[mnmark]

I would like to drain the oil and change the filter and refill with amsoil. But I have no manual and no experience with sleds.
I am very mechanically inclined and plan to build a N2O fed asphalt sled come spring.
Whats a good place to buy a manual?
Is adding the SLP extra fuel pump really worth the effort?Is the aftermarket pipe & chip worth the cash ovre the stock pipe?
how much does ceramic coating cost for a pipe?
Thanks

91 polaris indy 650rxl

 

[RXLRIDER]

To drain the oil on the RXL, you need to remove the chaincase. Buy a new rubber gasket from polaris at the same time. Your best bet (so there is little mess) it to lay her on the left side. Then remove the cover. Use a fluid transfer pump to remove all the old oil. Then add new. I am using a synthetic oil from Polaris. Check your gears and chain for wear or stress cracks. To add the new oil, put her back on the skiis. Remove the oil bolt from the chanicase cover, and fill her up. It is full when the oil is at the level of the fill plug. As to the oil filter - there is none. You do have two fuel filters. One is the standard snowmobile filter, the other is a high pressure filter. I found a good replacement from Napa auto parts. N20?? If you build high output, then I'd rebuild the crank. I have heard of people using Storm connecting rods in the 650's. My RXL has not changed from stock. They are extremly fast. When running right she'll do 110 MPH, and keep up with the Storms off the line. Make sure that battery stays fully charged. I have melted down three times due to a bad battery. I have just changed over to carbs to avoid that problem. I know that you can get a turbo for the RXL's that is supposed to make somewhere near 250 HP! The pipe and chip adds 20-30 HP. When you start fooling with the RXL's, you start to have problems. The 91's had a bad battery 9AA, there is a kit that will allow you to install the 14AA. I'd invest in EGT gauges first to avoid the lean burndowns.

 

[xltman]

i think what mnmark is refering to is the oil resevoir for the oil injection. the easiest way i know is to remove the bottle, but plug the line with something to ensure the oil spillt down the belly is minimal, then just drain her out into an old container of some sort, be sure to label though. id also replace the in-line filter, and put it back togather, then you have to bleed the oil pump/and lines. i think it was BMAN that used shop air pressure (if you have that available to you) and pressure bleed. im not sure about your sled, but i have also read that there is a nipple, like what you find on your brake caliper called a bleeder screw, while using the pressure, crack that screw open and force the oil through until no bubbles are in the lines.

as far as a manual, i know that clymer makes a manual for your specific sled, you could order one online, or check with your local auto parts stores, they may be able to order one for you, they may be anywhere from $15-25 bucks. or goto your local polaris dealer.

 

[RXLRIDER]

I think I had chaincase on the brain beacuse I just got finished helping a buddy do the same. There is a bleeder screw on the oil pump.

 

[Bman]

Actually I just opened the bleeder valve and let gravity win. Air pressure seemed like a little overkill to me.

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I think.... therefore I sled
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Two '94 Indy XLT SKS