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http://www.mrfunnel.com/Mr._Funnel/Home.html

Works great for taking out water and dirt out when your filling up.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
baldur said:
gndan said:
You had mentioned a while back that you were going to do some testing with MAF. Do you have any data you could share? I am doing some ECM testing on the simulator at different air flows and I am curious to what you are seeing for pulse widths with your 590cc injectors. I would like to try and correlate it with mine at a couple different points to check and see if my MAF fueling calculations are even close.

Thanks, Dan
I can dig up the log when I get home, it's on my other laptop. I do remember that at 10psi, 8600rpm, I was seeing 4.16V on this 1994 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 MAF. If the transfer functions found at http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/253809-4-6l-maf-into-5-0-a.html are anything close to reality, that's 21lbs/min of air.
I have got my hands on some stronger cylinder and head bolts, 12.9 grade (176900psi min tensile strength). This, along with the copper head gaskets being cut on the waterjet, hopefully ends the gasket problems.
Log file: http://www.foo.is/~baldur/12081200-Kab%famm.txt
 

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Discussion Starter #123
As it turned out, the fuel I had in my tank was just old and stale. Topping it up with fresh fuel wasn't enough.
My attempt to solve the gasket issues started with making stronger cylinder and head studs to stop them from stretching. A problem I had this summer was that after just a little bit of running the small head studs would come loose, despite receiving the full amount of torque earlier. Evidently the studs must have been stretching or the gaskets collapsing, probably both.
My solution, 12.9 grade studs, 178000psi tensile strength.

Since I had run out of cometics, I decided to make my own gaskets and an aluminium top end support plate. Yes the gaskets pictured don't have the water ports cut out yet.

To be sure the combustion gases stay inside the cylinder, I machined the heads for stainless O rings to support the gaskets.
 

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Bugger, ive been considerin buying lathe for ages and ages, I think it´ll be about time to buy one during this year. Might help fair bit on my project, have planned million little and bigger mods to it. Not a bit done yet, the frame isnt even inside yet lol. I did buy 09-model IQ skidframesuspension to it tho.

Meanwhile building switchback 800 -04 which has got snapped ves..quite abnormal the vlave snapped at idle so i´m getting away fairly easy.

What sort of opinion you guys have on wisecos in the 650-engine? it seems some like wisecos (generally speaking) and some dont. Just seems there arent so many options left for those engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
RRR said:
Bugger, ive been considerin buying lathe for ages and ages, I think it´ll be about time to buy one during this year. Might help fair bit on my project, have planned million little and bigger mods to it. Not a bit done yet, the frame isnt even inside yet lol. I did buy 09-model IQ skidframesuspension to it tho.

Meanwhile building switchback 800 -04 which has got snapped ves..quite abnormal the vlave snapped at idle so i´m getting away fairly easy.

What sort of opinion you guys have on wisecos in the 650-engine? it seems some like wisecos (generally speaking) and some dont. Just seems there arent so many options left for those engines.
They're definitely not the most dimensionally stable piston I have encountered, they always seem to deform quite a bit in the middle around the wristpin after a few heat cycles, even without showing any signs of elevated crown temperature.
 

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baldur said:
RRR said:
Bugger, ive been considerin buying lathe for ages and ages, I think it´ll be about time to buy one during this year. Might help fair bit on my project, have planned million little and bigger mods to it. Not a bit done yet, the frame isnt even inside yet lol. I did buy 09-model IQ skidframesuspension to it tho.

Meanwhile building switchback 800 -04 which has got snapped ves..quite abnormal the vlave snapped at idle so i´m getting away fairly easy.

What sort of opinion you guys have on wisecos in the 650-engine? it seems some like wisecos (generally speaking) and some dont. Just seems there arent so many options left for those engines.
They're definitely not the most dimensionally stable piston I have encountered, they always seem to deform quite a bit in the middle around the wristpin after a few heat cycles, even without showing any signs of elevated crown temperature.
What would you prefer on std engine? I was not going to tune it by any way, just full rebuild with very likely overbore.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
I think standard pistons will generally give you a better ring seal than the forged counterparts.
 

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Nice workmanship and fabrication!
What did u do to the bottom end?
 

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Discussion Starter #130
Bottom end is all stock with Wiseco 1.50mm oversize pistons. This time around I have replaced the cylinder studs and head studs, O ringed the heads and fabricated copper head gaskets. There's also a girdle plate in place now to help support the crankcase.
 

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Hope the bottom end holds up, I've heard that the crank should be welded if you turbo an older 2 stroke... Heard that from Jim Czekala from C&H
 

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Discussion Starter #132
I did consider welding the crank the last time I had the bottom end apart but I decided I'd rather wait for it to go wrong before I start doing that. Crank work is a big enough pain in the arse even without welding.
I seem to remember Jim Czekala (or maybe it was Kevin Cameron) writing in one of the Dynotech documents how turbo engines seem much easier on cranks than nitrous engines making the same amount of power because while both have the same mean pressure over the few degrees of crankshaft rotation from top dead center until the exhaust port opens, one appears to have a lower peak pressure than the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Took this one out today, it still has some gremlins, took out a piston and a spark plug 40 seconds into the video, running 15psi boost. Track was skipping under power. Datalogger refused to record (fucking Innovate!). As you can notice the response is piss poor when it has lost ring seal on one cylinder but most of the top end power remains.
No big deal, I have more pistons. It managed to keep the coolant contained where it belongs, that's the good news! Now it just needs a couple degrees less timing at 15psi boost and a little bit more fuel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ui1wWHdpO7s
 

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Looks like you are still hard at it! Are you assuming that to advanced of timing is causing your detonation damage? What are you running for peak timing at that amount of boost?

Also what is your timing during "Cranking/start up"? I got mine out for a short ditch ride (Only 7 Miles) here since there have been poor conditions this year in Central,IL.... I am on 6# boost and am running right around 15° timing under power (91 Octane No intercooler). I need to get my clutching figured out as I am seeing around 8800RPM under boost, but the sled feels pretty strong and has been cold starting and running great. I just have a hard time hot starting but I think my timing was too advanced at 16° during "Cranking" which causes a hard start when warm. Other than that I am seeing IATs in the 90° mark under longer boost pulls in 30° ambient air, and EGTs in the 1300° mark. Also the MAF and the LS1 coils have been functioning flawless so far and using ACCEL ENRICH I don't have any throttle tip in stumble.

,Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #136
gndan said:
Looks like you are still hard at it! Are you assuming that to advanced of timing is causing your detonation damage? What are you running for peak timing at that amount of boost?

Also what is your timing during "Cranking/start up"? I got mine out for a short ditch ride (Only 7 Miles) here since there have been poor conditions this year in Central,IL.... I am on 6# boost and am running right around 15° timing under power (91 Octane No intercooler). I need to get my clutching figured out as I am seeing around 8800RPM under boost, but the sled feels pretty strong and has been cold starting and running great. I just have a hard time hot starting but I think my timing was too advanced at 16° during "Cranking" which causes a hard start when warm. Other than that I am seeing IATs in the 90° mark under longer boost pulls in 30° ambient air, and EGTs in the 1300° mark. Also the MAF and the LS1 coils have been functioning flawless so far and using ACCEL ENRICH I don't have any throttle tip in stumble.

,Dan
I goofed up when installing the MSD which got my timing advanced by 10 degrees but that has been resolved I am currently running 17 degrees BTDC from 8000 and up at 15psi boost. 20 degrees at atmo pressure. I am assuming it likes a little more fuel and a maybe little less timing to run perfect. 2 strokes are very sensitive to spark timing, combustion is very fast and exhaust temperature has peculiar effects on air flow, an excellent example of that was published in Dynotech recently.
My cranking timing is probably something like 1° BTDC, I'm using the trailing edge of the trigger tooth to fire the spark during cranking. I have also had some trouble with hot starts sometimes but that was a fuel mapping issue and not a spark issue. I could always get it started by spraying brake cleaner into the air box.
I had the motor running safe but slow, then I started leaning it out and kept finding more power until it detonated. I currently have 10-64 weights in the front clutch, EPI grey spring, rear is R11 helix and Polaris silver/blue spring. I'm seeing 9200rpms at full throttle. Sometimes hitting the 9500rpm rev limiter if traction is limited. The longer spring really helps it out of the hole with those heavy cams, but doesn't affect the rpm under acceleration much if at all, it's a pretty low spring rate.
There's no snow anywhere close to home now so I haven't ridden it recently.
What components do you have in your clutches now?
 

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hey i have a 1992 rxl 650 , it was running perfect until i had shut it down for about 10-15 minutes then went to fire it back up and it threw a code (21) fly wheel side injector , i had taken the fly wheel injector out and switched it with the centre injector and the fly wheel side still would not fire with the good injector from the centre( shouldnt the code have changed if it was the injector ?) , i have 130 psi in all three cylinders , i took a multimeter and checked that all three injectors are getting 12.0 volts but the fly wheel injector is reading 12.4 volts , all three injectors are reading .4 ohms of resistance , after i switched the injectors its still only running on the pto cylinder and centre cylinder , i only run 94 octane fuel in it and never had a problem until now please help.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
hey i have a 1992 rxl 650 , it was running perfect until i had shut it down for about 10-15 minutes then went to fire it back up and it threw a code (21) fly wheel side injector , i had taken the fly wheel injector out and switched it with the centre injector and the fly wheel side still would not fire with the good injector from the centre( shouldnt the code have changed if it was the injector ?) , i have 130 psi in all three cylinders , i took a multimeter and checked that all three injectors are getting 12.0 volts but the fly wheel injector is reading 12.4 volts , all three injectors are reading .4 ohms of resistance , after i switched the injectors its still only running on the pto cylinder and centre cylinder , i only run 94 octane fuel in it and never had a problem until now please help.
I reckon check your wiring, trace the mag side injector wire back to the ECU. If the wiring turns out okay you probably have a broken ECU. What you can always do though is join the mag side injector low side wire at the ECU with the low side wire for the center or pto injector, they all fire simultaneously anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Also, back on topic, I've moved into a new garage and I finally figured out why the sled was so hard to launch at the drags, the secondary clutch was releasing too fast. Installed a Polaris blue/orange secondary spring preloaded two thirds of a rotation in #4 hole, now it just jumps out of the hole when I get off the launch control, amazing. I leased the dyno to a local company doing some fuel research so it'll be a few months before I get the chance to dyno tune the sled. I bought a drum of Renegade 120 octane fuel for the season since my supply of Sunoco dried up last year.
 
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