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Discussion Starter #1
1992 Polaris Indy 500 SKS, Water cooled, EFI

Symptoms: Turn key to reset/start position. It seems to power up fine. Fuel pump comes on and green “ready” light comes on. Pull recoil starter and engine starts and runs smoothly for up to 5 minutes (shorter period if engine is already warm). Then the green ready light goes out and the engine stops abruptly. The green ready light stays on for the 5 minutes. The ECU does not display any codes.

What I have done: Cleaned fuel tank. Replaced fuel transport components from tank screen to inlet of fuel pump. Tested fuel pressure (ok). Tested kill button and switch. Replaced switch. Battery volts are good. Substituted each relay (fuel pump and self shut off) with a new one. Replaced ECU with one that is known to be good with no change in symptom. Fuse links have continuity. Resistance through exciter coil tested within limits. I bought this machine two months ago and this problem was evident since I brought it home. I would appreciate any thoughts the forum may have.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update to above. Replaced CDI unit to no avail. Might it not be a coincidence that the duration of time the engine runs is the same duration of the delay for the self shut off circuit?
 

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It sounds like you need Mr. Holmquist.
 

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Lake,

The self shut off relay provides power to the ECU. The ready light should be on when the sled is running. If it goes out the self shut off relay is not functioning. You can try to jump it out the relay by connecting the red with a yellow wire to the red and blue wire.

Good luck and post back the results.
JJ
 

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Discussion Starter #5
JJ: Thank you for your response. I think you’ve got me looking at the right system.
Observations:
I have the same 4 wires at the relay (as described by mrholmquist 4-18-2013 post) but I think in a different configuration. On mine one of the R/Y wires and the R/BLU wire is on the control circuit and the other R/Y wire and the GN/W wire is on the load circuit. To take the relay out I assume I should be closing the load circuit with my jumper. i.e. R/Y to GN/W. Can I hurt anything jumping the wrong circuit?
Another disturbing observation is that I have 3 extra wires in the small plug to my ECU. These positions are filled on ’93,’94,& ’95 diagrams but are different colors on those years than what I find on mine. Position 122 BK, position 125 BK, position 126 R/BLU.
A third observation may be telling. My ECU box has hangers for relays. My ’92 relays are mounted in front of foot rest area. My ECU is a later model?
 

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Lake,

The parts list number for a 1992 ECU was 3084365 the is subbed by 2410030 for 93 -95 so I believe the ECU was the same but the chip was different. If you open it up there will be a number on the chip and we can cross reference it. Someone may have switch it out something.

Attached is the wiring diagram for each year. The colors match for a 92 sled you may be off a row on the plug.

The R/Y comes out of the fusible link and provides power to the R/Blu wire when the Gn/W tells it to pull in the contacts. I do not know for sure if you jump the wires wrong but I would think it would not be good because you would be sending voltage back into the ECU with the Gn/W wire.

To bypass the SSO you jump the R/BLU wire to either R/Y. The ready light should come on and sled should run.

If the relay is bad it can be replaced by Airtex Access Relay 1R1227.

Good luck, Post back what you find out.

JJ
 

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I have a 93 indy 500 efi got it home fuel was bad replaced in put a new battery in and it ran. next week snow hit I tested battery had 12.37V rode for 1.5 miles then engine bogged and slowly died restarted key and fuel pump primed and rode back home and died in drive way any tips or pointers never had an efi sled help please!!
 

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Sledhead, A Moderator may want to move to new thread



Need more info. Recap your info. When you pull the starting cord can you hear the fuel pump prime the system? After it started you went for ride, it died you restarted the sled and drove home and died again when you got there. So equal distance(out died, back died) If this sounds correct then self shutoff relay sound like it is bad. Attached is the wiring diagram and how to test the relays.
If the relay is bad it can be replaced by Airtex Access Relay 1R1227.

Good luck and post back results.

JJ
 

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when I turn the key I can hear the system prime I never listened when I pulled the cord because it starts first pull every time. and yes it stays running for the same time/ distance every time then I can turn the key agin and restart. can u give me a hint where the relay box is on it? also noticed an orange wire with black tracers on it disconnected by the harness going to the key switch don't know if that has any thing to do with my issues.
 

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Sledhead,

Are there relays on the ECU? They would be black. Or are they on the right foot well and blue? Do you have electric start? Is there a green ready light on the dash that comes on when you turn the key to a start position?

JJ
 

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from my memory I did not see any relays on or next to the ecu box so they must be on the right foot well ill have to double check that tomarrow when I turn the key I get a red fuel light while the fuel pimp purges and goes off as dose the pump previous owner said it had electric start im guessing the hole with nothing in it to the left of the key is where the start button was. might have to get you more info
 

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Discussion Starter #12
JJ, thank you for the more legible copy of wiring diagrams than what I had.
I too have been away from snow machines for many years. The last one owned was a ’68 Mustang with a 20 HP wankel.
As you suggested jumping R/Y to R/BLU keeps ECU powered and allows engine to run beyond the 5 minutes. I assume the delay circuit somehow activates when the machine is started. When it times out the ECU turns the control circuit for the relay off and the engine dies.
The ECU’s confusion may stem from the ROM chip which has a sticker on it reading, ‘non-ethanol, 1995 500 v.1, 4040051’. The only other identifier is the manufacturers tag on the bottom which has a large ‘20’, then 159 75001 30, and A11-000 R 58.
Is there supposed to be another source of power to the ECU besides through the Self Shut Off time delay relay? There is power available in the ignition switch but I don’t know if this can get to an ECU pin that can utilize it.
At this point I’m about ready to put a toggle switch in my jumper and leave it in place. I’ll enable the jumper with a throw of the switch when I need the machine and turn it off when I’m done. I can’t see where this work around is going to hurt anything. I’ll just have to remember to turn it off.
 

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ok I have a better up date my system is a type 2 system relays are next to ecu I put 12v to them they both clicked .10 ohms on the right side I switched them and ran for 5 min then died pulled the cord and did not hear the fuel pump cycle. I do not have a ready light at all when I turn the key the temp light lights up till the fuel pump is done purging. any suggestions should I jump the relays or buy new ones the fuseable link has been taken out and hard wired any suggestions? battery at 12.3 volts still
 

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Lake,

You had a wankel! Seen some at the shop but never owned one. That was quite the motor.

Back to your issue. You have a 95 chip but everything else in the ECU is the same so you WILL be ok. All the ECU's were the same just the chip was changed.

If you bypass your relay and it runs then the relay is bad. You can install one of these. They can be sourced at any auto parts store for about $14.00 or so. Airtex Access Relay 1R1227
You would not have to do anything else. They plug right in but you would have to find a way to mount it.

Good Luck and post back.
JJ
 

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sledhead

There were not fusible links on the 93 it was a self resetting circuit breaker. Everything seems to be working fine but your relays.
They can be sourced at any auto parts store for about $14.00 or so. Airtex Access Relay 1R1227
You would not have to do anything else. They plug right in but you would have to find a way to mount it.

Good Luck and post back your results.
JJ



 

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ok ill pop 2 of them in there cheep I work at a car dealership so I might b able to get some from parts thanks ill post back when I get it on thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sledhead

The O/BK wire runs from Acs ECU. Get it connected. I believe it powers the ECU when the Self Shut Off circuit isn't. Self Shut Off circuit times out within 5 minutes. Let us know if that takes care of it.
 

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popped 2 new relays in and still died in 5 min ill have to get that o/ bk wire connected I can find the one end but not the other ill have to search around for it. ill have to cut open some harnesses to find it the one end from the asc looks like its sticking out but cant find the other end ill search and find that basterd Thanks for all the help lake and jj
 

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OK,

Sledhead,

If the fuel pump cycles when you pull the starting cord the ACS is ok. The ACS wakes up the ECU when it senses that the crank is rotating and sends power to the fuel pump. Unplug both the big and small connectors and reconnect them. Then pull the starting cord. If the fuel pump cycles the ACS is ok.

I will try to take some photos tomorrow of each component.

Post back what you find.
JJ
 

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Sledhead and Lake,

Here are some photos of the ACS and what wire to test. The red wire should have 12+ volts equal to the battery, The orange wire should have 12+ volts equal to the battery when the starting cord is pulled or the motor is running. I also took a picture of the white connector that was corroded. I had thought the ACS failed but once I stated trouble shooting I found this connector bad.
I cut it out and installed marine/auto duetsch connector. I should have just used butt connectors would have been a lot easier.

Good luck and post back what you find
JJ
 

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