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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We got a 77maybe (its hard to read)

We don't seem to have any spark one either cylinder. Is there something we could be missing? We don't have a key for it. We did try to jumper the little contacts but we are unsure if we are jumpering them right. We also think the coilpacs could be bad but we're unsure how to check them.

Any tips would be very helpful.
 

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if u dont have a key did you unplug the ignition and pull the kill switch up when u tried it.
 

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i used to just switch the wires going to the coil packs and see if the problem follows.

Rich
 

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Make sure all connectors are clean and tight.Unplug the Key switch and unplug the kill switch. One, or the other, or both, could be bad.If you have a meter test the kill switch for continuity. If that doesn't work try to borrow a coil from a friend and try that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After farting around with some wires and checking the 2 plug wires I managed to get it to run on one cylinder. I'm guessing right now I got one bad coilpack. I'm going to try a couple more things on it to be a little more sure. But at least I'm getting somewhere. Anyone know what the coilpacks run? I am pretty sure it says 10/1977, it is tough to read.

I can't borrow anything off my friends sled cause he has a 02 skidoo, and my regular sled is is a 01 skidoo.This is a sled that my friend got from someone for free, and its just for playing around on.
 

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If it was built 10/77 it's a '78 model year sled
 

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Do you have access to a salvage yard for parts? If so they probably have a coil pack for this sled. Also are the points ok? Condensers could also be the problem but not usually. If you get one side working then just switch the coils around and if the spark changes sides then its the coil. If not then check and in most cases replace the points.
 

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Hey this is just a suggestion as i have gotten burned by this before....check the spark plug cap and/or wire coming from the coil. If it has the resistor type spark plug cap, it may be bad which would cause a no spark condition on that cylinder.
 

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I agree, had a friend that had a 73 panther that had one resistor type plug cap on one and the regular style on the other. He got rid of the resitor style and put new regular style caps on both and solved the prob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/images/users/wmah/P1010845.JPG

Ok here is my current status.
I picked up a couple used coils for around $20.
I tried that, with no luck. So I started playing with the wires again. and decided to unplug both the red and white wires. I then checked to see if they both get power while turning the engine over, and only the white one flashes unless they are both hooked up. Is that what its suppose to do?
TXC suggested points, is that where the red and white wire go to?

This picture should show the wires I'm refering to a little better.
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/images/users/wmah/P1010844.JPG
 

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Yes your points are bad. If you switch the red and white wires around then the oposite cylinder should spark. You can first try and take a piece of computer paper and fold in three. Then put between the point and hold point closed and rub back and forth to clean them. If this does not work then take point off and check to see if the center of points are burnt. If they are there shot. Not a big exspense, but they must be re-installed correctly to insure success. Make sure you gap them to specs. Also clean the new ones if you need them.Do this the same way with the paper to take any oil residue off. My opinion is extra fine sand paper is too ruff and not neccesary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok great I know where to go now. Well almost, where are the points located? I don't want to start guessing and rip everything apart.

I usally work on diesel engines. On a car I think the points are what I see under the distibuter cap. I'm still dredding the idea of possibly having to adjust the carberator.

Oh yeah thanks for the help.
 

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Do you have a electric start motor on this? If so the fly wheel is pressed on and you will need to take alot apart. By taking the recoil off you can get to the points but its a tight fit. Also as a suggestion to you, I see the gas lines are the black rubber type. Not a good idea with mixed gas. The rubber can deteriorate and gum up the carb. I would replace them with the soft silicone ones. Just a thought. What model artic cat is this? A panther?
 

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The points are behind the pull start recoil. There should be like three bolts holding this on. Then you will see a big nut that must come off. Then if you dont have a electric starter on this sled you can use a two or three leg puller to get off. This is very difficult to remove without a puller due to the magnetic pull of the magnito. Once you get this far you can see the points. I would first watch the points while slowly having a budy turn the motor over using the clutch to turn on. You might just have a point that is closed shut and not opening and closing right. There is a lobe on the shaft that causes them to open and close. If they are, then find the specs on the gap they should be and check them. If all this checks out, then clean them and put everything back togather and try again. Or you can just replace them while you have everything apart. I also know that these motors a timed and cant remember just how that all works. I guess that can come later if needed. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yep it has electric start, and it actully works. I think these lines are what my friend had put on when he was trying to get it going. He didn't play a lot on it. I got some clear silicon type hose at the shop, I'll have to try to remember to grab some. Thanks for that tip. Yes I believe its a panther 399.
 

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Now you will have to take the entire side shrowd off along with the starter first. Some real tight spaces to get at a few bolts. Not to piss ya off or anything but it really is easier to just pull the motor out and set on a bench. To pull this motor is about a 30 minute job. That damn starter puts a wrench in this whole thing. I went thru this for a friend last season on a 73 panther with electric start. If you dont pull the engine then at least take the hood off. Start with starter and then the recoil, then the fan shroud. Let me know if ya have any other ?'s Ill try and help. TXC
 

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Look under (the shop) and you will see the forum (if you have parts left over) under this, user-tvan has a link for artic cats to go and find how everything fits. Good site I have been there before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I usally take pictures to help me remember what I took apart. The hood was already off some how much time did I save there? ha ha ha (don't answer that) I'l be moving the sled in the garage tomorrow cause weather forcast looks like rain on saturday. I'm not sure if I can get anything done on it tomorrow or not. Without sites like this some people like me would be lost on this stuff.

I've worked on some vehicles when the only way to do anything on them is by feel. So I'd imagine this can't be too hard, just a little time consuming. If I have problems I won't be afraid to ask.
 

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Go to this site and print out some pages of diagrams it will realy help.
http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/Parts/SNOWMOBILE/
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/images/users/wmah/P1010850.JPG
Ok the photo kinda reflects my status.
I goofed when I said the white one is sparking. Its the red wire that gets the spark, not the white.

So which one of these little parts is most likley the bad part? I tried cleaning the points but it didn't help.

We also really don't think the 2 big copper thing-A-bobbers are bad either. Forgive me I'm not sure what there called.
 
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