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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i hope some one can shed some light on my problem just recently installed 92,650efi into my 96rmk chasesis first trip out ran hard unbelievable torque WOW , srcond trip battery good 20 min into started to backfire and no top end seems to idle fine sounds like may be clutch side cylinder back fireing ,any ideas new to this efi just cant give up to much torqe to to quite yet any help or ideas would be appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i did not see any with ignition on or off or running at idle dont have acess to spec book to check all relays and sensors for volts and amps but throttle is resposive when parked when go to ride backnot so good
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
double cheked comp by disconecting air temp sensor and comp displayed one long, three short for #13 i beleave this code is correct for this sensor so comp seems to be working took for quick trip started to back fire right away at high rpm could it be tpsmay be over fueling
 

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Sounds more engine or CDI ignition related to me. My brothers CDI went out on his 650 and it acted similar except he had difficulties even starting it after a while. Also, are the plugs fresh are you sure you aren't fouling them off? Also I'd check to make sure the piston skirts are in good shape on the intake side.
 

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Just before you go crazy disconnect the kill switches i had a machine that would sputter on high end it was a bad ignition switch also had the throttle kill go and it will idle but as soon as you give it gas it cuts out. Sounds ignition related but if you can't find a problem there maybe a bad fuel pressure regulator.
 

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I had similar problems on one, once, turned out to be the connections on the coils were a little loose. Took them all off and squeezed them a little bit and made sure they all fit goodntite and away I went. The spark plug wires on there are also prone to causing problems if they get old, they just screw on to the studs and can sometimes go weak, cut them off an inch or so and rescrew em. Same with the spark plug end, not a bad idea to replace the spark plug covers either.

Those RXL's are extra finicky on the electrical system being in tip top shape. The batteries also have to have a 11.3v's or more in order to work right.

I don't know how many times we've pulled back an RXL, finally got smart and starting converting them all to 38mm carbs, problems solved.
 

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That's with the motor running. Battery voltage alone needs to be 11.3v or higher.

Seems you think I don't know anything about these?

Edit: !
 

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Sorry dude, 12.2 or the relays don't engage. Trust me I had a battery that read 11.9 and didn't flip the relays. And no, you probably know quite a bit. I like the info to be accurate.
 

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Oh, okay. All 4 of mine must have had "special" relays that would open on batteries under 12v's, that explains it.

Anyway, Rocky, let us know if you come up with anything.
 

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4 sale, 1 set of special relays that will allow your sled to start on 11.5v's.[:D]

Take a seat? What makes you right and me wrong? I know what I've got too. Bottom line is, you need a good battery for these to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
first off this little beast is built to go in to the mountians light fast and no carbs to re jet ,so carbs not an option,ive read up on all kinds of diff problems that people have had so here is what ive checked so far volts 12.26 when motor running , TPS reads 5.2 ohms between red and black at idle and wot i believe this is not correct so is it possible for comp to go in to safe mode and over fuel cylinders ? CDI box new i have even put extra ground staps in case one breaks off .
 

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1st the Rxl WILL start if the battery is at least 10 volts or better. Just have to hold the throttle wide open. And it is 12.2 if i have to i can scan the original polaris factory manual.

2nd rocky did you check what i told you. The tps isn't that far off, if i can remember but i could be wrong. Also what do the plugs look like. I would be checking fuel maybe you clogged a injector or like i said bad regulator.
 

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God, I forget which wires you need to measure between because the TPS is just a potentiometer basically, but I'd try the other two wires, I bet black is ground and your reading all of the resistor.

Try between Red and white and see what you get.
 

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Originally posted by Triple650Indy
[br]My digital multimeter. [;)]
So I guess my select monitor was wrong?

To check the TPS with an Ohmmeter:
1. Disconnect sensor lead
2. Connect Ohmmeter to terminals in sensor connector
3. Operate throttle while reading with Ohmmeter. Ohmmeter should indicate 400-700 ohms at idle. Ohmmeter should indicate approximately 4.5k ohms with throttle wide open.

Should have unflucuating increase or decrease when throttle is open or closed.

The wires going into the TPS are prone to breaking right at the body or close to it, inspect them.

There is a "fail safe" mode in those computers and if something goes wrong it will do that, there are other things like I've mentioned before that can cause that also.

Mine was meant for the mountains too... still is, only with carbs.[attachment=48724]
 

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if the tps was bad it would be causing his problem but it isn't the computer isn't throwing any codes. If that was the problem the computer would throw the code. I would bet it is a mechanical or ignition problem. Remember the efi does not control the ignition. just the fuel delivery.
 
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