91 Polairs Reverse adj.

Just turn the bolt until it doesn't seem lose anymore. Don't overtighten or undertighten. I would also make sure that it is ful of oil in there.


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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by jmck70eb:

I recently purchased a 91 Polaris Indy Classic 500. after putting on about 250 miles i started to hear a grinding sound when i start out, sounds like a sprocket or a gear jumping.. Seems to be coming from the right side where the reverse housing is.. I checked the bearing in the jackshaft and drive shaft & they seem good... I can see a tensioning bolt on the rev. housing but I'm not sure how to set it for the proper tension? Oh, the guy I purchased the sled from said that the reverse gears had been replaced.. So I'm guessing there good and only need adjusting.. I'm hoping anyway... Thanks Jim

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I've got a 97 XLT SP w/Rev. My drive chain blew last season, shattering the case and stripping several teeth off of some gears. I had to replace the entire set up (pain in the a$$).

It definately sounds like your chain is slipping (obviously not good). To adjust the tention of the chain, you need to locate the bolt and nut on the right hand side of the case (as your looking straight at the case).

First loosen the lock nut that is on the bolt, and against the case.

Then finger tighten the bolt. My manual then states that you should back the bolt out by 1/4 turn. This leaves the correct amount of "play" in the chain.

Then tighten the lock nut down w/a wrench. Be sure to have a wrench also on the head of the bolt to prevent it from moving when you tighten the nut; and there you have it.

Also like Erick said, be sure to check that the oil in the case is at the proper level. I try to use my rev as little as possible to "preserve" it. You should check the tension of the chain fairly frequently to be sure it has the proper amount of play in it. You don't want to have to replace everything like I did....$600 for the whole kit and kabootle. Best of luck to you.




1997 XLT SP 600

Sled_Dog, where did your father apply the shim, and can you give me a little more info on it, and what it exactly did for you. I might try this mod on mine during the summer. Thanks.



1997 XLT SP 600

Ok. So I loosened the tensioning bolt and had to run it in about seven revolutions before it started to snug up.. So I decided to remove the chain cover.. and it was a good thing I did..
First problem is that there's no way to check the oil level.. no dip stick or oil plugs, More on that later.
Second problem is that there was next to no oil in it!.. but I caught it in time.. needle bearings and gears are still good..the chain was dry as a fart!! must of stretched and started jumping.. the rubber chain case cover seal was cracked where it goes around the bottom of the chain case and I'm figuring the oil leaked out over time.. or they never put any oil in it when they put in the new gears..
So how do I check the oil in this thing? there's only the tensioning bolt hole and another 3/8 bolt below that .. If you were standing on the right side of the machine looking at the cover and the tension bolt was at the 2:00 o'clock position then the other would be at the 4:00 o'clock position.. well above the drive shaft gear!! I'm thinking that you would only want the oil to come half way up on the drive shaft gear so that it didn't submerge the oil seal?
lastly, there was a spacer missing that goes between the chain case cover and the small gear thats engaged when it's in reverse.. dont know what it's called!
Also Hotrod said something about a spring? when I look at this setup it looks like there should be a spring between these 2 small gears to keep them disengaged when not in reverse.. If so it also missing.
Thanks All for your Input!!

Ok...obviously your case is a little different than mine (97 XLT SP). But there has to be some plug or bolt on the cover somewhere for you to add the oil. On other sleds I've seen w/out dipsticks, there is a filler hole near the top of the case to add oil, then down near the bottom quarter there is a small bolt in the face of the cover that you take out. You then add oil to the filler hole untill oil comes out of the bottom hole I just described. Your about right on your assumption of the oil level, it should only come up part way on the bottom gear.

On mine the two small pinion gears (between the top and bottom gears) that are associated w/the rev, don't have a spring between them. There is however a washer on the outside of the outer most gear between it and the cover.

The spring hotrod was talking about is found on the bottom gear. Mine has the large bottom gear next to the case (w/the larger teeth) then another large gear on the outside of it w/smaller teeth. This is is associated w/the rev and is what the pinion gears engage when you put it into rev. The bolt that hold this gear (and the other large gear) on is where the spring is found.

There is a thick cylindrical type spacer the bolt goes into, and the spring is found between it and the large gear w/the small teeth. When you pull up on the reverse lever, it forces the yoke on the inside of the cover down which pulls out on the groove on that thick spacer and egages the rev. This spring provides resistance and helps to disengage the rev when you want to go back into forward. Sorry for the length of this, but I hope it helps.



1997 XLT SP 600

That would DEFINATELY be a good idea! Maybe ask a dealer exacly how much oil goes in that sled?



1997 XLT SP 600