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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 91 rxl 650 triple. I have converted it to carbs from efi.used old wire harness and just stripped out wire that I didnt need. got carbs ready to go on,but... when i hit the kill swith I still have spark.? do I need to change the cdi in order to make this transistion work? there is one extra ground wire on my efi setup that if I ground out , there is no spark, but no spark with kill switch up either. Help snow is in the forecast
 

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You should be able to use the CDI yet. Do you have a wiring diagrame to look at?
 

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yea i do just havent got right into it yet, thought I'd ask before getting into that. there is 2 black with white tracer coming off the efi cdi and only one on the diagram for the 650 cdi(non efi)pic from manual. one is now grounded to the cdi bolts on the side, the other is not connected. when i touch the one not connected it eliminates all spark whether the kill switch is up or down.?
 

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K, your black/white should connect up to the ignition and kill switch via a black wire and then the black/white should go to the ECU connector, which obviously can be removed.

Then there should be a black wire coming from the stator to the CDI. Then the CDI sends out a black lead for the return line on the coils. That should be all the blacks right?

Next I would concentrate on the killswitch. The big deal here is not to completely gut, because then you get rid of the red wire you need. That being the red wire coming off of the voltage regulator. This red wire in the RXL system connects up with the circuit breaker for the battery. The circuit breaker and the batter can go, but the red wire still needs to go to the killswitch. Then out of the killswitch you still need the red/white wire to the ignition switch. Out of the ignition switch you should be able to junk the relays and the yellow/black wire.

But, I'm still confused at how you are saying you have an extra ground. You should have one coming into the CDI, and one going out to the coils. Then a black/white wire coming off the CDI and going to the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
right on buddy! I am at work right now, but as soon as i get home i will look at the wiring again and try to decifer whats what.my ignition switch is screwed up to so i will look to find the proper wiring scheme on this. thanks
 

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Hey good to hear bud! Always love hearing another successful triple startup!
 

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hey im just wondering iam doing the same thing on a 91 RXL iam going to convert over to carbs about how much does it ost to get the carbs and the boots? would you let me know about what it cost. if you would that would be great. nick
 

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Discussion Starter #9
depends on who you know. my buddy is big into used parts.but if I paid full price, he would have charged me about 120.00 can$. Icant wait for enough snow to give this new setup a whirl.
did u have lots of probs with efi?
 

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yeeah nothing worked on it thats why iam switching over to carbs. not only that not as much to fix it a guy dont have to dig deep to fix it. nick
 

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Hey out there, I was just reading the advice you gave to the guy above. I have a 91 RXL 650 EFI that has a problem with no spark. I purchased a running engine off Ebay, with Carb modification done to it. The plugs on this new engine's stator/magneto are different from the EFI/CDI box that I have. Are you guys saying that I can rewire & reuse my original EFI/CDI box with the new carb motor?????? All I have to do is hard wire it? I have heard that the signals that the box gives off to the motor are different on every CDI box, including EFI & CARB. Can someone out there confirm please? I'm struggling here with no help from any of the local Polaris dealers! Have not had this sled running in over 2 years.. would like to see if FIRED UP! Thanks! Johnny B Good.
 

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Yes, the RXL CDI can be used on the carbed 650 motor, but you have to do some gutting and changes to the wiring.
 

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Originally posted by Triple650Indy
[br]Yes, the RXL CDI can be used on the carbed 650 motor, but you have to do some gutting and changes to the wiring.
You've got to be kidding.. I have been slamming my head against the wall for a MONTH NOW since I bought this carb motor.. trying to match this new motor's stator to a correct CDI.. No Luck.. Ok. where do I start? I'll attach pictures if necessary.. ANYTHING AND ANY HELP is MUCH appreciated! John.
 

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You've got to be kidding.. I have been slamming my head against the wall for a MONTH NOW since I bought this carb motor.. trying to match this new motor's stator to a correct CDI.. No Luck.. Ok. where do I start? I'll attach pictures if necessary.. ANYTHING AND ANY HELP is MUCH appreciated! If you've got wiring diagrams, let me know. THANKS!!!!!!!! John
 

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Now I don't have my manual home, my brother has it, so I'm going to need some input back. Also, If I had my manual I could tell you the wires you need to hook up where, on both machines, so you will have to dig for yourself a little.

One, the CDI for the RXL should have these wires...

Black/Red
Green
Red
White/Red
White

This should be pretty much the same as the leads coming from the stator of the carb 650 motor. Let me know if I'm incorrect. Hopefully the connectors are the same.

Now, there is a difference between the RXL stator and the stator of the carbed 650. This being that the carbed version two of the coils are in series with one another.



So if you want you can put the wire the stator so they work independently or as one, but it will be more difficult as one, as you'll be changing the number of voltage regultaors you have in your system. Right now in your RXL chassis their should be two. My suggestion just wire them independently. I recommend this if you plan on keeping the EFI or even if you do not. So one of the coils will go to the rectifier, this being the coil with the Gray and gray/white leads on the wiring diagram. The other coil can have one side or should have one side grounded to the motor. Then the yellow lead on the coil in out wiring diagram can go to the other voltage regulator. You'll have to do some digging to find this stuff. One of the regulators should be by the relays and the other should be under an arm that comes out where the battery is. That should take care of that.

Now if you are getting rid of the EFI you can pretty much follow what I've posted above. Hopefully this helps. By the way, I believe the black/white still has to connect to the black for the killswitch along with the red or else you lose the spark. Maybe Polarick will chime in with a definite answer on that.
 

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You so owe me.

http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50746
 

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Thanks bud, I also wanted to post this...

[galleryattach=5068]
 

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Thanks! I spent most of the night checking wires from the schematic & your directions. None of the wiring harnesses have ever been removed, so I just traced the wires to where they should go, left other not needed ones hanging for now. Overall i did not have to make any wiring modifications. I hope I understood what you were describing. We'll see later on today. Wrapped everything up last night. Have spark on all plugs. Need to fill tanks & let r rip ..hopefully all will be good. Update later.. thanks again! John
 

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Saturday night, had it RUNNING! SWEEEEEEET! ...BUT, cant shut off. Kill switch wiring must not be right. Double checked against what you posted to polarick, will have to do more checking. THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP! Never thought that the old CDI would work! If I have any questions, or get stumped, I'll be back! Thanks again John.
 

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The kill switch wiring is the single black wire coming out of your cdi. There should be a plastic connector that simply plugs the two together. Niether the key or the safety switch will work if its unhooked or broken
 
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