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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, let me say, this is my first post, as you can tell. But definitely won't be the last. I've been watching this site for a few months now. I find more helpful information here than anywhere else. So, my question is, I have a 2002 Arctic Cat ZR800 Cross Country and I'm wanting to rebuild the primary clutch. Can I remove the primary without having to pull the belly pan? I know I need a puller and also a special spider nut removal tool. I just would really like to pull it and work on it on my workbench and not in the sled. My other concern is, putting it back on if I can remove it. I see these special clutch alignment tools which kind of scare me. Me being an average Joe, not knowing how to align it. Is it something if I bought the right alignment tool that I could figure it out? I really appreciate all the help I hope to receive regarding this. Thanks so much,
Shawn[8D]
 

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Yeah, you don't need to remove the pan. there should be a hole in teh side that lines up with the primary bolt, you need to unscrew that bolt, then insert a special clutch tool and tighten it, and it pops the clutch off the crank. You will need a jam nut tool, and a spider holder AFAIK (as far as i know). If all your pulling is your primary, you don't need to worry about alignment. Just make sure any shims that come off, go back on in the same locations.

-Dean
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ripperd2, thanks for the quick reply. Where else on the net can you find help like this in June? First question, what is a spider holder? And I did pull the secondary first because that was easy to do so I figured I would rebuild or at least clean it up also. So does that mean I should buy the alignment tool? Thanks again for the quick response. I'm glad to see other people are still into snowmobiling in the summer months and care about helping other people.
Shawn
 

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The only reason I can think of that you would need to align your clutches (especially on a new 02 sled) is if you removed the engine. The two alignment measurements are center to center (from the center of the primary clutch bolt to the center of the secondary clutch bolt) and off set (the distance between the outside of the inside secondary sheave, and the outside of the inside primary sheave......if you can follow that [;)] )

You would only need to adjust the center to center alignment if you removed the engine, or got into an accident (again on a new sled). Or on an older sled the center to center might need to be adjusted due to use over time.

Like ripperd2 said if you make sure you put any spacer washers back on in the order they came off, your off set alignment should be fine.
 

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^^^what he said.

And the spider holder isn't the right word, i couldn't think of it. Basically it's a grunt tool, something that you can turn the spider with safely without hurting the spider.

here is what it looks like for a polaris:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys for the great information and help. Now I'm not so afraid of ripping this thing apart. At the end of last year, I ran into a problem with the primary locking up and had to bust it lose with a 2 x 4, so I think it's definitely time to take it apart and rebuild it. Thanks to all that have helped.
Shawn
 

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Sorry no help from me but Welcome to TUSF! (The ULTIMATE Snowmobile Forum) Have fun posting and stick around, it gets interesting in winter.
 

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I know this is the time of year to do this sort of thing, but it just sounds like it's dried out and needs some clutch lube.

I'd go get some from Cat and try that first.
BUT...I certainly see where if you have the time and guts to do it now while we all wait for snow, is a good idea.

Lube her up on assembly though...good luck & welcome to TUSF.
 

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Being that it's a 2002 I cannot see that you would need to rebuild it, unless there is a major problem with it and if there is that should be a warrenty problem.
We have raced full seasons and taken many primarys apart, in fact I still have a spare in the trailer that has many many miles on it without a rebuild and it's still tight as hell. I just can't see why you would need a rebuild on yours yet, but at least you came to the right place to get information on doing it.

The tools you need would be socket to get the clutch bolt out, then a puller which is basically a long bolt that threads into the clutch and bottoms on the crank end and as you tighten the bolt it pushes the clutch off the crank. Then once you got it off you would take the cover off which requires a #20 torx bit I think? but I'm not positive. Take the 8 bolts out and remember to keep pressure on the cover because the spring is gonna want to push the cover off and also the upper sheave will drop as you loosen the bolts. Once you get the cover off, take the spring out and you will see a big nut which you need to get off, and then you need the grunt tool which is a holder for the clutch body and a spanner wrench for the spider. The spider is loctited on there usually with green so you need to heat it well to loosen the loctite. With the grunt tool the spidier will come off. Take note of where every thing goes, and especially the number of washers under the spider as that has a big effect on how your clutch works.
After that it's pretty much reverse the order to put it together. Remember to reloctite the spider with green

I think those directions work.

Rocket
 

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How many miles are on the clutch? If it has under 4000 miles I would not take the spyder off because you are taking a chance that the threads on the inner scheth will strip which they do sometimes, I am a sled mechanic and have seen this happen may times. I would only put a new spring in it, re-bush the weights and change the pins. Arctic Cat clutches a notorius for the clutch pins and bushings wearing quickly. I compleetly rebuilt the primary on my Arctic Cat this winter (bushings, pins, spring) and after 800 miles I had to rebuild it again because the bushings egged out and the weights shifted and chewed the spyder.
 

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I must be hard on equipment cuz I've never gotten 2000 miles out of a Cat clutch. Also the manual sez go over the clutch every 1000 miles and replace worn parts. and how can you replace the buttons and rollers without removing the spider? Now granted the flyweight bushings are the weak point, but if don't pay close attention you'll be up Snow Creek without a paddle. And since we are on the subject Why don't AC clutches last as long as the others???
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This website is really amazing. I go away for a few days and I come back to all this helpful information that I would have never expected this kind of response in June of all months. I can't tell you guys how much I appreciate all the help you have been regarding this. I really like tinkering with things, so I am most likely going to go ahead and buy the proper tools so I can take this thing off and inspect it and replace anything that needs replacing, if anything. Plus I have nothing else to do this summer since I can't go riding, and I think it would be a great learning experience. I have plenty more questions regarding other subjects, I just don't want to be greedy since I'm a newby to the page. But I'll be here for a long while, so I have plenty of time to ask. Thanks again for all your help.
Shawn
 

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Ask all the questions you can, cause the forum is very slow right now. Gives me something to do other than homework...[:D]
 

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it's cheaper to just get the tools and do it yourself, rather than taking it to a shop anyway....
 

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thats one thing im doing this summer is going thru my clutches on my zr since i dont know how hard it was ridden from the guy i got it from.mine does have a blackmagic clutch kit in it but how well it was maintained i dont know. but now that i own it it is babied
 
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