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Discussion Starter #1
Hey.
I just bought a 95 XCR 600 triple. When I go to start it, it usually will fire right up on the first or second pull. After about 1-2 seconds of idling, it stalls out, and floods. Pull the plugs, they're wet, dry them off or change plugs and she's a real b**ch to get going again. Any ideas?

I put new plugs, new fuel, syncd the carbs.

Thanks.
 

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Do you know what carb specs you are running? Most importantly the pilot jet?
 

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You have a piston port triple flooding it's self out when it runs.
Clearly a carb problem.

Take them off, remove main jets, pilots, and needles.
Cleen these with carb cleaner or replace them.
Remove the needles and seats and replace them.

Take the disassembled carbs and clean them or have them dunked in a carb cleaner and blown out.
You will probably have to replace the float bowl gaskets in the process.
All in all, it is going to probably cost you less that a fifty spot up to here and your motor will thank you for it.

Had the previous owner done his pre and post season maintenence, you would probably not be having these issues, so you had better go the rest of the way with the pre-season work and change your chaincase oil, greese everything up, check your track allignment, You already changed out the bad gas. Look at how much brake pad you have left and replace if needed.
Check ski allignment, condition of your belt, and clutch allignment/condition, and this should all help to give you a reletively trouble free season of fun.

If you are not comfortable with all of this, most shops have a pre-season maintenence service in the $150 - $250 range depending on what parts you need and all.
 

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^^^^^^^ Student Driver hit the nail on the head. Id be willing to bet my lunch that after you do all that youll have a great running sled. Check the bearings in the wheels also since they are pretty cheap to replace. Do a quick search here for Carb cleaning as there are a couple nice writeups with pics included.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. I was kind of thinking needles and seats and a good cleaning. I was dumb and took the guys word for it that he had cleaned the carbs last season. Anything else I should look for while I have it apart?
 

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Originally posted by elan man
[br]Thanks guys. I was kind of thinking needles and seats and a good cleaning. I was dumb and took the guys word for it that he had cleaned the carbs last season. Anything else I should look for while I have it apart?
I'm sort of doubting the needles and seats are bad, simply because typically they cause the sled to start extremely hard. But it could be a contributing factor I guess.
 

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also could have gum in the fuel pump ,on extreme case have put small inline filters to each carb ,nothing like cleaning your'e carbs after riding for 5 minutes ,get pulled back home ,only to pull carbs,and find them full of what i call floaties
 

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Do a compression check too.
Maybe do that 1st just to make sure.

All 3 holes should be fairly even and some where in the 115 to 135 pound range I'd imagine.
Probaby 90 at the out side lowest and I remember my Ultra was in the 145 pound range.
The most important part here is to be even in all 3 holes.

Make sure that you are gas fouled and not oil fouled.
If it's oil, look at the setting on your oil pump.
The allignment marks should be not quite lined up when sitting idle.
But then when you just take the free-play out of the line and don't move the carbs yet, the allignment marks will be perfectly lined up.
It is possible that way too much oil could be the problem.

And if this is the problem, look at your jetting to make sure that they didn't try to go lean around it.
I've seen people do some pretty weird stuff.
 

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Compression check sounds about perfect.

What all jets are in it?
If you are too rich, starting will be reletively easy as a choke makes you rich,
but then when you warm up, you foul out the same as if you left the choke on. Just a thought.

You are shutting the choke off too? aren't you?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, it's about -2 Celcius here right now, so i'm using 1/2 choke when I start. After 2-3 seconds of idling it floods out, I don't even get a chance to shut the choke off.

Could I be starting it incorrectly?

One other little tidbit, Before I synched the carbs, I fired it up, and had a backfire. It hasn't backfired since though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll do that tonight.

This is in regards to my other post about plugs.

I researched and the machine calls for BR9ES's, and there were BR8ES's in the machine. Last night I went out and bought 2 sets of BR9ES's as per spec. I'm hoping that this helps.
 

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Originally posted by elan man
[br]I'll do that tonight.

This is in regards to my other post about plugs.

I researched and the machine calls for BR9ES's, and there were BR8ES's in the machine. Last night I went out and bought 2 sets of BR9ES's as per spec. I'm hoping that this helps.
This will make you burn even richer.
They probably ran the hotter plug to burn around the actual issue that you are now dealing with.
Put the right plugs in.

Look at your floats.
It still sounds like bad maintenence to me and in going through it all, you will find the problem.
Put it all to spec and cleaned out properly and it should be fine.
 

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you can also run champion N2C's i run the NGK BR9ES and the champion N2C
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cleaned the carbs out again, adjusted the choke, and it's fixed and purring like a kitten now!

Thanks again guys!
 

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I know you have it running good now so nice job, but thought I would add a few things.

XLT's don't like the choke. I turn mine off almost immediately. If you ever get flooded real bad again there are some 10 mm bolts under the pipes that you can take out to drain the crankcase.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Your 100% correct with the choke. I this that was a huge factor to my problem. I don't even touch the choke and it fires great. Just put on 200 miles yesterday and it ran like a top. So thanks again to everyone.
 
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