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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi sledders. i am new to the site, this is my 1st post. i like this site because a lot of you guys rider "older" sleds like me. on some sites (like snowest)its not cool to ride an "old" 1998 machine, nobody messes with those old sleds anymore.

anyway, been riding for 20 years off and on, grew up in the "yoop" of michigan (rudyard, houghton). mostly been riding old crappy sleds my whole life. finally stepped up and got a 98 rmk 700 (for $900) it is stock except for simmons skiis and vforce reeds. i have twin pipes for it but probably wont install them yet. im looking for a high comp head (9000-12000 elev) and 151x15x2 track also. if i find the 151 i will have a 136 for sale.

1) the first thing i usually do on all my sleds is remove the oiler, but i noticed on the rmk that the oiler also oils the crank directly on both ends. is it a bad idea to remove the oiler?

2) i want to remove the airbox and put on individual foam filters (like k&n). is anybody doing this??

3) i installed a 2" h-bar riser and its not nearly enough. i think a 6" riser will fit by rerouting the cables. will a 6" riser over-stress the steering rod? any suggestions where to get a 6" riser.


thanks,
mark

90 enticer 400 l/t
95 skandic mountain special
90's 540 xlv
01 skandic swt
98 rmk 700
 

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You'll probably get good advise on snowest too. I've been debating the 136 vs. 144 thing for 2 years and spent about 4 hours on snowest Monday night. You'd be surprised how many people kept their 98' XC's and RMK's and/or miss them/standardize all their new machine purchases to them. The 98' 700 big block engine is just an amazing beast. Go to your Polaris dealer and order in the volume III service manual, that has everything you would ever want to know and it's all factory specs/knowledge, but be warned it's pricey. I wouldn't remove you're oiler unless you plan on building a race engine, as it is the PTO bearing has issues on high mileage motors. Just make sure it's tuned and in proper working order. If you do the K&N snowcharger install make sure you support them with some sort of bracket as the carb boots are known to develop cracks with the addition of a boost bottle alone. Also I'm pretty sure you'll have to change you're jetting as I believe, and don't quote me on this, that they're slightly more restrictive than the stock airbox, especially with the prechargers installed. The 98's are good sleds and setup well from the factory so no need for major changes. With that big of a riser you may want to upgrade the steering column upper bushing to one of these: http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=25&productID=60 . As far as a higher compression head, there are several manufactures that make them, choose the one that best fits you're application. You can get them that have the sleeper look that retains the stock Polaris 700 placard or one thats all billet with the company logo cnc'ed in. Enjoy the new toy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the info, storm chaser, especially the link for the steering bushing, the stock bushing looks weak. i'm probably going to go with the powermadd riser. i'll probably get the manual too, as i will be doing all my own wrenching. theres some good info in the how to section of this site as well, so i wont have to bother you guys with stupid questions about how to rebuild the clutch, etc. i'll need help with the 151 though, like what the heck is a "drop and roll?"
 

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Originally posted by wackie
[br]thanks for the info, storm chaser, especially the link for the steering bushing, the stock bushing looks weak. i'm probably going to go with the powermadd riser. i'll probably get the manual too, as i will be doing all my own wrenching. theres some good info in the how to section of this site as well, so i wont have to bother you guys with stupid questions about how to rebuild the clutch, etc. i'll need help with the 151 though, like what the heck is a "drop and roll?"
A drop and roll is when you lower and move the track drive shaft down and back to increase you're angle of attack. It also increases you're driver to tunnel clearance so you can run a larger lugged track. These links should help ya out:
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15759&SearchTerms=drop,and
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40712&SearchTerms=drop,and
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=51869&SearchTerms=drop,and
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=33007&SearchTerms=drop,and
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well that kind of sounds like a p.i.t.a, and expensive too. can i do a 151x2" without a drop and roll? ( i dont know much about it yet, but i'm learning) the machine will be mostly for powder, hillclimbing, and playing.
 

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Originally posted by wackie
[br]well that kind of sounds like a p.i.t.a, and expensive too. can i do a 151x2" without a drop and roll? ( i dont know much about it yet, but i'm learning) the machine will be mostly for powder, hillclimbing, and playing.
I'm not too familiar with the lug clearance but here is a little blerb from SLP's track extension page: "Stock 9 tooth track drive sprockets can be used with 1 3/4" notched track, but 8 tooth drive sprockets must be used to allow for clearance on 2" notched tracks unless RMK tunnel coolers are used. For 1998 models#2670168-067 bumper must be used (Not included)."
Sourced from:
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=46&productID=106
I know pro-x_racer2002 is/was running a 136x2 on his XC 600 thats dropped bracketed in the rear, not sure if he still has it though. Maybe someone else with more experience can chime in and help ya out. How do you like CO? Good riding? I'm entertaining the idea of moving but finding a job in/around the rockies might prove to be a challenge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
im going to buy the 151x2 and hope it fits, worry about it later if it dont.

yeah, colo is great, but its a bit of a culture shock getting used to the cost of living, especially coming from the yoop. been here over 10 years already, still poor and lovin it. the ridin is great except for the greenie weenies that want to shut us down, they are going to close off some more of the best local riding area so cross country skiers can have a better "experience" without the annoyance of snowmobiles. theres plenty of work especially if you work in anything to do with development (ie building houses, etc.) you can definately get work in denver but thats not exactly ideal snowmobiling, big hassle getting into and out of the mountains. if your serious about it,just move out and worry about a job once u get here. grand junction is pretty close to alot of good riding (and sweet dirtbiking) and still relatively *******. durango is a tree lovers paradise now and expensive as [email protected]#. i just visited the black hills recently and ne wyoming, thats real nice country too.
 
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