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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 1995 XLT Special(XTRA-12), needs an engine rebuild. How extreme can I go? It looks like the SLP pipes and heads seem to be the hot ticket, so I planned on going with them.
I've also got an XTRA-10 rear skid...should I use that over the XTRA-12? I'm looking to put extensions on it for use of a 136"x1.75" track.
My questions are:
--Should anything be done to the front suspension? I saw a big debate about the sway bar.
--Do I want the triple-triple pipes, or just the triple pipes with a silencer...what type of silencer is best?
--With the 1.75" lugs, does the crank case have to be dropped/rolled?
--The hood is pretty cracked up, should I just go with another stock hood, or is there something aftermarket that would be best for weight savings?
--What type of skiis has everyone had the best luck with?
--Is there anything that I am overlooking or missed?

The sled will still be used for a little bit of trail, but not much. I'd say about 85%/15% off-trail/trial. Not to mention that I don't mind putting in high quality components, don't want to have to pay in the long run for cheap crap in the middle of nowhere.

Thanks a lot for your guys' help...I've been reading the forums here for a while now, but finally got the itch to join with the growing respect that I have for the knowledge and experience that you guys have and don't seem to mind sharing.
 

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first off a 136 -1.25 is what you would want. I had a 1.75 track and hated it. it was great off trail but as soon as you got on a trail you were burning hyfaxes. with a 135 1.25 you will be able to go through soooo much more snow than a 121 it isnt even funny. leave the sway bar in. with the pipes, skis, hood wieght loss, there will be no problem side hilling or tipping the sled in powder.

I would go with the exta 10 personally. fast on the trail adjustments. you can loosen or tighten the limiter straps in a few minutes on the trail to change ski pressure for powder. on the 12 you almost need a second person to do it fast on the trail. the 10 is more big bump capable. the 12 was designed for a trail sled that hits a big bump. the 10 is a more aggressive skid. you wont break it going out to 136.
for a replacement hood go with the mountain fit hoods. 200 dollars for a black one shipped to you. wieghs about 6 lbs. very easy to fit on the sled. just cut on the line and put in your guages and drill some vent holes. very easy to do. huge wieght loss.

I can get most of the skis out there. c,a skis up to the slp slt ski. if you have steel now you will see about a 13-15 lbs of weight loss with the starting line straight line tracker ski. it is a lot nicer ski than the c,a skis. little more money but very well worth it. they have a 2 position mounting system that you can setup for on/off trail. or for aggressive on hard trail only. have had very good results with them.

for pipes I can get slp and aaen. I like the aaen pipes better than the slp because of the silencer design. there is no can like slp. just the 3 pipes. the silencers are built into the pipe. ultra light wieght as well.

a regear with my clutching would really help for off trail riding. who is doing the engine? there is a lot of work that can be done on them to find another good jump in hp to compliment the pipes. for not much more money. well at my prices any how!! lol.

how far from the twin cities are you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So, do you think that XTRA-12 is worth anything? Is it worth trying to sell? As far as the engine work goes, I'll be doing it myself. I'm not new to rebuilding engines, just not so much two-strokers. I planned on just the wiseco forged hi-perf pistons, and just a little exhaust porting, not to mention the aftermarket heads, and updating the crank by re-drilling the oiling holes. I've heard nothing but bad on putting pipes on stock engines/cranks, I think that should do it for engine work...didn't want to go too nuts on it.
As far as clutching goes, I'm actually not sure what to do yet...I like researching that type of stuff to death, then doing it myself...or have someone do it and whatch over their shoulder...I like learning.
As far as the skiis go, I already updated to the Polaris composite skiis, I just thought it would need something a little wider for off trail performance.
I actually won't start building the sled untill next spring, but I'd like to get all the parts that I need then start putting it together...that way, if it needs something else, it would be easier to justify sticking the money toward.
I live in Mequon, which is about 20 minutes north of Milwaukee, but I go sleding up near Tomahawk,WI and often go to Northern Michigan for a little off trail riding near the Porcupine Mtns. Mequon is 5.25hrs from the Twins, and Tomahawk(actually Tripoli,WI) is about two hours from the Twins. I drive a tractor/trailer, and I go to Shakopee, MN about once a month.
Thanks for all yer input, I'm always looking to learn a thing or two to make stuff better.
What is all involved in rolling the chaincase? I've read a little about it once, is this what I have to do for the track clearance, or is the 1.25" lug track going to clear?
 

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dont go hog wild on the exhaust port. and there is a lot of little stuff on the top of the case and the bottom of the monoblock to clean up on that motor. go with the slp heads. if nothing else I would have the crank welded and trued. it will be eaiser to drop a size in drivers than to mess with chain case rolling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow, Yer starting to make this sound easier than it already is...thanks madcow. We should really ride sometime...I'd like to get up to Northern MN sometime. Do you ride trails? As of right now thats all I have is a trail machine right now. PM me if your interested.
Thanks.
 

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You have the SP model wich has the really wide front end.
Get upper and lower radius rods and Heim joints from a 2000 RMK
You will have a 38" ski stance and lose about 8 pounds going from steel to aluminum at a cost of about $200.

You will be able to keep your sway bar in for trail riding and with the narrow ski stance, it will also be easier to throw it over in the powder.

That is, unless you don't want to ride trail.
If that's the case, do as mentioned above,
and remove sway bar too.
Don't forget to tighten up the front preload as the sway bar removal makes it softer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, that was my concern too regarding the front end...after it's modification, it's only going to see a little bit of trail. My buddy that I'll be riding with rides a '04 renegade 800, so I'll still be keeping up(if not still passing him) on the trail, without a sway bar. We both have trail machines, so I don't plan on making the XLT too trailworthy any more.
But with the narrow ski stance, wouldn't I have to run a different sway bar seeing how it will be narrowed? Has anyone tried making thier own radius rods? I'm car chief of a race car and I've got easy access to chromoly tube steel(looks about the same dia. of the steering rod) and heim ends...is this worth the "try doing it yerself" process, or just buy the rods off of a '00 RMK?
 

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Could maybe build your own.
Make sure you get the strength right as bad things happen when radius rods break.

Sway bar replacement?
no, save some money.
You are only coming an inch and a half or so on each side.
Cut the ends off with a band or hack saw, and take the sharp edges off with a diagrinder.
 

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I seen some 2000 RMK radius rods on Ebay the other day probably could get them cheap. They had not been bid on as of yesterday and started out at .01. Search Polaris 700 RMK and they will come up!
 

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you should come on the group ride in mn. on the 26th
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey madcow, could you get me some catalog prices for a couple of part #'s out of the AAEN catalog? I tried the site, and I keep getting a error message when trying to contact. The #'s are: PIP 10548; and PIP 10660. thanks. I'll have to check my schedule for the 26th...where are you guys riding?
BigJohnson, thanks for the headsup...I think I will buy rather than build my own.
Thank you everyone very much for your help...it's very much appreciated...I knew I joined this forum for a reason. The start of the buildup will probably begin in late feb., early March...I'll keep you guys posted.
 

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the single pipe is retail 399. I sell it for 359.
the triple pipes are retail for 699. I sell them for 600.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Again, can't thank you enough madcow. What type of coating is on them pipes...or is that just an advertisement scheme(the light blue). What type of group are you riding with? Where do you guys go? Is anyone invited? I'm pretty interested in headin' out that way...just need some more information. I'll keep in touch with you about the pipes.
thanks.
 

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I believe that blue is his color. I can ask.

go to forums and look for minnesota group ride. I believe someone has room in a cabin avaliable.
 
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