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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am finally getting some time to go thru my XLT limited this summer. I basically parked it when the snow melted and never got the chance to touch it till now! this weekend I installed a new Camoplast 1" lugged with studs track, and Fox shocks which when surprisingly well no issues their. changed gear oil. and now will be onto cleaning out the carbs and painting some front suspension parts.
last winter my choke was sticking so hopefully that will be a easy fix, Any ideas or known issues?
my electric start does not work, don't really care but I will pull the starter and see if it can be salvaged.
my one main question is how tight should the track be? and anything I really need to watch for while going thru this sled?
I plan on cleaning and painting the exhaust and any other parts that are showing some rust as well. last year it ran like a champ once you got the choke freed up!!
 

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When you had the rear suspension out, did you go through it? Look at the welds, checking for cracks, check all wheels and bearings. Make sure everything is greased real good and moving properly. When I have to pull mine, I like to pull it apart, clean out all old grease and put fresh in. I also inspect the aluminum shafts and look for wear, cracks, etc..

For the choke, maybe just a little gummed up in there?

Electric start, If it was me, I'd just pull it all out. If the sled is properly tuned, it should start in three pulls or less.

Track tension, I let mine hang approx. 1/2 - 3/4 inch from the rails. Everybody does it differently.
Make sure your drives are centered properly. I've seen nice tracks destroyed because of this.

Another thing for the carbs, make sure you sync them right away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks,
I didn't realize the drives are adjustable? how do you center them?

and on the carbs, I generally just pulled them off and cleaned and re-installed, but never did a triple. what needs to be done to sync them?
I just bought this sled at the end of last season, it ran perfect always started 1 pull. only problem was the choke would stick, and the previous owner got stuck in a creek and destroyed the track, knocked many of the lugs off! and rear shocks were shot.
I did replace a few of the boogie wheels and went through the rear suspension (installed the Fox shocks) this has the Extra 12

as for electric start, I don't need it but for the wife I might see if it's a easy fix. if not I will remove everything, battery, wiring starter etc..
 

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for the electric starter before you start removing things start tracing wires with a volt meter, could be as simple as corroded connection/broken wire. yes electric start isnt needed but for resale it looks good. and since its there might as well make it work.
 

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For centering the shaft, there should be a set screw on the bearing on the speedo cable side. Loosen, and you are able to slide the shaft back and forth. I take measurement between the drive wheels and the tunnel.


To sync:
Leave the key out!! (So somebody doesn't try to start it on you.)
Remove carbs from engine. Pull out slides and inspect the slide and make sure the needle jet isn't damaged or bent.
Insert the roundslides, snug the top retainer that the cable goes to. Do not install them on the motor yet.
Operate throttle to wide open and make sure slides are opening all the way. Just enough that the slide isn't seen in the venturi when looking straight through. (Also make sure the slides move smoothly)
Put a zip-tie on the throttle to hold the slides open approx. 3/8-7/16" (on the engine side).
Using GOOD drill bits, find one that just rubs between the bottom of the venturi and the slide (again on the engine side) (You may have to adjust zip-tie to get a perfect fit)
Adjust the other to match by using the adjuster on the top of the carb.(Make sure you aren't pulling on the cables or it will be off)
Make sure slides open and close all the way again and are still smooth.
Take zip-tie off. - Very important!!!
Mount carbs.
The rest is done on the air box side of the carbs.
Again, using drill bits,
Adjust slides so both are at the same height at idle position. (Adjust using idle speed screws on the side of the carbs.)
You may have to adjust the idle again after you start it. (At idle position, there should be just a very small opening through the carbs. Better to start off low then over-rev and have clutch engage and run through wall.
Your idle mixture screw on the side of the carb---start at 1 1/2 turns out from seated.
If you get a bog when snapping the throttle, start turning in the idle screws 1/8 turn at a time until it clears. If you are under 1 turn out, you need to get a size larger pilot jets. (1/2 turn for flatslides)
As you adjust your idle mixture screws, the rpm's will go up or down. Re-adjust idle speeds.
Adjust to get smooth idle quality.
Make sure when you are adjusting the idle speed, you turn all screws exactly the same or the sync will be off.

Have patience, as it may take a while and you may have to re-do it a couple of times to get it perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks,

i did not remove that bearing when I replaced the track, it didn't want to move and I had enough room to slide it up to get the track in and out. I will take a look at it. can you give any description at to where this set screw is? their are 2 brass looking triangular pieces the bearing sit in. one on the frame side, and one on top the bearing. when you unbolt the speedo cover the top one falls of and you can see the bearing covered in grease, but the bearing is set in the other piece, It looked like that bearing is just sitting on the shaft?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I found a link to adjusting and removeing that bearing. I will check it this weekend.
next step is to go thru the steering, I bent one of the arms last winter so need to go thru the front end and straighten the arm. also want to repaint the spindles since they have some worn paint. and replace a tierod end which is loose.
lastly I will go thru the carbs, give them a cleaning and sync them.
one last question, since this choke is sticking should I clean it or go with a primer instead? I have not even looked yet but do these carbs by chance have a fitting already installed to add primers? I know I have a extra primer laying around someplace in my tool box so I would just need the hose and fittings
 

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Wouldnt get a primer would stick with the choke although when a primer is setup right they work ok but I personally would stick with choke.
 

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jschick said:
I found a link to adjusting and removeing that bearing. I will check it this weekend.
next step is to go thru the steering, I bent one of the arms last winter so need to go thru the front end and straighten the arm. also want to repaint the spindles since they have some worn paint. and replace a tierod end which is loose.
lastly I will go thru the carbs, give them a cleaning and sync them.
one last question, since this choke is sticking should I clean it or go with a primer instead? I have not even looked yet but do these carbs by chance have a fitting already installed to add primers? I know I have a extra primer laying around someplace in my tool box so I would just need the hose and fittings

Those carbs do not have a primer fitting. Just fix what you have and you'll be ahead. Primers are nice, but if you are adapting to something that doesn't have one, it could be a real pain.

If you never unlocked the bearing from the shaft, you should be O.K. But it never hurts to double-check things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well didn't have time to finish this yet, but I did get my front end gone thru, and the rear suspension and track is done, I repainted my exhaust, and all that is left is my Carbs.
I did see they do have the port I could add primers, but after searching the forum, guys seem to like this choke setup and it seems common for them to seize but they should clean up easily, so that is what I will do.

thanks guys!
 
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