adjusting track pitch
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are you talking about the angle from the front shaft to the ground? normally when they talk about pitch they are talking about the distance between lugs , 3 pitch being 3inches between lug or a 2.52 pitch being just that 2.52 inches between lugs. if you are talking about the angle thing then you adjust the front of your skid , normally with the limiter strap, only other way i know is to do a drop&roll on the chain case & shafts,
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I have a re-drilled hole in mine. where the suspension bolt in the front comes through the tunnel I drilled a hole about an inch strait down. this will lower the front of the skid frame down about an inch. I did mine to keep more of my track on the ground for ice drags. I am not sure what kind of angle you would want for powder...
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if you mean the angle of attack or the track angle i would try to get down to 17 degrees that gets you on top of powder nicely. to achieve this angle u you do a drop and roll, or you can go up a track size then use your existing skid and just move it back. ie using 151 track but a skid made for a 144.
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This is APROACH ANGLE and not PITCH that you are talking about then.
The PM I answered, You asked about track pitch, and so you didn't get the answer that you were looking for.
Drop and roll is the best way for this (only way to do it RIGHT as well, IMO)
If you just move your skid back as mentioned above (don't do this), it won't transfer the same and won't work as well as it should.
Moving the shock and spring position even a little does have a big affect on how it will feel and act.
The PM I answered, You asked about track pitch, and so you didn't get the answer that you were looking for.
Drop and roll is the best way for this (only way to do it RIGHT as well, IMO)
If you just move your skid back as mentioned above (don't do this), it won't transfer the same and won't work as well as it should.
Moving the shock and spring position even a little does have a big affect on how it will feel and act.
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i have seen the skid moved back on a sled before and it seemed to work great. can u please explain a bit more as to why not to do this. im not trying to argue i just would like to know
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
usually a suspension is moved back because a person put a little longer track in the sled, and instead of putting rail extensions in they would move the suspension back. This will change the way your sled transfers its wieght, but depending on how you move the skid back would give the sled alittle better aproach angle.
As studentdriver said, the best way is a drop and role and run the biggest drivers you can.
usually a suspension is moved back because a person put a little longer track in the sled, and instead of putting rail extensions in they would move the suspension back. This will change the way your sled transfers its wieght, but depending on how you move the skid back would give the sled alittle better aproach angle.
As studentdriver said, the best way is a drop and role and run the biggest drivers you can.
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It probably affects the front shock more so, because it is normally more forward and so it's normally holding more weight.
Move it back and it should be like running no limiter strap.
It will also affect where the sled pivots when it does transfer.
Not too sure how that part will affect the handeling, but I'm sure that it will.
It might work in straight powder as long as you can stay on top of the snow, but then I think it will trench like no other once it gets bad.
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