[hiklimnrmk]

I've heard removing the ACCS on this will help me with my low end hesitation. Anyone done this before? What is there to the removal? Thanks!

 

[paulxlt]

If you remove the ACCS, you will be over flowing the carburetor most likely leading to engine stall and flooding. If you decide to do it, it might increase low end torque but all in all it is risky.

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Ride Snowmobiles, baseball, bowling, and golf require only ONE ball!!
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[Big Red]

I had this same problem on my 99 700rmk I fixed it by using boyson 2stage reeds and a slp boost bottle. Friends riding the same machine tried removing the accs an inherited lots of problems. After the improvements my sled still runs strong while friends have done everthing from top end to complete rebuilds Good luck!

 

[hiklimnrmk]

BIG RED - can you help me with the Boyson 2 stage reeds?? My dealers out here suck (flatlanders) and they aren't sure which reeds I need. The boost bottle I've got figured out but I want to make sure I've got the correct reeds. I did some web searches & couldn't find anything.

This sled really has a low end miss. I have to nurse it up to about 5 MPH then I can get into it - which is a real problem when you're trying to spin a circle in powder or start a climb.

Do you still ride the 700 RMK with ACCS? I just ordered a 136x1.75 to 151x2 track conversion kit. I'm hoping that by adding to the foot print & fixing this low end miss I can get closer to the hi-mark ski-doo's my buddies ride. (I can't afford to trade this one in & give 4K to boot for a comparable machine..)

Thanks!

 

[Big Red]

It sounds like most of your problem can probably be fixed first with your air screw and needle position. To adjust You either have to have done it or risk leaning out your sled Have You talked with the local dealer? if they can't or wont help the tech line at starting line products Has been great help for me. They like V-force reeds but I think I get more out of the Boysen reeds in comparison to dollars spent. The can be bought at many places or Dennis Kirk If your into that I personally like to buy local And support the area. If you are changing to a longer track you will probably want to change Your clutching Again the guys at slp will become your your greatest ally's. There isn't much these guys can't help with the ride the steep and deep and will make your sled a Highmark Killer! My 99 is with the 136x2. I currently ride 01 800rmk with 151x2" aggressor finger track (new) thanks to my problem with track Dealer gave it to me at cost and installed for free since polaris wouldn't warranty track I guess you have to hand it to good dealers(Yellowstone polaris/polaris west) Let me know how it turns out.

Edited by - Big Red on December 04 2001 11:42:50 PM

 

[hiklimnrmk]

I did drop my needle to reduce idle & low end flow - this helped but didn't cure the problem. I was worried about dropping it more & just as worried about playing with the pilot jet. One thing I didn't mention was that I've already burned this motor down once - it had about 200 miles on it & got too lean. They covered it under warranty but the problem was the clutch weights - it was turning too many RPM's & not getting enough fuel/oil. All of this was low-land. When I was up hi it ran fine but lacked a bit of power & track & had the low-end hesitation I mentioned.

My problem is that it is SUPER snappy down here at 1000 feet so I can't wrench on it to see what works. Then - when I get to the mountains I run in to the issues & I hate wrenching on it while I'm on vacation & could be riding it.

I want to have all the necessary components when I get up hi this year - so I can change & test & change & test until I find the right setup.

Thanks!

 

[RXLRIDER]

I don't know if this will apply, but have you looked in to dial-a-jet. I have them on my 650, and they work well for changes in altitude and temp. Just a thought.

 

[Big Red]

Where are you planning to ride and what's the elevation. I ride out of Bozeman/west yellowstone and start riding at about 6500' I have friends that come from Minnesota And they have started calling slp for jetting and clutch setups that come pretty close with only minor adjustments needed to make their sled purr I can tell you my 99 700rmk runs stock jets, air screw 1 turn out and the needle set all the way down(clip at top) I run 60gram weights with a Square almond primary spring, a50/36 helix with orange spring. Also slp pipes,heads,boost bottle,Boyesen duel stage carbon reeds and stock track(136x2") I have never meet a ski-doo that will run with it, this is a great set up up here. By the way this is now the wifes sled and MY 800 just runs with it. On the hardpack I see nothing but the mudflap, deep snow I have a track advantage. Spring riding she carries more track sped so can out climb me. Thats the setup that works on my sled good luck and let me know how it goes. It has been snowing in the mountains south of here and the snow is approaching stuck level so I will be doing my best to test and track as much as possible this weekend.

 

[hiklimnrmk]

I usually make a trip to Cooke City & a trip to Steamboat Springs, CO yearly - both for 7 to 10 days. My sled (until now) is stock - but I think the needles are 1 setting up from yours - if they are I'm going to drop them when I get out there - I wanted to do it last year but was afraid of a lean burn-down again (I'll just keep an I on the plugs).

As I wrote - I haven't changed anything (yet) but the track is on order, I'm doing the reeds & boost bottle & am printing your settings for the clutches/carbs. 4 of my buddies bought new sleds this year & if I can wrench this one to get up to the Ski-dog 800 hi-marks they'll crap! I'm a better rider than them I just ran out of ooouuumph at the top.

Thanks for your advice - if you want to take it offline I can be reached at [email protected]

think snow!