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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I just got a 92 Indy 500 SKS and I just put a new battery in it and nothing seems to happen. It looks like I got all the wires hooked up right (3 red wires going to the positive terminal and 1 black wire from the engine going to the negative terminal). I checked all my wires leading to the ignition and everything looks to be good i'm wondering if anyone knows what the problem could be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I was using a test light to figure out where i was losing my power and when i pressed it onto one of the relays the fuel pump started working (even with the key off) but as soon as I took it off it quit working. Anyone knows wat this means? As well there is a wire with a connecter on it not going anywhere but when I put the test light on it and turn the key all the way over to the start position it turned on then went off as soon as I turned it back on to the on position. Should this be connected to the starter then?
 

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That's the wire that activates the solenoid. The positive battery cable should go from the battery to the starter solenoid, and another heavy gauge cable/wire should go from the solenoid to the starter. The wire you're testing should connect to a small post on the solenoid.
 

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Is this sled a EFI,if so you have 2 little black circuit box's,one is for fuel pump relay, and other is for self shut off relay. I had to replace both on my sled's, when you pull on recoil you will hear buzzing sound, check and let me know.
 

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Scratt said:
So now i got power to my starter and all my lights but my fuel pump doesn't run so my ready light doesn't come on. Would this have something to do with the chip in the ECU?
Power to all your lights? Are you saying that the lights are running off the battery? That shouldn't happen. The lights shouldn't come on unless the motor is running. The rectifier should keep the battery from powering the lights, hand warmers, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is an EFI and when I pull on recoil I hear nothing.

Also I checked my book an there was an extra wire running to the ignition switch so when I took that off the lights weren't running. And I also made a mistake it's does not have an electric starter on it. What is the point of having the ignition switch then if there is no electric start and nothing runs when I turn the key to just on?
 

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The point of having an ignition switch, is so that the sled requires a key to start, and can't just be swiped by anyone passing by.

Sounds like the wiring on your sled has been messed with and you need to find a schematic and see what isn't right. Did the seller start the sled when you bought it?

Normally I'd tell you to go to this thread: http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic/102341/display.aspx?post=1086806 and download the polaris 96-98 service manual but I'm not sure that will help you. You can try it, find a 95 EFI schematic, and compare it to yours, it may or may not be the same since the chassis changed in 94 or 95.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have the Clymers manual for 90-95 polaris and that seems to help lots. I do have a brown wire which comes off the battery regulator that goes to no where. It looks like it has been ripped out of where ever it was before. Would this cause the fuel pump to not run? There is another brown wire leading to the stator but i can't find where this one goes.

The guy I got the sled from just had the problem of no spark so I bought a new cdi and I have good spark now and I even poured some mix gas down the spark plugs and the snowmobile started right up. The only problem I seem to be having now is just the fuel pump not running. As far as i'm concerned the sled has been sitting for a few years as well.
 

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If it's an original wire, a brown wire is ground. There is no "battery regulator". The voltage regulator has a yellow wire and a brown wire (ground) connected to it. The battery should not be connected to the yellow wire on the regulator, I'm pretty sure that would cause your lights to draw off the battery. The battery connects to a rectifier, and there might be a circuit breaker, but since you don't have electric start I'm not sure on the circuit breaker. One side of the rectifier should connect to the charging circuit at the main harness (yellow wire) and the other side connects to the battery.

I'm pretty sure that nothing should happen when you turn the key on, no lights, no fuel pump. I believe the fuel pump should not come on until you pull the starter rope. All the key does is ground the ignition circuit to kill the motor and keep it from starting when the key is off.
 

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on a 92 the key actually tells the ecu to come alive and the pump should build the pressure it needs , which in turn will turn the light on the dash panel , then you should be able to give it 1 pull to start.
I have a 93 but its different you pull the rope and it tells the system to come alive with the rectifier/ACS, second pull it starts.

Thats my 2 cents!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well off of my battery I got 3 red wires, one is going to the regulator where 3 wires go into the stator and then my other 2 red wires goes to the relay's where the one red wire also branches off to my ignition. The regulator is mounted on the bottom of my battery box. I never seen the circuit breaker either and when I pull the rope nothing happens so I am just wondering if the brown wire (which I checked is ground) is causing my fuel pump to not ground out because when I use the test light onto the purple wire on the fuel pump relay, it makes my fuel pump run which makes me think that with the test light its making a full curcuit to run the fuel pump.

kingofit said:
on a 92 the key actually tells the ecu to come alive and the pump should build the pressure it needs , which in turn will turn the light on the dash panel , then you should be able to give it 1 pull to start.
I have a 93 but its different you pull the rope and it tells the system to come alive with the rectifier/ACS, second pull it starts.

Thats my 2 cents!
In my book I read that as well that the pump should run for 5 seconds to gain the pressure so thats what confuses me.
 

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Scratt said:
Well off of my battery I got 3 red wires, one is going to the regulator where 3 wires go into the stator and then my other 2 red wires goes to the relay's where the one red wire also branches off to my ignition. The regulator is mounted on the bottom of my battery box. I never seen the circuit breaker either and when I pull the rope nothing happens so I am just wondering if the brown wire (which I checked is ground) is causing my fuel pump to not ground out because when I use the test light onto the purple wire on the fuel pump relay, it makes my fuel pump run which makes me think that with the test light its making a full curcuit to run the fuel pump.

kingofit said:
on a 92 the key actually tells the ecu to come alive and the pump should build the pressure it needs , which in turn will turn the light on the dash panel , then you should be able to give it 1 pull to start.
I have a 93 but its different you pull the rope and it tells the system to come alive with the rectifier/ACS, second pull it starts.

Thats my 2 cents!
In my book I read that as well that the pump should run for 5 seconds to gain the pressure so thats what confuses me.
Ah yes 92 500 ..... There should be 4 wires to the ignition switch. Two of them the black and the brown are for the ignition system adn we are not concerned about them in this case. The other two wires sheould be red with a green stripe and also a red with a white stripe. The red with a green stripe is fed from the battery + terminal through the green fusible link and therefore should be hot at all times when you check it with your test light. If there is no power check the fuse link first because corrosion is common here. The red/w wire at the ignition switch should be hot when you twist the key all the way over to what would be the start position if the sled had electric start. when you release the key it will spring back to the run position. This red/w wire feeds terminals 11 and 15 at the ECU and by momentarily connecting it to battery through the ignition switch it should cause the ECU to power up. An indicator the ECU is "powered up" and not sleeping is that the ready light should come on. If you have power at the red/w when you twist the key all the way but not at the two terminals of the ECU I mentioned then follow the harness as there must be a break. The red/w connects to the orange (term #11) and the yelllow/blk (term #15) .
 

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If you cannot find a replacement chip, I can copy the chip you have onto a new chip.
 

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I have a extra EFI box off a 94 indy 500 EFI,but that sled had the same problem of the fuel pump not working. Im pretty sure the fuel pump just needed to be replaced though. So if you wanted to try mine you could.

I switched the sled over to carbs instead like you just mentioned above. You can use your EFI engine you have now,you just need to drill a hole in the crankcase for the fuel pump pulse line,the hole is already there for it you just need to finish drilling it through. Then get different carb boots, and then install the mechanical fuel pump,carbs,throttle and choke cables.

The carb and EFI boots are a different bolt pattern,you need to use the boots from a 91-92 carbed indy 650 which is a discontinued part and very hard to find. You can also use a carb boot from a 80s yamaha, part # 8G8-13555-01-00. You can type it in and order it here http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fiche_select.asp

I think the sled ran stronger with carbs then it did with the EFI,alot more responsive anyways.
 
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