[mopar_geoff]

Hello!!

I need a new track bad for my 95 indy 500 and was wondering what is the biggest track size (Paddle size) I can fit in that machine with or without studs. Also does anyone know of a great performing track for that machine. I would like to have an aggressive track.

Thanks!!

 

[Polaris_Parts_MN]

I'd say an Inch and a eighth is the largest (1.125"). you might be able to get an 1.25" but it would be close. You wouldn't be able to run studs on these tracks. (studs have to be longer than the lug, and your tunnel and front heat exchanger would show severe damage).
You could also go to an even longer lug if you roll the chaincase, etc. In my eyes it's more effort than it's worth.

Unless you ride exclusively powder, paddletrack lugs will just get destroyed by trails. The 1.25" is the largest that is still trail-friendly.

 

[98700xc]

What do you think P P M, how about a 1 inch camo predator with 96 1.075's up the middle, that sounds like it would be perfect for that 95 Indy 500, no notching involved, or having to put in bulk head protectors, the main factor I look at is by sled calendar years it has seen 16 seasons, 2011 being #17, like you have said in many of your posts its not worth the time and money modding a sled that is that old, you could sell the sled and take the money that was going to be spent and buy something newer that is already setup.

 

[mopar_geoff]

What do u mean by rolling the chain case? If I can get at least a 1'' with studs without any issues i would be happy but if I can go a little larger without studs I would rather do that. I just want something that will grab good in the powder and hardpack. I did swap a M-10 suspension into my machine but it hasn't really effected the front clearance.

 

[Polaris_Parts_MN]

I think 1" with 1.075 studs would be fine. Using tunnel protectors is a must.

Rolling the chaincase is literally "rolling" the case about the pivot of the jackshaft axis. This moves the driveshaft axis further away from the front heat exchanger. More clearance at the front exchange allows for larger lugs. These are usually sold in kits I believe.
On the inside of the top of the tunnel, more clearance can be gained by lowering the suspension mountoing holes.

geoff, I kind of feel the same way as you. I refuse to run studs, but I would love the extra traction in the hardpack. So I run a slightly longer lug and increase the weight transfer of the rear suspension for more grip- and even there I sacfrice ride firmness. It is tough to get a set up that will be good in both hardpack and powder. You will have to pick one or the other, or compromise in the middle with a track that is mediocre in both conditions.

You will learn that sleds come from the factory with neutral settings and setup to accomodate most riders, and that any adjustments and most modifications result in a trade-off of something else.