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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After hearing my wife complain about her sled wearing her out the other day I rode it for a while. It darts around, and once in a while the rear will just kinda sway around a bit. The front shocks have very little preload, the limiter straps are turned up about 1", the rear scissor block is in the rear hole set on high I believe, and the torsion springs are set to the high setting because she says it will bottom once in a while, I wonder if its not the rear arm hitting the scissor block. It had 96 studs down the center, I do believe her carbides are getting worn also. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

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for the darting check both carbides and your ski toe in/out. your front should be toed in about 1/4" i believe is a standard measurement. your sled can also dart because of TOO much ski pressure, so you may have to tinker a little with the limiter strap as well as the preload with a new set of carbides on their to get the right setup for her. As for the bottoming issue, do you really believe she could be bottoming out? it may make more sense that she's just hearing or feeling the rear scissors hitting the stops.
 

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Im going through a similar problem with my 98 XCR 440. I just noticed yesterday I have a factory sticker on the belt guard on setting up the suspension based on rider weight. I will take a pic of it and post it, not sure if its any help... THe steering take a lot of effort on mine.
 

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Have you had the skis off? See which way the ski rubber is. I put my blocks so the high side is to the front. It greatly reduces the darting. You might have too much weight on the front. Try putting the RRSS on low allows a tad more transfer along with lowering the torsion springs to MED.
Your suspension should bottom out every now and then. IT means you are using the full travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It has just the pps shock in the rear, the other is the rydefx and is not adjustable. I will try lightening up the torsion springs and check the ski rubbers, thanks!
 

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Dumz1 said:
I remove the rear stops when I'm just trail riding on my xtra-10. If I'm going to ride hard and do some messing around I would put them back in
why??? so you can pull the front end up??
 

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xcr440 said:
Dumz1 said:
I remove the rear stops when I'm just trail riding on my xtra-10. If I'm going to ride hard and do some messing around I would put them back in
why??? so you can pull the front end up??
It made the ride much more softer, and easier to ride all day when trail riding. I noticed no difference on my sled w/ or w/o the rear blocks in and the ski's coming off the ground?

polaris1man said:
Dumz1 said:
I remove the rear stops when I'm just trail riding on my xtra-10. If I'm going to ride hard and do some messing around I would put them back in
And how's the rebuild going on the front end there????
it's all back together, and got about 600 miles on it since [thumb]
 

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I did it and skis were off the ground all the time. My bil removed his but he is a big boy(300lbs), He was bouncing off the block with the oem springs.
 

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xcr440 said:
I did it and skis were off the ground all the time. My bil removed his but he is a big boy(300lbs), He was bouncing off the block with the oem springs.
I think that was my problem as well, the smaller bumps while just crusing on the trails would spine me, so I removed the rears and that allowed the rear to move more.
 

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dtmmil said:
After hearing my wife complain about her sled wearing her out the other day I rode it for a while. It darts around, and once in a while the rear will just kinda sway around a bit. The front shocks have very little preload, the limiter straps are turned up about 1", the rear scissor block is in the rear hole set on high I believe, and the torsion springs are set to the high setting because she says it will bottom once in a while, I wonder if its not the rear arm hitting the scissor block. It had 96 studs down the center, I do believe her carbides are getting worn also. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
The darting and poor handling sounds like too much ski pressure to me. Basically everything in your rear suspension setup is causing more ski pressure. I would change one thing at a time, in this order. Keep changing until you get the best ride.

1. Let out your limiter strap.
2. Move your rear scissor to the middle hole.
3. Decrease your torsion spring pre-load.
4. Set your RRSS to a lower setting.

I don't think she's feeling the scissor hit the RRSS and mistaking that for bottoming. Especially with the RRSS in the rear hole and the RRSS set to high. As soon as she sits on it and touches the throttle, the scissor is probably already very close to the RRSS.

A previous poster was confused. Your skis should be slightly toed OUT.

I don't think worn carbides would cause your problem.
 

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brnr17 said:
for the darting check both carbides and your ski toe in/out. your front should be toed in about 1/4" i believe is a standard measurement.
As stated above, the skis should be toed OUT slightly, not in. Skis toed in will CAUSE darting and actually make the sled unsafe to ride. Giving someone advice to toe their skis in is very irresponsible.

This forum is just a wealth of misinformation.
 

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Easy guys, I think it was a typo. Ive seen his other posts and think he has enough smarts to know, toe in = fail. Easy off the coffee, er whatever, just a simple mistake in typing. [;)]
 

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old_school said:
This forum is just a wealth of misinformation.
You think just this site has misinformation[confused2] Go check out some other ones.

Give the guy some slack, maybe he mis typed. Very easy to do.[thumb]

Read every post then form your own opinion.[thumb]
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok, I just got done with her sled, I kinda through a lot at it, but I did make a couple changes before our last ride, so some is just going back to where it was.
I did
turned the ski rubbers around, boy that looks like it may make a difference in itself!!
Loosened up the limiter straps to about 1/4" of threads from 1"
turned the rear scissor blocks to a lower setting
turned the torsion spring block to med.
Checked the toe, there is about 1/8" toe out at the front and rear of the steel ski saddle
The carbides look decent still, but are wearing faster in the front than the rear, so thats why I moved the rubber in the ski.

http://www.bergstromskegs.com/oui/darting_solutions.htm
I looked in here also, lots of good info, I may check into the ski savers and the shims for the rubbers also. thanks for the input, I will post results, maybe it will help someone else also!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok, so I checked the rubbers on my sled, the previous owner changed one of them out, so one is way thicker, and the other doesn't have the little steel bracket under it, no wonder when I lifted the front of mine up the skis sat funny! Looks like I need to get some new ones!
 

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not all of them used the aluminum shim. None of mine have them.

I got a set, there yours if ya want them??
 
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