the same and i have no problem with the wire being bent on a angle. i see your clearance issues with the exhaust. id say get pipes and you can eliminate almost all of your problems. i never realized if there would be any problems cause i never had the stock can in the xlt chassis. just tripple pipes.
 

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Running into the exact same issues with my 96 xcr. The xlt straps
Moparfever4ever said:
MicahMan said:
if you are putting the 650 into the xlt chassis there should be no clearance issues. if you have clearance issues then something is not aligned properly. my pipes dont hit anything and i have no problem with any part of the steering notclearing the full radius. does your xlt chassis look like this?
201026135648145_11412.jpg
It's not an xlt, Its a 95 xcr 600. The sled I had already transplanted it to was a 95 xcr 440, but wasn't finished plumbing it. Here are some pics and problems I have.


2010122420508921_23385.jpg
Here you can see how the pitman arm for the drag link to the steering post sits above the bulkhead, like your xlt. This is whats hitting my pipe
2010122420414978_23385.jpg

2010122420439609_23385.jpg
See how my 440 pitman arm is inside the bulkhead.
20101224204710796_23385.jpg
Here you can see the bolt hitting the pipe. This is were triple pipes would help.
20101224204831843_23385.jpg
Then I relized that the ear for the recoil on the bottom half of the case hit the bulkhead. Idk why I didn't see this last night. But i noticed tonight that the motor didn't wana sit square and flat, it wanted to rock. I didnt have this problem with the 440 cuz I was able to use my Aaen torque plate as a riser. I couldnt use the torque plat on the 600 cuz the drag link hit the edge of the plate and I would've had to put a pretty big notch in the plate to clear. I could just drill a hole for the ear to sit in, or put the motor on similar type riser but i'd rather not
20101224204913812_23385.jpg

20101224205049453_23385.jpg
Here's were the ear hits the bulkhead
20101224204345671_23385.jpg
Here you can see how the plug wire is bent at a 90 to clear for the strap. This would wear a hole through the sheathing in no time unless I changed it to a 90deg boot. It would still be really close even w/ a 90
20101224204422281_23385.jpg
here's with the coil out
20101224204539953_23385.jpg
Here you can see that the torque stop is only inline w/ half the jug.
20101224204628562_23385.jpg
and then here you can clearly see there is no room for the coil and torque stop together. So The coil will have to be relocated anyway and the torque stop bent over some

20101224204226437_23385.jpg
here's the 600 can in front of the 650. The 600 has a bottom V braket that sits on a hanger (next pic) and the exit pipe is 3 inches to the back. The 650 mounts on a bracket behind the ignition switch/choke/hand warmer plate. I could just weld a similar V bracket to the 650 can if the exit pipe wasn't 3" off, agin a set of pipes w/ stingers would fix this delema.
20101224205145593_23385.jpg
Here's the hanger bracket for the can in the 440 i was talking about. My 600 had the same style until I removed it to make room for my stingers.

I'm just gonna scrap the 600/650 idea and continue with the 440 as it will be easier with stock exhaust and even easier with pipes.
Running into the exact same issues with my 96 xcr. The xlt straps are not turning out to be a "bolt in deal".
 

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650 in a 95 xcr, useing the xlt motor straps, we used psi triple pipes. The only thing we had to mod was the coolant hoses. We had no issuse with the recoil hitting, the coil was close but its been running like that for starting on its 3rd season, without problems. Why your having problems with the recoil hitting, i dont know, wish i could be more help.
2009225181858202_20985.jpg
 

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