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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Double trouble[;)] I had to check the load capicity of my trailer to make sure it could handle these two behemoths.

/snofan/../images/users/pigboy/island lake feb - 2003000322.jpg

We were going to ride this river to get to some forest roads, but ran into some suspect ice. I wasn't going to be the first guy to try, so we turned around.

/snofan/../images/users/pigboy/island lake feb - 20030001.jpg

Some Jumping

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Yours truely[8D]

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Man are those XLT's powerfull, check out this track stand[:0]

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Oh oh. Too much jumping. Sway bar came out of the slot in which it sits inside the trailing arm. No idea how, as it did not budge at all by hand. Bent the bottom of the belly pan a bit. Final verdict is still out on any needed repairs.

/snofan/../images/users/pigboy/island lake feb - 20030011.jpg
 

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Great pics. Funny, I popped the sway bar out of my dad's 98 XC600 (extra-10) jumping it, although we were getting about 5' off the ground on a manmade jump (flat landing). I broke the riveted plastic guide it sits in through the bulkhead. $115 later it was fixed.

-Dean
 

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$115!?! You must of had it done at a shop. I replaced mine myself, the part was only $15-$20, and only took a half hour to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by ripperd2
[br]Great pics. Funny, I popped the sway bar out of my dad's 98 XC600 (extra-10) jumping it, although we were getting about 5' off the ground on a manmade jump (flat landing). I broke the riveted plastic guide it sits in through the bulkhead. $115 later it was fixed.

-Dean
Dean,

Do you remember what all was involved with the repair? Did the sway bar need to be replaced? We were wondering if it was, lets say, bent just a little, if it would affect the handling. Other then that, just get a new plastic guide, and rivat it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by Tfin70
[br]$115!?! You must of had it done at a shop. I replaced mine myself, the part was only $15-$20, and only took a half hour to replace.
Tflin,

The only thing needed then is a new guide, eh. How did you get the sway bar back in the trailing arm?
 

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I was also missing the little plastic piece (what the sway bar goes into) that fits into the groove in the trailing arm. But all I did was to drill out the rivets that hold the broken piece to the chassis and then you should be able to slide the sway bar back enough to expose the tip of it from the trailing arm. Then slide on the new plastic guide and put the tip of the sway bar back into the trailing arm FIRST, before you rivet the guide into the chassis. Be sure you have the guide facing the correct way. Thats it.

Oh, and great pic by the way!
 
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