Hey fellas I have a pretty good setup now on my '99 xc6 but im looking for other setups to try in comparison. I mostly ride aggressive trail but I love to waste bigger sleds on the flats. I am rather light, so I need a setup that is going to launch me out of the hole and still have good midrange. Not really concerned w/top end but I don't want to lose too much. I don't want a kit, I want to build my own. My current set up is: Secondary EPI red w/60 gram weights. Primary: Orange spring, cut helix. Its a good all around setup with good upshift and backshift but Im wanting more upshift than backshift. What im thinking of now is r12 w/ polaris silver/blue secondary, almond/gold primary with either 60's or 62's.. My motor isn't stock so I know it will pull 62's. With that what do you guys suggest? Thanks
'99 xcsp6 clutch setup
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The clutch on the engine is the primary, the clutch on the jackshaft is secondary.
weights = primary
helix = secondary.
I dunno any setups for an XC 600 though...
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weights = primary
helix = secondary.
I dunno any setups for an XC 600 though...
Please don't post the same topic on multiple boards, that is considered spam.
http://www.bolliger-mabillard.com
I love B&M Coasters!
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8,842 Posts
epi red spring=means nothing what is the preload and the shift out load?
cut helix= what are the angles?
orange secondary=what is the compresion load and the torsion load?
start at the begining.
what is done to the engine and gearing?
personaly i like the polaris blue secondary over the silver blue. it has less side load for a quicker up shift but more twist load for a desent back shift.
if you have to run the silver blue or orange spring you have to much wieght.
for fast trail riding/lake riding you are better to lose a gram but get real aggressive weights. more mass at the tip and less at the pin than stock. i like the stock primary springs. to me it is the last thing that needs to be changed unless you have nothing left.
if it were my sled, and for hard upshift with limited back shift i would go and get thundershift wieghts. in the long run they will save you money. start at 59 grams with an aggresive pattern. stock primary polaris blue secondary and stock helix.
now with adjustable wieghts when you punch the throttle it shouldnt jump to 8200 it should quickly pull to 8200 if it slips out of the hole you need more pin wieght and so on
remember if you have it dialed in on hard pack and go off trail you will be loading to hard on you engine. for hard trail i like to tune one hole higher than perfect on the helix so you have room for temp and conditions.
hope that messed you up real good.lol
nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
cut helix= what are the angles?
orange secondary=what is the compresion load and the torsion load?
start at the begining.
what is done to the engine and gearing?
personaly i like the polaris blue secondary over the silver blue. it has less side load for a quicker up shift but more twist load for a desent back shift.
if you have to run the silver blue or orange spring you have to much wieght.
for fast trail riding/lake riding you are better to lose a gram but get real aggressive weights. more mass at the tip and less at the pin than stock. i like the stock primary springs. to me it is the last thing that needs to be changed unless you have nothing left.
if it were my sled, and for hard upshift with limited back shift i would go and get thundershift wieghts. in the long run they will save you money. start at 59 grams with an aggresive pattern. stock primary polaris blue secondary and stock helix.
now with adjustable wieghts when you punch the throttle it shouldnt jump to 8200 it should quickly pull to 8200 if it slips out of the hole you need more pin wieght and so on
remember if you have it dialed in on hard pack and go off trail you will be loading to hard on you engine. for hard trail i like to tune one hole higher than perfect on the helix so you have room for temp and conditions.
hope that messed you up real good.lol
nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
The motor is stock except for a head mod (cut 40 thous). The gearing is stock at 23/41. You were in question of the preload etc on the EPI springs. Primary Red is 145/300 and the EPI Orange is 49/83. The helix is a R11 (50/34) that was shaved. The maching shop in wisconsin that I bought all the parts listed above didn't have the exact dimensions on the hexlix so I don' t know for sure. The current setup works very well but I want another setup to try. You mentioned the Thundershift weights, I like the ability to add and subtract weight but I don't know if I would need to alter my primary to make sure that the weights have enough clearance. I know with Heelclickers the primary needs to be cut in order for them to work. As a general rule is it better to have less fly weight with softer springs VS. Heavier weights/springs? I was told that more weight the better because it would apply more belt squeeze= Track HP? Is that false? What I wanted to try was a more aggressive helix for better holeshots. (50/36 or a 52/36) with an EPI Silver Primary (165/280) and a EPI Black (56/102) with 58/60/62 gram weights.. I know that the Silver primary spring would raise my engagement by a bit but I don't want to get above the 5000+ rpm. I may come into this problem that would result in needless track spin. What is your take on this?
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8,842 Posts
ok. if everything was the same and you slipped in the epi silver your engagement will go up but you shift rpm will come down. it will pull harder because the second number is smaller
was the helix shaved were the snap ring sits? I do this to my helixes so they start at the tip of the helix.
now if you go from a 50/34 to a 52/34 with every thing else the same you will bring down your rpm
if you went with the silver spring you might have to run a 48/34 helix
there is now deffinent right or wrong. it is the tunners choice. most trail kits you buy will have a fly wieght that is the same or a little lighter in grams but more aggressive they sell you a primary spring that is real close to the stock and a helix with more start angle for a harder off the line pull.
i like to wieght my clutch were i can run the blue or silver polaris secondary spring and then find the right helix to let me get my rpm were it should be.
when i am in that range i have a lot of adjustability if you have to you a huge spring you have lost up shift and are losing power trying to spin the extra wieght. i would stay at the stock wieght and get aggressive. you can take you wieght to your dealer and they can pick out the next level of aggresive. put them in then change your primary to get the engagement rpm you want. now run it check high rpm if you are low get less helix or tighten the spring in the same helix. if you are real low or high than change springs.
for polaris i like polaris springs because you can get a chart from you dealer that show how they compare to each other. dont get big weights because you can say you run 62 and the 800 twin only runs 60. on 150 hp i run 59 real aggressive trail wieghts to 63gram aggressive wieghts with the same primary spring and secondary spring and just lighten up the helix angle. on the trail the 59 are faster reving but on a long lake pull i have to slow down for the thunder cats with the 63 grams. i like my engagement low so the sled can barley spin . right around 4000
get a radar for 125 dollars time what set up you have then switch back to stock and start making one change at a time.
nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
was the helix shaved were the snap ring sits? I do this to my helixes so they start at the tip of the helix.
now if you go from a 50/34 to a 52/34 with every thing else the same you will bring down your rpm
if you went with the silver spring you might have to run a 48/34 helix
there is now deffinent right or wrong. it is the tunners choice. most trail kits you buy will have a fly wieght that is the same or a little lighter in grams but more aggressive they sell you a primary spring that is real close to the stock and a helix with more start angle for a harder off the line pull.
i like to wieght my clutch were i can run the blue or silver polaris secondary spring and then find the right helix to let me get my rpm were it should be.
when i am in that range i have a lot of adjustability if you have to you a huge spring you have lost up shift and are losing power trying to spin the extra wieght. i would stay at the stock wieght and get aggressive. you can take you wieght to your dealer and they can pick out the next level of aggresive. put them in then change your primary to get the engagement rpm you want. now run it check high rpm if you are low get less helix or tighten the spring in the same helix. if you are real low or high than change springs.
for polaris i like polaris springs because you can get a chart from you dealer that show how they compare to each other. dont get big weights because you can say you run 62 and the 800 twin only runs 60. on 150 hp i run 59 real aggressive trail wieghts to 63gram aggressive wieghts with the same primary spring and secondary spring and just lighten up the helix angle. on the trail the 59 are faster reving but on a long lake pull i have to slow down for the thunder cats with the 63 grams. i like my engagement low so the sled can barley spin . right around 4000
get a radar for 125 dollars time what set up you have then switch back to stock and start making one change at a time.
nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
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2,729 Posts
does anyone know how to tell what parts are included in EPI's clutch kits....i think it would be cheaper for me to just buy the stuff individually.....lookin for my Triumph. but then again i see their kit for my sled has primary and secondary springs and a Helix. Any Ideas out there guys? Im in the process of installing 144 woody's gold diggers so im lookin for some giddy up and go out of the hole.
Polaris is my way out - Other people just use a door.
Polaris is my way out - Other people just use a door.
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8,842 Posts
the xlts liked a 20 tooth top sprocket to help them wake up what is epi clutch kit?
i could sell you one for about 150 that would do the same results as theres. if you install it and set it correctly and do see gains against a clock you can bring the sled to me and i would correct it for free. dont mess with the clutches until you have studded up and made all other drive system changes.
nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
i could sell you one for about 150 that would do the same results as theres. if you install it and set it correctly and do see gains against a clock you can bring the sled to me and i would correct it for free. dont mess with the clutches until you have studded up and made all other drive system changes.
nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
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