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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i bought a rmk and am rebuilding it, and to my suprise when i opened the hood it had khein carbs vs the mkunis the rest of our sleds have, so i am in unfamailar territory and wondering how u get them reset i have no idea where they are at now the sled does run but not exactly right, also if you could tell me where you want a sled idling at
 

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Thanks for the vagueness... What year RMK? what engine size?
It's not rare for the 1999+ sleds to have Keihin carbs, Mikunis were pretty old school by then.
A sled should Idle at whatever speed sounds healthy. My XC 500 idles at 1000 rpm and runs and sounds like a dream with zero bog. My XC 440 idles at 1000 rpm and runs like sh*t with a terrible bog. Usually Polaris sleds are suppose to idle around 1500-1700 rpm, but look at the sticker under the hood, it should have all the factory stock settings when it comes to needle position, jet size, idle speed.
 

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dodgetruck2 said:
i bought a rmk and am rebuilding it, and to my suprise when i opened the hood it had khein carbs vs the mkunis the rest of our sleds have, so i am in unfamailar territory and wondering how u get them reset i have no idea where they are at now the sled does run but not exactly right, also if you could tell me where you want a sled idling at
If the sled is the '99 RMK700 you have, let me know, I've got the '99 Shop Manual for spec's on the carbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
its is that one sorry bout that thought u would see it in my signature, and do u have one of those shop manuals to sell me i have been tryin to find one
 

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Here is your shop manual,
and lots of others.

http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic/102341/display.aspx

Polaris had round slide Mikunis through 1996
1997 - 2000 had the kehein carbs on their twins.
Then in 2001, Polaris went to rack style mikunis,
In 2002, they went a step further and went with rack style Mikunis with both fuel and air adjust screws
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i would like to switch 2 mkunis because i have more experience with them but my budget on the rebuild is almost used up so until i decide to go way over board on this project no unnecasry changes will be made, but thanks for the idea and which carbs 2 use[thumb]

and also thanks for the shop manual link, but looks like he skipped 1999 and 2000 ill keep readint though
 

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dodgetruck2 said:
i would like to switch 2 mkunis because i have more experience with them but my budget on the rebuild is almost used up so until i decide to go way over board on this project no unnecasry changes will be made, but thanks for the idea and which carbs 2 use[thumb]

and also thanks for the shop manual link, but looks like he skipped 1999 and 2000 ill keep readint though
You don't have to throw your money away at Mikuni carbs. Keihn carbs are fairly easy to tune and get respectable results from. Stock set up on elevation 1800-2700 ft on a 1999 RMK 700 with temp range +10-40F:

main jets-190
Pilot-48
needle-R1368G #2 clip
Air screw 1 turn out

Recommend a burp/boost bottle, sold by SLP, HSP, etc.

You will want to play with the main jet a bit, I go down on jets as low as 172 but only due to temps and elevation changes. You will find 180-185 will keep your thumb throttle plenty happy, and air jet may be out 1.25-1.5 turns. I don't know your elevation, but let me know
 

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dodgetruck2 said:
but looks like he skipped 1999 and 2000 ill keep readint though
The same specs from the 98 RMK 700 will apply. (same motor, carbs, and pipe etc)

I wouldn't bother with switching over to Micunis either.
Those stock 39mm keheins are just fine once tuned to your elevation and riding temp.
While I think boost bottles are a waste of money for MOST applications,
the Kehein carbed Polaris twins do see some good results from them, especially when it comes to throttle responce.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i am about 1400 for most of my riding but once a year we venture to 5000+
riding in -20-+40F , i check them out they are runnin 185 mains not sure on the pilots, the previous owner was only 100 miles northeast of me so should be pretty simialar conditions

also it has an altitude compensator not sure if they all do or not

will any boost bottle work?

and thanks i will download that manual then
 

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Your ACCS should be good for 3 jet changes, so those 185's are a excellent starting spot to dial the carbs in. Your ACCS if working properly will do the rest, and according to your avatar you have a "vari-flow" on it also?? (1999 Polaris 700 RMK INDY IFS Xtra-10 Vari-Flow 136" <- Latest Rebuild Project If you have any left front suspension parts for sale drop me a line [email protected])
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
sorry i must not have been thinking when i wrote that our 02 has vari-flow the 99 just has the acc
 

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Tha bad thing about the Keihin Carbs is the hole for the float pin gets hogged out and if it gets bad enough the carb is junk.
 

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Riley said:
Tha bad thing about the Keihin Carbs is the hole for the float pin gets hogged out and if it gets bad enough the carb is junk.
Swap them damn things out for the 2000 RMK/SKS carb models. Have the ends on them
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok which screw is the air adjust screw and which is the fuel, i can only find one and its on the up left area and its got a black knob on it
 

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The keihin carbs do not have fuel screws, the black knobs you are referring to are the idle screws, the air screw are small brass slot headed screws below the idle screws, turn them all the way in until lightly seated, then back them out 1 full turn each, test for throttle response and then adjust accordingly in or out 1/8 of a turn at a time until it responds the best, in is richer (less air) out is leaner (more air), current outside air temperature will affect this also so the sled may not run the same if its 80 degrees out right now vs. 20 degrees on a winter day so keep this in mind, this also applies with the idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok thanks, i wouldnt normally worry bout it till it cools down but i am thinkin about doin a grass drag with it so i wana get it sets for the warmer temps
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well i just took it for a test run on a 200ft run in the back yard and it seems to bog (not badly because it lifts the front way up) till the 100ft mark, then it takes of and leaves u at the 100ft stake, (no i did not actually fall off)
 

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Bog is lean off of the bottom.
Either try a 1/8 turn richer,
OR
1 size larger pilot.

Do the fuel screw first,
if that fixes it, good.
If not that, or close to that,
I'd then put it back and go the larger pilot jet.

It's hot out now, making you run richer,
so that "little lean" now could be a melt down in the middle of Jan on a cold day.
Richer is safer,
Plugs are cheap, motors are not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well the bog seem to be out but still stumbles on its self when under full throttle acceleration, but then cleans out after about 50ft
 
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