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I have a '99 800 XCR that I purchased a couple of years ago. If it sits for more than a few hours without shutting of the fuel valve, the engine floods. If left for more than a day or two, it can collect enough fuel in the crankcase to hydro-lock it. It also ran extremely rich if the air temp was above about 25F.
I have disassembled and cleaned the carbs (there was a lot of white gunk in the float valve/seat area). I examined the float valves and they all looked OK - one appears to have been previously replaced. I checked the main jets, they are stock. I re-assembled the carbs, replacing one leaking bowl gasket. I tested the float valves by holding the carbs upside-down (with the weight of the floats holding the valve shut) and could not blow any air by the valves.
The sled runs much better in warm temps now, but the flooding while parked problem still exists. Any ideas? I hate to "shotgun" in new float valves as you have to install the entire float assy for about $45/carb. Is there a better test for float valve sealing? I don't recall that there was any way to set the float height either, as it was all plastic.
Thanks for any suggestions you might have.
I have disassembled and cleaned the carbs (there was a lot of white gunk in the float valve/seat area). I examined the float valves and they all looked OK - one appears to have been previously replaced. I checked the main jets, they are stock. I re-assembled the carbs, replacing one leaking bowl gasket. I tested the float valves by holding the carbs upside-down (with the weight of the floats holding the valve shut) and could not blow any air by the valves.
The sled runs much better in warm temps now, but the flooding while parked problem still exists. Any ideas? I hate to "shotgun" in new float valves as you have to install the entire float assy for about $45/carb. Is there a better test for float valve sealing? I don't recall that there was any way to set the float height either, as it was all plastic.
Thanks for any suggestions you might have.